10 replies to this topic

[balle]

Hi guys,

 

I've been recently having some problems with my SPi:

- water temp gauge indicating cold when driving. At idle, sometimes it's cold, sometimes it's at the white mark. 

- radiator fan always on, even on cold start

- sometimes, high revs when I stop at a traffic light (as if I was pressing the accelerator quite hard)

 

So, from what I found in the forums, this might be a temperature sensor problem (either intake air, or coolant). I have already checked the intake air temp sensor, and seems to be working correctly.

 

For the coolant temp sensor, I didn't get good readings however. I measured the resistance between the P/G and P/BK wires at the ECU (each at one end of the sensor), and I read about 6 MOhm instead of the couple of KOhm that should be read. So, there is a problem with the wiring, or with the sensor. From what could I inspect without removing the inlet manifold, the wire seems to be quite deteriorated in one part, but the 6 MOhm has me confused: if the wire was broken, I should have read an infinite resistance, right?. It could be then a problem with the sensor (the car may have run a little while on low coolant, maybe this affected?). 

 

Either way, I have to remove the inlet manifold to check whether the sensor or the wiring is faulty. If it's the sensor, changing it shouldn't be difficult from what I've read. Changing the wiring... I have my doubts about how to do it properly. Should I cut the old wire near the ECU connector, and run a new wire through the loom? Whats the proper way to do it? Any precautions/advice about removing the inlet manifold? Could I do it in my parking? Otherwise I should drive to the workshop, but its 10 kms away, and I don't really want to drive my mini running like that. 

 

Any advice will be great, I'm still a noob regarding my mini :)

 

Thanks! 

Edited by balle, 07 May 2017 - 09:47 AM.

[Nu2mini]

The electric fan should not be constantly running. When you say the radiator fan is always on I'm assuming you mean the electric fan in the wing. If this is the case the fan switch is located in the bottom of the radiator at the front part number (GVS104). This is not controlled by the ECU. Other things to check is the thermostat which needs to be 88 degrees for the SPI (GTS106) and the thermostat must be fitted in the top of the sandwich plate not in the head. It is also important to check the cooling system is flushed through properly and free of air locks. The easiest way to drain the system is to remove the fan switch from the bottom of the radiator. You'll need a new seal (CDU2334) when you come to refit it. Its also a good idea to replace the clip (KTP9002).

[FlyingScot]

You're over thinking this.....answer above the fan isn't controlled by the ECU. Its a thermos switch and relay.
Don't cut anything wiring...
FS

[balle]

Sorry, my bad. After carefully inspecting, it's not the electric fan that is running, but the belt-driven fan (which, I understand, is normal to be running all the time). 

[Nu2mini]

OK, but as a first step I'd carefully check the points I raised in my first post about the cooling system. (Correct thermostat, thermostat location, good clean flushed system, no airlocks). If all of this checks out OK the next thing would be to get the thing checked by a diagnostics reader to check for any fault codes and also check the individual sensors. This would also tell us what temperature the ECU was actually seeing. I know this is sometimes not easy to arrange, but someone may have one close to you. The terminals were generic, with the right cable and a POD for each manufacturer (Ford, GM, Peugeot, Rover etc.). This is a better way to go rather than just diving in

[Nu2mini]

It appears at lease 3 of your countrymen have a code reader they are prepared to share. (though they do not seem to be close to you) See topic

 

http://www.theminifo...lling-to-share/

 

and search on France.

[balle]

Thanks for the answer ! 

 

Actually I've ordered the parts for manufacturing the cable, and using MEMSgauge and librosco.

 

I'll check what you said and come back with updates.

 

Cheers

[Nu2mini]

OK good.Ive no experience of the MEMS Gauge. I'll be interested to know how you get on. Please keep us updated once you have everything setup.

[balle]

So, an update after a while...

 

In the end I fixed the problem: the e wiring to the water temperature sensor was cut, so I had to fix that. Car is working properly now.

 

As to memsgauge, I haven't been able to make it work yet, there seems to be a problem communicating with the ECU.  

[genpop]

Hi, what problem do you have on communication?

Is the ttl-converter shown under systems-device manager?If not you have to dowload and mount the driver .Windows is doing that automatically when the pc is web connected and you right click the device and then renew driver.When you see the interface  under com , remember the comport number.In memsgauge or mems-rosco the second tab is called options, here you have to set the com port,its the com port number you've seen in the device manager.

If you couldn'd get the round three pole connector described on colins side then solder a second arbitrary 3 pole socket parallel to the existing one and the according plug to the interface.

If there are further problems feel free to ask here.https://groups.googl...ems-diagnostics

[balle]

Hi! 

 

I finally managed to communicate with the ECU, and memsgauge is working perfectly. I had wired the connector in the wrong order, my bad

 

Thanks for the advice !