10 replies to this topic

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

There's no play on it, but it does slide side to side slightly. Is it a case of greasing up or are there shims?

[Magneto]

I just rebuilt both sides on my 1989 Racing Geen car, one side was completely knackered even tho you really couldn't induce any play in it.....I'd tear it down and check it just in case. You guys are lucky you can buy rebuilt arms pretty reasonably, for us in the states it's a bit spendy to ship them and return the cores so we just have to rebuild them.

[Spider]

If the thrusts are seated properly, then short of machining steps in the thrusts themselves for the pin to seat in to, or machining back the shoulder of the Pin itself, to take up the excessive movement then there's not much that can be done apart from replacing the arm.

 

I do recall that someone was marketing pin kits a little while back that actually had a slightly shorter pin in them and some shims to the dia of the pin, so this could be adjusted, but i haven't seen these around for a while now.

[GraemeC]

Minimine sell the kits with the shims on ebay.
Can't do a link from phone, but item number 172029354757

I've never found anywhere selling the shims separately

Edited by GraemeC, 29 April 2017 - 07:52 AM.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Unfortunately my radius arms are extended to take 13 inch wheels so i'm stuck with them. i'll take them apart and have a look.
cheers

[tiger99]

Just curious, but how were they extended, and why was it necessary? The rolling radius of a 13 inch wheel with the correct tyre profile is similar to that of a 10" or 12". You get more room inside the wheel for bigger brakes, and less rubber, for a poorer ride and handling, but usually no problems with clearance. Am I missing something?

[nicklouse]

Just curious, but how were they extended, and why was it necessary? The rolling radius of a 13 inch wheel with the correct tyre profile is similar to that of a 10" or 12". You get more room inside the wheel for bigger brakes, and less rubber, for a poorer ride and handling, but usually no problems with clearance. Am I missing something?

Yep. Not a Mini. A Yak. Big wheels.

[nicklouse]

There's no play on it, but it does slide side to side slightly. Is it a case of greasing up or are there shims?

I would be getting the arms off and then having a real good look at them.

The main body of the shaft should be very close to if not the same as the width of the arm.

As you are sugesting this is not so, then the arms must have worm on the bearing surface against the old shims.

Assemble on the bench and measure the total gap on one side.

[Spider]

 

There's no play on it, but it does slide side to side slightly. Is it a case of greasing up or are there shims?

I would be getting the arms off and then having a real good look at them.

The main body of the shaft should be very close to if not the same as the width of the arm.

As you are sugesting this is not so, then the arms must have worm on the bearing surface against the old shims.

Assemble on the bench and measure the total gap on one side.

 

 

What you've said here Nick is quite true, however given the odd-ballness of the Arms, we're stuck with what we sometimes have and have to do a work around. Even if the thrust face of the arm is worn, it's usually not the end of the world, but does need to be sorted  one way or another. I'm often in a similar boat with the Arms for our Big Wheel Mokes, they are not exactly plentiful and I don't see anyone ever tooling up to re-manufacture them.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Just curious, but how were they extended, and why was it necessary? The rolling radius of a 13 inch wheel with the correct tyre profile is similar to that of a 10" or 12". You get more room inside the wheel for bigger brakes, and less rubber, for a poorer ride and handling, but usually no problems with clearance. Am I missing something?

There you go tiger
http://www.theminifo...rt-rat-sleeper/

[nicklouse]

There's no play on it, but it does slide side to side slightly. Is it a case of greasing up or are there shims?

I would be getting the arms off and then having a real good look at them.
The main body of the shaft should be very close to if not the same as the width of the arm.
As you are sugesting this is not so, then the arms must have worm on the bearing surface against the old shims.
Assemble on the bench and measure the total gap on one side.

 
What you've said here Nick is quite true, however given the odd-ballness of the Arms, we're stuck with what we sometimes have and have to do a work around. Even if the thrust face of the arm is worn, it's usually not the end of the world, but does need to be sorted  one way or another. I'm often in a similar boat with the Arms for our Big Wheel Mokes, they are not exactly plentiful and I don't see anyone ever tooling up to re-manufacture them.

True but if you have them off the car and do some measuring you might find the the best mix of parts. Which may remove the problem.