5 replies to this topic

[Magneto]

I know there are a couple of threads on this product but they all seem to be pretty old and I didn't see anyone address this.....so reading the small bit of info that came with the kit, it seems like they want the longer of the two sizes of cones to go in the front....is that correct?

 

Reason I ask is that I have my cone compressor cranked to the max and I don't see me being able to get the upper arm shaft in place. Also, if it's that compressed, it seems like it will be at the absolute highest ride height, and I don't think I can even get the buffer in there.

 

Lastly, when I put coil springs (not coliovers) in another car, seems to me the short spring went in the front.

 

Any help is appreciated!

Edited by Magneto, 26 May 2017 - 09:03 PM.

[THE ANORAK]

As far as i remember, yes the tall one is at the front. Are you using hi-los ?? You must use the adjustable trumpets. They will not fit with standard trumpets.

[Magneto]

Yes, using the kit from MiniSport that incudes their hi-los.....I did manage to get it installed, at least one side. Can't wait to set it down on it's wheels and see if it looks like it's ready for the Dakar! 

 

I had to make a stronger cone compressor, the tube I was using was too thin so I cut a piece of black pipe, that allowed me to crank down on it harder and get it all in place. Thanks for your reply.

 

One job on our little cars that I really dislike - R&R'ing the upper control arms........ PITA.

 

I still need to get some lower shock mounting pins, as this car had coilovers, there were none.

Edited by Magneto, 26 May 2017 - 10:44 PM.

[tiger99]

Please be sure to use the bolt plus spacer that was substituted for the lower pins in 1974. The fatigue strength is far better and they are much cheaper too.

 

http://www.somerford...page=page&id=52

[Magneto]

Thanks for the tip, tiger99!

 

MiniSpares sells an "uprated" pin, looks like the original but is supposed to be much stronger too. Which is better?

[tiger99]

The bolt is by far the best, because the shouldered pin ALWAYS has stress raisers at the changes of diameter..
The problem is fatigue, and the fatigue threshold of very high quality steel is scarcely any better than that of mild steel, only the ultimate strength increases, which is not the limiting factor. Another amateurish design, pointless and more expensive than the official parts on all but early Minis.

By the way, the same thinking can be applied to rear radius arm and front top arm pins. It is possible to get precise hardened and ground hollow bar at reasonable cost, and with the correct bore size and a grade 10.9 bolt down the middle they would be much stronger than the originals. The slight downside is what to do about lubrication?