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Mpi Coolant Refill Problem


Best Answer panky , 16 March 2017 - 04:48 PM

Try disconnecting the heater return hose while the engine is ticking over and see if there's anything coming out. If it isn't then a quick rev should push the coolant through - you will get wet ;D

Remember to stick something over where you pull the hose off or it will draw in air to the pump.

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#16 JamesMiniMealor

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 05:45 PM

Sounds like an airlock.

Having the front of the car slightly higher can help move the bubble, technically the expansion bottle should be the highest point.

 

Here's hoping you've not dislodged a load of gunk and got a blockage.

 

This damn cooling system has been nothing but trouble for 2 years



#17 nicklouse

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 06:14 PM

Just had a look at you topics on this and I would say you are chasing a problem you have been told you have thst you may not have.

First thing I would always do with an over heating problem is pull the thermostat.and check it in some boiling water for movement.

I would also be checking for the fan coming on.

Radiator replacement is only really needed if it leaks.

Water pump replacement only if it leaks or dies not pull water out of the expansion tank wow hen revving.

The "switch" to allow the water to flow into the heater matrix (guess the MPI is no different in operation to older) is it actually opening and closing allowing water to pass?

Have you done a compression test or a test for trace in the water?

Is the timing right?

You may be chasing the wrong thing.

#18 Steve220

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 06:23 PM

Sounds like your heater matrix is blocked. It's a low point in the system and is renowned for filling up with rusty silt and crud. Does your thermostat have a bypass hole too?

Edited by Steve220, 16 March 2017 - 06:25 PM.


#19 JamesMiniMealor

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 09:11 PM

Just had a look at you topics on this and I would say you are chasing a problem you have been told you have thst you may not have.

First thing I would always do with an over heating problem is pull the thermostat.and check it in some boiling water for movement.

I would also be checking for the fan coming on.

Radiator replacement is only really needed if it leaks.

Water pump replacement only if it leaks or dies not pull water out of the expansion tank wow hen revving.

The "switch" to allow the water to flow into the heater matrix (guess the MPI is no different in operation to older) is it actually opening and closing allowing water to pass?

Have you done a compression test or a test for trace in the water?

Is the timing right?

You may be chasing the wrong thing.

 

Probably am. I have had a cooling problem for years. No one has fixed it. I've fed up with visiting mechanics and so have decided to learn it all myself. Even if I have replaced perfectly working parts, at least I've learnt something.

 

The radiator turned out to be fine.

 

The fan comes on when it should

 

Water pump did leak but the bolts weren't exactly tight. It looked old anyway so I'm happy i replaced it. Interesting point though, the bolts were covered in oil that stank of petrol. 

 

I don't know what switch you refer to

 

I don't know what a compression test is. We pressurised the cooling system to 1 bar, if that's what you mean

 

I don't really know what timing is

 

I am almost certainly chasing the wrong things. But eventually I'll get something right. Still cheaper than having it done for me. I have took it to Mini specialists, even ones recommended by clubs. No use. No love for my little car.


Edited by JamesMiniMealor, 16 March 2017 - 09:25 PM.


#20 JamesMiniMealor

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 09:14 PM

Sounds like your heater matrix is blocked. It's a low point in the system and is renowned for filling up with rusty silt and crud. Does your thermostat have a bypass hole too?

 

Who knows. When I flushed it the water flowed fine. I gradually increased the pressure to full mains pressure and left it there for a while. Lots of crud came out but the water was clean by the time I'd finished. 

 

Also, when I started the engine with the return pipe undone, the water flowed out of it. 

 

What's a thermostat bypass hole?


Edited by JamesMiniMealor, 16 March 2017 - 09:15 PM.


#21 Steve220

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Posted 17 March 2017 - 05:35 AM

Did you reverse flush it?



#22 tmsmini

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Posted 17 March 2017 - 03:25 PM

The MPi has the heater valve under the dash. I would check to make sure the lever is actually opening and closing the valve.

heater-03.jpg

 

It does not need to open much to get flow through, so I doubt if that is the issue. But I had the shield of the heater cable break loose from the clamp and prevent the valve from opening and closing properly. It is difficult, but you can get a finger on the valve to see if the lever is moving.

 

A compression or leak down test would help in diagnosis. Maybe there is a club close by who could help you with this.

As you said you will learn by doing.

Terry

This is with the heater valve released from the dash:

heater-07.jpg

You can see how the heater cable is attached to the valve.


Edited by tmsmini, 17 March 2017 - 03:28 PM.


#23 JamesMiniMealor

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 09:28 PM

Thank you everyone for the help. After almost 2 weeks, the car is running great. Well, the cooling system is anyway. 



#24 jamesquintin

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Posted 21 March 2017 - 09:31 AM

what was the problem in the end..?



#25 gazpoole

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Posted 23 May 2017 - 12:08 PM

Thank you everyone for the help. After almost 2 weeks, the car is running great. Well, the cooling system is anyway. 

 

How did you fix the issue as I am dealing with similar issues at the moment.



#26 eric.sen

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 09:01 AM

Had the same problem, for me I solved it by cutting 50/50 the coolant with some distilled water and changing my tank cap (that was new for Minisport but maybe chinese quality...)

With a cap from a land rover parts seller (the brand on the box was "Verner")

Now no problems with the coolant boiling


Edited by eric.sen, 24 May 2017 - 03:03 PM.





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