13 replies to this topic

[djsao]

I'm having some issues with my minis immobiliser/alarm.

Lately it has been harder and harder to disable the immobiliser, and the last time I tried it took 2 hours of reconnecting the key fob, changing the battery, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery of the car and just hoping for the blinking red light to turn off.

Also it seams like the sensor in the driver door is faulty, it only enables the immobiliser if the weather is damp. Which is actually good, so it doesn't always turn on. (The sensor in the passenger door is working good)

I really like the alarm function, so would like to keep the immobiliser too. But can't trust the car when it's like this.

I have another mini I could take some parts from, but am not sure about the state of the ecu on it, since it had some problems before it was crashed.

Is there any simple fix or something I could try to make it more stable? I removed the radio and it looks like the immobiliser box has been slightly moved from where it should be, so maybe someone tampered with it?

The car is a 1998 mini rover 1.3 mpi.

[Steve220]

First off, the sensor for the fob isn't in the door. It's behind the dash in that black box 5AS unit).
Secondly I think the battery in your fob may need changing if not then the fob itself may need replacing. To change the battery in the fob you'll need to click the immobiliser off then remove the old battery then push the buttons for 5 seconds to drain the capacitor. Put the new battery in then click lock then unlock.

Edited by Steve220, 12 March 2017 - 06:39 PM.

[tmsmini]

Perhaps nomenclature is a little different, but I do believe that there are switches in the doors, boot and bonnet that are used by the 5AS.

These usually prevent the arming of the system.

 

I would have to check the wiring diagram to confirm that though.

 

The switches in the fob do go bad after awhile and i have one that seems to need re-syncing everyother day even though the battery is good.

Terry

[djsao]

Sorry, I think I meant switches in the doors.

Tried changing the battery in the fob several times and re-syncing it. Syncing worked the first few times, but not anymore.

Maybe I need a new fob then. Just need to be sure before I spend a lot of money sending everything in.

[FlyingScot]

Perhaps nomenclature is a little different, but I do believe that there are switches in the doors, boot and bonnet that are used by the 5AS.
These usually prevent the arming of the system.
 
I would have to check the wiring diagram to confirm that though.
 
The switches in the fob do go bad after awhile and i have one that seems to need re-syncing everyother day even though the battery is good.
Terry

Yes that's right on both counts. Door, bonnet and boot switches need to function correctly or it won't arm. The small switches in the keyfob crack at the solder joint on the circuit board (can be repaired).
Replacement key fobs would have to be programmed into the system, so might be easier to repair existing one.

FS

[ace01]

 

Perhaps nomenclature is a little different, but I do believe that there are switches in the doors, boot and bonnet that are used by the 5AS.
These usually prevent the arming of the system.
 
I would have to check the wiring diagram to confirm that though.
 
The switches in the fob do go bad after awhile and i have one that seems to need re-syncing everyother day even though the battery is good.
Terry

Yes that's right on both counts. Door, bonnet and boot switches need to function correctly or it won't arm. The small switches in the keyfob crack at the solder joint on the circuit board (can be repaired).
Replacement key fobs would have to be programmed into the system, so might be easier to repair existing one.

FS

 

As above and the battery carrier frequently breaks the solder joints and leads to an intermittent failure.

[Steve220]

Switches make more sense! Hopefully it'll just be one of them with a bad contact. Usually the bonnet is a troublemaker!

[CityEPete]

Those strips of watch batteries from the pound shop are junk too so make sure you don't bother with them.

[CityEPete]

If it's a 98 it should have the plug to programme the new fob so no need to remove anything?

http://www.remotekey...ver/rover-mini/

[MatthewsDad]

+1 for remotekey if the other steps don't get a result

[djsao]

Thank you for the answers. Looks like I need a new fob then (or need to solder it). Found an old fob that I thought was broken and this now works fine.

Worked to get the immobiliser off and then on to the next problem.

I started the car, and something under the hood started whining very loud (sounded like a caralarm), then came smoke and a burning smell.

Anyone know what I need to check?

Guessing something broke because it has been standing still too long.

[panky]

Did you notice if the ignition light went out as it started, I'm thinking seized alternator or maybe water pump causing the fan belt to slip and get hot.

[djsao]

Will have to check again tomorrow, but don't think any lights was on.

[djsao]

Checked again today. The battery light was still on when the car started (a little less noise this time, but still very loud, with smoke and burning smell). So that means it's the alternator that is faulty?