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Saved More Weight Today


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#1 waddle

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 04:24 PM

1.5KG out of the shell

 

C-pillar seatbelt mounts are 400g ish each

and the bit of steel below each rear window,  

 

did the roof lining panel the other day wich was about 900g all in! 

 

Aiming for 550kg on the road so still a long way to go!

 



#2 Cooperman

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 07:35 PM

550 kg is a good target weight.

 

Do you have a carbon-fibre roof panel, aluminium door skins, plastic windows with the winding mechanism removed from the doors, carbon or GRP bonnet & boot lid and 'chicken wire' mesh grille with no grille surrounds?



#3 waddle

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 07:45 PM

Ive gone with: 

 

Migila cage,

F/G roof, doors, front end, bonnet, boot lid

Plastic windows,

Alloy brakes

mini fins

Cut down rear subby +coil overs

I havent decided on the grille yet,  

 

There is a lot of work just to offset the cage, but it does mean I can chop away happily inside without worrying about it going floppy,  I think i will have to remake a few parts in ally to get to my target weight



#4 sonikk4

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 07:46 PM

Bin all of the sound proofing.



#5 waddle

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 07:50 PM

already all gone!  then realised I will probably put a flat floor in and have the exhaust out the a panel,  so thats a day of my life im not getting back aha!



#6 sonikk4

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 08:25 PM

already all gone!  then realised I will probably put a flat floor in and have the exhaust out the a panel,  so thats a day of my life im not getting back aha!

 

What about behind the rear cards on the quarters and on the roof itself??



#7 nicklouse

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 08:30 PM

Stick with 10s and you will do it easily.

#8 1984mini25

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 09:03 PM

and the bit of steel below each rear window,  

 

 

You wouldn't happen to still have the sections you've chopped out?



#9 waddle

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Posted 28 May 2017 - 11:47 AM

All the rear seat and rear quarter sound deadening has gone too, must be a good 6-7kg all in,  roof is going FG so should be all good , 

 

Still got them,  you are welcome to come and get them if you are local to Lichfield



#10 tiger99

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Posted 28 May 2017 - 05:00 PM

Ground the rough skin off all castings, like the engine block (inside and out)? I am not kidding, must be a few pounds of worthless material there. Hard, messy work! Radius arms too. If done in the correct manner you will actually increase the fatigue strength.

 

Drilled the front subframe top mount bolts? That one is somewhat easier, a doddle in a lathe, as long as you don't go too deep. Those bolts are ridiculously massive because the diameter was needed to make the rubber bushes work properly. The original Minis just had a pair of 3/8" UNF bolts each side, and failure was unknown.

 

Rewire with modern thin insulation. I anticipate several pounds of useless PVC will be gone.

 

Just a few random ideas, I think there are more things that can be, but rarely are, done to lighten a Mini without impairing the structure at all.

 

Have fun!



#11 mab01uk

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Posted 28 May 2017 - 07:06 PM

Mo Mendham probably built the lightest non-spaceframe Mini......his ultra-lightweight aluminum paneled race Mini below was a regular sight in special saloon racing back in the 1970's
 

Mo-Mendam_zps88b1280f.jpg

 

Mo-Mendham-3_zps21d26367.jpg

Mo-Mendham-2_zpsa815600c.jpg

Mo-Mendham-4_zpscef7d270.jpg

Mo-Mendham-5_zpsd8f85d4d.jpg

 

His very strange looking ultra-lightweight aluminium paneled Mini No.179 (at 1min 15sec) can be seen in this Special saloon race video from Crystal Palace Sep 9th 1972:-


Edited by mab01uk, 28 May 2017 - 07:10 PM.


#12 waddle

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Posted 28 May 2017 - 07:07 PM

cheers for the ideas,  I was looking at making up some turret bolts in ally, need to lern how to use a lathe first though, must be a good saving there! 

 

Im fully onboard with the hole drilling,  i've taken almost half the weight out of the remote gear housing by drilling lots of holes and was thinking of ally  tube instead of the steel bar. 

 

Im planning where to drill the subframe, as its on the car at the moment to line up the front of the cage, but once its out ill attack it !



#13 1984mini25

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Posted 28 May 2017 - 07:19 PM

A few other ideas. Replace the boot floor for a flat steel/alloy or fiberglass panel and ditch the rear valance and closing panels.
Drill the front box section of the rear subframe and replace the rear c section with a steel bar.

#14 waddle

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Posted 28 May 2017 - 07:22 PM

chees,  going with a rear beam,  and flat boot floor,  has anyone done one completely flat before?

 

i guess i need to make the arches wider to let the radius arm miss it ?



#15 nicklouse

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Posted 28 May 2017 - 07:28 PM

flat is not easy as the base of the arches is not flat,

 

and not really.






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