16 replies to this topic

[Chodosh]

Progress at last! It transpires that the ecu does receive reading from the (new) sensor, but (according to the sykes-pickavant code reader thingy)  even when radiator cap blowing it only gets up to about 30 degrees centigrade, and the heater does not get warm at all. After pulling everything to pieces, it transpires that the water pump inlet was COMPLETELY blocked with corrosion. The car had been standing for ten years, but certainly the first time I've ever seen this. Anyone else seen similar? 

This is interesting. I have a 96' John Cooper S car... I also have a faulty reading. My temp gauge does not read at all....

 

Q1. If the Fuel gauge is working, does that mean that the temp gauge side (voltage regulator) is fine?

Q2. What should cold start idle vs regular idle be? Car runs okay, but a little lumpy in spots

Q3. How do I tell if my water pump is working as it should? I get good heat into the car from the heater matrix...

 

I have changed the CTS, do not have a code reader and am a bit flummoxed by the gauge not reading.

 

Is there a way to check continuity of wiring other than a code reader? seems like that might be the last check....

 

Thanks for the advice

[Shep76S]

On my old 96 JC Si the temp gauge hardly moved and I was told it was down to the 'liquorice stick' that they had put in series with the temp transmitter to fool the ecu to think it was a little cold, this gave a fuel enrichment to the engine. I have never seen this as part of the items listed in the kit but at JC's once I asked the chief engineer about it, he smiled and said there were a couple of 'extras' on their built cars but wouldn't say what.
I always assumed the liquorice stick was just a small piece of black resistive loom.