11 replies to this topic

[aaron339]

Is it a normal thing for the battery to drain or to have a slugish turnover when starting on a 2000 mpi if its been sat for a few days?

 

I fitted a new battery thinking it was that but it still does it

 

I tested the wiring and there is no reading of a drain

 

I had the starter motor looked at and re-conditioned because the garage said it was the problem but that has'nt worked

 

I'm thinking they didnt do a good job on the re-conditioning of the starter motor so could this be the problem

 

thanks

[nicklouse]

did you charge the battery before fitting?

 

have you checked how much the drain is? as that will show if it is the normal one for radio setting alarm etc or something more.

[aaron339]

did you charge the battery before fitting?

 

have you checked how much the drain is? as that will show if it is the normal one for radio setting alarm etc or something more.

the battery has a full 12v

 

when i tested with a multimeter the reading was something like 0.02 mA which i think is normal

 

i take the head unit off all the time so the only thing that is running is the immobiliser and the clock which does'nt actually work properly anyway, its right twice a day though :)

[CityEPete]

"Full 12v" is actually fairly flat and the voltage doesn't tell you anything about it's cranking ability.

A good charge over a few days or even a week on a proper battery conditioner/trickle charger might do the job.

Edited by CityEPete, 27 March 2017 - 12:15 PM.

[aaron339]

"Full 12v" is actually fairly flat and the voltage doesn't tell you anything about it's cranking ability.

A good charge over a few days or even a week on a proper battery conditioner/trickle charger might do the job.

ok i'll give it a good charge and see how that goes

 

It was a mistake when i said i had the starter motor re-conditioned, i actually ment the alternator.

 

I've noticed people are talking about upgrading the alternator to a 70A, would that make much difference as i think i have the standard 65A version

[nicklouse]

 

"Full 12v" is actually fairly flat and the voltage doesn't tell you anything about it's cranking ability.

A good charge over a few days or even a week on a proper battery conditioner/trickle charger might do the job.

ok i'll give it a good charge and see how that goes

 

It was a mistake when i said i had the starter motor re-conditioned, i actually ment the alternator.

 

I've noticed people are talking about upgrading the alternator to a 70A, would that make much difference as i think i have the standard 65A version

 

as has been said 12V is half full at best.

[Carlos W]

 

"Full 12v" is actually fairly flat and the voltage doesn't tell you anything about it's cranking ability.

A good charge over a few days or even a week on a proper battery conditioner/trickle charger might do the job.

ok i'll give it a good charge and see how that goes

 

It was a mistake when i said i had the starter motor re-conditioned, i actually ment the alternator.

 

I've noticed people are talking about upgrading the alternator to a 70A, would that make much difference as i think i have the standard 65A version

 

Whether or not you need an uprated alternator depends on the load you're powering.

 

You need to add up the current of all the items you're powering then add 20% to work out if your alternator is big enough.

 

It's worth cleaning up the connections to the battery, boot floor and in the engine compartment to ensure you have good earths 

[Mervyn]

What is the voltage at rest, and then engine running a high idle. you should be seeing approx 13.5-14.5v

 

any less and alternator could be faulty.

 

Sometimes when the diode pack fails they will drain battery down, do this more than a few times and even a new lead acid battery will be ruined

 

oh and check engine earth strap

 

cheers

 

Merv

Edited by Mervyn, 27 March 2017 - 02:18 PM.

[Cooperman]

The Rover security system fitted to Rover vehicles around the mid to late 1990's were known to drain the battery after a while. I had a Rover 214 Si and if I left it for a couple of weeks it needed the battery re-charging before it would start. I used a master switch and re-set the clock every time after re-connecting if I had to leave it for more than a few days.

They were a real problem if left at an airport, but I guess one doesn't leave a classic car parked at airports these days.

[eric.sen]

_{Mine has got the same problem after few days or weeks with no activity,}

_{so I put a cut off and a cable just directly to to battery and the clock and the radio, to not loose information when the power is cutted.}

[surfblue]

The Rover security system fitted to Rover vehicles around the mid to late 1990's were known to drain the battery after a while. I had a Rover 214 Si and if I left it for a couple of weeks it needed the battery re-charging before it would start. I used a master switch and re-set the clock every time after re-connecting if I had to leave it for more than a few days.

They were a real problem if left at an airport, but I guess one doesn't leave a classic car parked at airports these days.

 

 

_{Mine has got the same problem after few days or weeks with no activity,}

_{so I put a cut off and a cable just directly to to battery and the clock and the radio, to not loose information when the power is cutted.}

I had exactly the same problem with a 1998 Cooper Sportspack when it was about 4 years old. It would drain the battery over 2 days, sometimes less. It was checked out by several auto electricians but they could never source the problem. A master cut out switch was the answer on the earth lead in the boot beside the battery. It worked and was an extra security feature. It was a pain re entering the radio code every day though!

[eric.sen]

Yes but I put a wire between the radio (permanent positive wire) and the clock directly to the battery,

it drains nothing and I don't need to re entering the radio code and re setting the clock everytime I cut off the battery.