11 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

OK so I had the Mini MOT'd in November - also had the tracking done at the same time.

 

Car has been driving fine since then but never been out that much - only when its sunny

On the last couple of drives I have noticed that she is trying to wander to the left and definitely pulling to the left when braking.

She is a 1982 HLE 1000 Saloon with original Drums Front and Rear, 5 x 10 Wellers and 165 x 70 Tyres.

 

Any advice on what to check? Brake Shoes, Brake Cylinders, Leaks, Springs? How do you check / adjust the tracking? 

 

I fitted new front adjustable Tie Bars but never adjusted them, thought maybe the garage would have when it was doing the tracking? 

 

 

[nicklouse]

if you did not ask for a 4 wheel set up you will not have got one.

 

pulling to one side tends to be worn Tie bar bushes.

 

but misaligned hubs will do similar.

 

but it would have been noticeable form the start unless you have just made the change to the tie bars.

 

but check for loose nuts and worn bushes first.

[Steve220]

Check tire pressures too.

Edited by Steve220, 05 May 2017 - 09:26 AM.

[tiger99]

Have the drums off before you drive it again and check for leaking wheel cylinders. Also check that the wheel bearings are ok. (Feel for sloppiness, or roughness.)

 

That covers the possible real and immediate dangers. Then there are tie bars, tyres, as suggested, but if you have not changed anything or kerbed it you can rule out tracking, for now.

 

You do need a full geometry check at a good tyre dealer, and make sure that you explain that the castor is adjustable, camber too if you have adjustable lower arms, otherwise they will just follow the computer and do toe only. But that can be left till the problem is fixed, which is something that has changed lately.

 

I suspect broken subframe mounts, especially at the toeboard. It is hard to see sometimes, but the rubber debonds from the metal, and sometimes the metal fractures. Get someone to wiggle the steering wheel vigorously as you look. You may see the subframe moving rather more than it should. Very common and not at all difficult or expensive to fix, but it might be the time to consider a full set of solid mounts, which improve the handling greatly. Search on the forum for info about strengthening plates.

[JonnyAlpha]

Mmm in my haste to get this project finished I never removed the front drums I just cleaned up behind them. I have just removed both Drums and whilst the LH side looked quite clean the RH side did not. No leaks either side but on the RH side there was quite a lot of brake dust and the tops of both pistons looked very dry. The forward most piston is rusted under the boot and when depressing the brake pedal only the rearward piston seems to be moving. Can't tell whether both LH side pistons are moving because until my daughter arrives I cannot press the pedal and see

 

So it looks like at least one new Front Brake cylinder on the RH side and some more Brake Fluid!!

[JonnyAlpha]

Quite embarrased at the state of this and the fact that I completely failed to strip these both down.

[JonnyAlpha]

Can't seem to find the correct replacement cylinders on Minispares? Are the front wheel and rear wheel brake cylinders different?

[MacGyver]

GWC127 for LH and GWC126 for RH.
These are genuine part numbers at minispares.

Ben

[tiger99]

If some cylinders are like that, you should change them all, as it is certain that all will be in poor condition, and the consequences of a seal failure can be fatal.

[JonnyAlpha]

OK so I bought a new cylinder, securing bolts, spring washers and gasket and today set about fitting it.

 

Stripped the brake shoes down no problem however i could nut get the union out of the cylinder that takes the brake fluid from the front cylinder to the rear cylinder (both on the front Hub).

 

This looked like a 7/16th (well that was the only spanner that nearly fitted. The spanner was not an exact fit and even so the nut would not undo.

 

In the end I had to give up and decided that the best option would be to by a new bridging pipe and also as advised also change the rear cylinder so that both are new.

 

Couple of questions.

 

1. Is this the correct pipe (HF10 from Mini Spares):

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Brakes/Front/HF10.aspx?0401&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/front%20brakes.aspx|Back%20to%20search 

 

2. Also what is the correct size spanner to fit this pipe?

 

I did manage to free up the piston on the front cylinder, bled the brakes and took a short drive around the estate (the car no longer pulls when braking) I will not drive it until I replace the cylinders.

 

The car is still wanting to wander to the left though.

 

 

[MacGyver]

I think the hf9 is the original but hf10 is just a tiny bit longer but basically the same if not easier to not kink...
7/16 seems to be the right one but might be metric...
If it wonders it might be that it was used to break on only one side and maybe the shoes are slippery on the 'unused side.
Get both sides apart and check all cylinders and then give the shoes and drums a quick scratch with a scothbrite and then degrease and refit, setup gaps on shoes/drums drive a bit to settle and reset shoes/drums.
😀 simples...

[MacGyver]

This might help...
 BrakesSingleLeading.jpg   45.91K   7 downloads

Edit... The picture of back brakes won't help...

Edited by MacGyver, 14 May 2017 - 04:18 PM.