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Best Way Forward (Inner Wings, Full Front, Doors, Etc)


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#1 frankm

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Posted 28 February 2017 - 12:06 PM

Hello everyone,

 

I started with my mini after it is been in storage for 8 years or so.

I need to replace a lot of panels and i wondered what was the best way to go forward.

I decided that i was going to attack the front end first.

I'm replacing both inner wings, wings, front, scuttle, door steps, front floors, sills, a panels, bulkhead cross member, upper dash rail, door skins and possible more.

 

since the bulkhead wasn't in pristine condition and i decided a long time ago that it would be a good idea to weld up all the holes (which is obviously not) I'm trying to get that done first before ordering a mahoosive amount of panels.

I removed the NS inner wing, A panel and part of the NS cross member the last couple of weeks. After that i tried to fit the new (heritage) upper dash rail to see what i was missing from the bulkhead to get that fixed.

It didn't fit that well and i have an uneven gap to the top of the windscreen surround (most of it is 420 mm wide narrowing down to 413 mm) from the dash rail. Can anybody confirm what the actual width needs to be? 

 

After fixing the bulkhead my plan was to leave the floors and doorsteps in place and offer up the inner wings and scuttle together with wings, front and bonnet to get these into place.

I'm not really sure on this approach because there is some work to do to the inner a posts? and the upper and lower end of the flitch panel? See pictures attached for the current state.

 

Any advise would be much appreciated!  

 

6E95CF21-DE63-4D28-8DDD-83DDB4D622CF_zps

 

This is what i started with after 8 years in use as a bin...

 

0E2B5642-5E1C-4263-B817-7F7B769B60A3_zps

 

I think i miss a section that runs from the a post to the bulkhead which is dsandwiched between the dash rail and the scuttle. Looked thru lots of projects but can't find a decent picture that shows exactly what it should look like and how it is attached to the a post.....

 

E508B23E-9F57-4DAF-92A2-49FA68CA72B2_zps

 

ADE45E2A-CDE6-4915-BA4B-5E09CBE7DEAE_zps

 

0F022181-3D82-432B-B9D0-C8BA099D3188_zps

 

72DEF21B-BC15-4439-86B4-D0B07735B80F_zps

 

 



#2 domdee

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Posted 28 February 2017 - 12:30 PM

before you chop anymore metal out, id add some bracing bars to keep it rigid.



#3 frankm

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Posted 28 February 2017 - 09:11 PM

Good point. But at the moment i didn't see the need to brace the shell since the sills and floors stay in place until i have the front end replaced.

I thought it only needed bracing when i would cut the floor, sills and doorsteps out. If I'm wrong let me know!



#4 domdee

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Posted 01 March 2017 - 12:31 PM

Its just a thought



#5 tiger99

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Posted 01 March 2017 - 12:40 PM

I would always have a SOLIDLY MOUNTED subframe in place when doing front end work. (Rubber mounts are utterly useless for that purpose, or anything else!) It may have to come out from time to time to weld in some areas but it will help to keep things in shape.

I would also brace the door apertures because although the sills may be in place, the important junctions between sill, floor and bulkhead are going to be disturbed. Better to waste half an hour and a few bits of box section bracing than to ruin the shell by having it twist or sag.

#6 Shifty

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Posted 01 March 2017 - 01:06 PM

I always start in the middle, boot and finally front end.

#7 ger

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Posted 03 March 2017 - 07:44 AM

+1 for what Shifty said. Thats the way I did The Tart



#8 lawrence

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Posted 03 March 2017 - 10:27 AM

Same as shifty. Floor, hidden and can hide welds. Boot your getting better. Front, panel gaps etc have to be good

#9 frankm

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 07:43 AM

Everybody thanks for their comments and suggestions.

I ordered 12 meters of box section so i can brace the shell. 

At the moment i'm (trying to) repairing the bulkhead so i can practice my panel beating skills.

 

Once the box section is in i will start cutting the sills out and the front floor.  

 

First bit of new metal is on the car! 

 

8D26D67F-ED5B-4023-813A-25A36AED9F97_zps


Edited by frankm, 23 March 2017 - 07:45 AM.


#10 elliot341

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 09:03 AM

Do either of these photos assist?

 

20160831_210118_zpsy4rlzi6z.jpg

 

20160831_210202_zpssbljb16l.jpg



#11 frankm

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 09:35 AM

Not quite your inner wing is in the way :mmkay: , I've circled the specific section in black. 

Do i need to build this up as the red lines show or does it need to be even bigger?

Since the other side is just as rotten away i have nothing to compare..... 

 

 

Missing%20section_zpsec9pgvf5.jpg


Edited by frankm, 23 March 2017 - 09:38 AM.


#12 jwbmini

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Posted 25 March 2017 - 10:52 PM

hey buddy i have some pictures for you as i have the front end off mine atm 

20170221_162146_zpsc2sgxe1y.jpg

 

20170111_174425_zpscyo1oxsm.jpg

20161122_134422_zps57pg6ai7.jpg

20161122_134412_zpsqs4b1ewh.jpg

 

 

hope this helps buddy

 

jack


Edited by jwbmini, 25 March 2017 - 11:00 PM.


#13 frankm

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Posted 29 March 2017 - 05:35 AM

Cheers mate, but still the inner wing is a bit in the way of the section i'm after. 

I might have to find somebody that is scrapping a car near by so i can take a look and get the left hand side of the bulkhead since mine is gone in that area.  

 

Regarding the floor, i have set my mind on a full floor replacement. Need to investigate a bit though as there are a few different types around.



#14 tiger99

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 07:04 PM

Well, there are only 2 suppliers of floors of adequate quality, and that is Heritage and M-Machine if that helps to narrow it down a bit. Please ignore the others.

The differences, for which the choice is determined already, are which gearchange and tunnel shape fit the existing mechanicals and whether you need the pressings for the fuel injection pipework.

You may also want a full assembly of floor, seat crossmember and heelboard, possibly with outer sills.

Hopefully that will reduce your number of choices somewhat.




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