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Tips On Fitting Cage


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#1 MIJ

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 02:01 PM

I've ordered a SD rear cage to fit.
Does anyone have any tips on the best way to get ir any pointers?
Thanks.

#2 nicklouse

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 02:18 PM

what problems are you having?

 

to be honest they just fit. but some people have problems. nothing that a ratchet strap or a rope cant fix.



#3 MIJ

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 02:36 PM

No problems, it's being delivered soon it's just something I've never done before. I know I will have to remove the rear pockets and weld plates either side of the body?

#4 rally1380

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 02:45 PM

Cups of tea, Ratchet straps, A helper, and the realisation that you might scratch your paint a little bit.

 

Removal of steering wheel helps too.



#5 MIJ

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 08:24 PM

Thanks for help :)

#6 nicklouse

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 08:33 PM

No problems, it's being delivered soon it's just something I've never done before. I know I will have to remove the rear pockets and weld plates either side of the body?


Errrm not so fast.

It all depends on what you are going to be using the car for.

Welded plates. Yes read the correct part of the blue book that covers the requirements for your racing.

Then read the tech section about modding the body. Some may require you to refit the rear bins if you remove them.

As with any form of Motorsport read, reread, and read again the tech regs. Putting things back in is harder than taking things out later.

#7 rally1380

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 09:04 AM

 

No problems, it's being delivered soon it's just something I've never done before. I know I will have to remove the rear pockets and weld plates either side of the body?


Errrm not so fast.

It all depends on what you are going to be using the car for.

Welded plates. Yes read the correct part of the blue book that covers the requirements for your racing.

Then read the tech section about modding the body. Some may require you to refit the rear bins if you remove them.

As with any form of Motorsport read, reread, and read again the tech regs. Putting things back in is harder than taking things out later.

 

 

Agree ^^^^^^^

 

 

Looks like the OP is building a historic road rally car (like my clubman was!.....kind of still is in a way).

 

http://www.theminifo...oad-rally-mini/

 

What I would suggest is refitting the door bins if you can.....looks a neater job in a nice mk1 like you have got.  There are neat ways of achieving this....think there is an example on the SD website.

 

What I would also say is a cage isn't completely necessary for historic road events.  Yes fit it if you want, but it's not really needed (if that makes sense) and just adds weight and reduces your overall power to weight ratio.

 

Yes safety devices like roll cages offer you great protection in the event of a bump or roll over, but they are not actually required for those sorts of events and test speeds are kept below 30mph average so big crashes are not really a common issue unlike if we were talking stage rallying or racing.

 

Best of luck whichever way you go and keep the build thread updated with progress - you've got a lovely car there and look forward to seeing it out on events.



#8 nicklouse

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 09:11 AM

I would also add that I have fitted rear cages without the need to remove the bins.

 

a right pain but doable. again this was 30 some years ago and with a friend.

 

but I can not stress the importance of reading and fully understanding the rules and regs. if you find a bit that does not seem to make sense then do not guess ASK.



#9 minifreek1

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Posted 29 April 2017 - 09:43 AM

I fitted the full cage in mine without removing the rear bins, its awkward but it can be done...

 

I found removing the interior completely, carpets, steering wheel, seats both front and back, helped a lot....

 

It took me a hell of a lot of patience, head scratching, swearing and a 3 tonne ratchet strap, just to get the rear cage in... then a lot of marking up, measuring, measuring some more and then finally measuring again, then drilling the holes for the bolts to got through where the legs go into the pockets....

 

Mine also has door bars too, which I keep getting complaints about from my kids because they find the passenger bar awkward to get in and out of... I dont find it a problem :)



#10 morley

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Posted 29 April 2017 - 08:21 PM

I found this a lot of help, although it doesn't say what torque is needed for bolting the cage to the car

http://www.safetydev...g instructions/

#11 OzOAP

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Posted 30 April 2017 - 07:16 AM

My daughter has just fitted a rear cage to her road car, just for cosmetic/street cred/girl racer reasons...kids eh? No welding plates, regulations to consider.
She removed steering column, not just wheel, seat belts reels from rear bins and seat belt mounts from B posts for more clearance as you tilt the cage backwards. I assisted with ratchet strap, helpful comments like "man up" as she struggled to lift cage into car and holding spanner on outside as she did bolts up. In all it took her about 3 hours. Worst part for her was shear bolt on column bracket. Worse part for me was having to listen to her music.

#12 MIJ

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Posted 07 May 2017 - 05:18 PM

No problems, it's being delivered soon it's just something I've never done before. I know I will have to remove the rear pockets and weld plates either side of the body?


Errrm not so fast.
It all depends on what you are going to be using the car for.
Welded plates. Yes read the correct part of the blue book that covers the requirements for your racing.
Then read the tech section about modding the body. Some may require you to refit the rear bins if you remove them.
As with any form of Motorsport read, reread, and read again the tech regs. Putting things back in is harder than taking things out later.
 
Agree ^^^^^^^
 
 
Looks like the OP is building a historic road rally car (like my clubman was!.....kind of still is in a way).
 
http://www.theminifo...oad-rally-mini/
 
What I would suggest is refitting the door bins if you can.....looks a neater job in a nice mk1 like you have got.  There are neat ways of achieving this....think there is an example on the SD website.
 
What I would also say is a cage isn't completely necessary for historic road events.  Yes fit it if you want, but it's not really needed (if that makes sense) and just adds weight and reduces your overall power to weight ratio.
 
Yes safety devices like roll cages offer you great protection in the event of a bump or roll over, but they are not actually required for those sorts of events and test speeds are kept below 30mph average so big crashes are not really a common issue unlike if we were talking stage rallying or racing.
 
Best of luck whichever way you go and keep the build thread updated with progress - you've got a lovely car there and look forward to seeing it out on events.

Thankyou all for your help. It's been built for hrcr daylight events, with the view of stage rallying in the future so I want to have the rear cage fitted for now at least and then progress into stage rallying (and front cage) at a later date.

When you fitted yours did you weld plates either side of the sills? I've been looking at a few cars and some have plates on the underside...some don't. I don't have my blue book to hand at the moment.

Thanks.

#13 nicklouse

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Posted 07 May 2017 - 05:26 PM

It does not matter which side.

You can download the blue book from the MSA. Pages

#14 MIJ

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Posted 07 May 2017 - 05:29 PM

It does not matter which side.
You can download the blue book from the MSA. Pages


Didn't know that..thanks!

#15 lsdweb

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Posted 07 May 2017 - 07:28 PM

Blue Book - K - Safety - https://www.msauk.or...rssafetyk-3.pdf






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