28 replies to this topic

[AeroNotix]

Hi,

 

I've been investigating a rare clunking noise coming from the driver's side (LHD). I've gone through the usual checks, ball joints, hub, all kinds of bushings/brackets, engine mounts, exhaust mountings and all seem mostly fine.

 

I have some play in the steering tie rod end on that side along with a clunking noise when I quickly turn the wheel side-to-side. However, I've noticed that the axle has been grinding away on the subframe. What can cause this? 

 

Picture taken on full right lock: https://goo.gl/photo...HdCKc9q4MD1kj56 you can clearly see the circular grind along with the shavings on the subframe. How can I fix this? What has gone wrong here?

Edited by AeroNotix, 25 June 2017 - 01:33 PM.

[Wim Fournier]

Re-checke the engine mounting on this side in the subframe. Are the two bolts still in the holes through the subframe side and the motormount block and is the rubber between the two iron sheets of the engine mounting block still there and in good order (not sheared). It's obvious that the engine sits too deep in the subframe or too far to the front of the frame.

[AeroNotix]

Re-checke the engine mounting on this side in the subframe. Are the two bolts still in the holes through the subframe side and the motormount block and is the rubber between the two iron sheets of the engine mounting block still there and in good order (not sheared). It's obvious that the engine sits too deep in the subframe or too far to the front of the frame.

Right. Just had another deeper, proper look and it looks like the engine mount on that side has sheared down the rubber section in the middle. I did want to replace the engine mounts and have even been getting quoted from around here (though in Poland, mini specialists are quite rare!)

 

I've done 100% of the work on my mini so far but at the moment I feel like replacing engine mounts is outside of my ability. Unless you guys/gals can convince me otherwise?

 

Here's a few images for you to concur with my assessment:

 

https://photos.googl...mRLSVdJblg4S0NR

 

 

Basically will check Haynes on the replacement procedure and if it's possible to do it with the engine in the car, I may give it a go.

Edited by AeroNotix, 25 June 2017 - 03:20 PM.

[tiger99]

Do not worry. It is fairly easy in the car. You do have to jack the engine using a piece of wood under the gearbox to spread the load, bit nothing too drastic. An assortment of 1/2" AF spanners, open ended as well as ring, of various offsets, will be handy for the one at the clutch end. Long fingers help too, and plenty of patience.

[AeroNotix]

Right. I'll do some more research on how to do it properly. Really hoping this is the what's causing the clunking noise (along with the steering tie rod play). 

[AeroNotix]

What about the wear on the subframe? Obviously it will have weakened it structurally but enough to worry about?

[sonikk4]

What about the wear on the subframe? Obviously it will have weakened it structurally but enough to worry about?

 

I would be more concerned about the wear on the driveshaft to be honest.

[AeroNotix]

 

What about the wear on the subframe? Obviously it will have weakened it structurally but enough to worry about?

 

I would be more concerned about the wear on the driveshaft to be honest.

 

Sure, but changing a driveshaft isn't *as* much work as changing out the subframe. Right?

[Spider]

The subframe will be fine.

 

It is fairly easy to change the engine mounts, but allow lots of time as it is tight to get in to some of the bolts. I think some guys just change the mount in situ, I tend to take the wok off to do it. Each to their own.

[sonikk4]

 

 

What about the wear on the subframe? Obviously it will have weakened it structurally but enough to worry about?

 

I would be more concerned about the wear on the driveshaft to be honest.

 

Sure, but changing a driveshaft isn't *as* much work as changing out the subframe. Right?

 

 

Nope its very easy, the damage to the subbie is nothing to worry about.

[AeroNotix]

The subframe will be fine.

 

It is fairly easy to change the engine mounts, but allow lots of time as it is tight to get in to some of the bolts. I think some guys just change the mount in situ, I tend to take the wok off to do it. Each to their own.

The wok?

[AeroNotix]

Thanks all for the reassurances about the subframe. Puts my mind at ease about that. I've just spent (before reading your posts) 20 minutes massaging it and feeling around to see for any cracks or how thin it has gone. It looks massive but feeling it and sizing it up with the calipers shows little metal has shifted.

[sonikk4]

 

The subframe will be fine.

 

It is fairly easy to change the engine mounts, but allow lots of time as it is tight to get in to some of the bolts. I think some guys just change the mount in situ, I tend to take the wok off to do it. Each to their own.

The wok?

 

 

The wok is the clutch cover.

[wile e coyote]

Changing engine mounts has two possibilities, the rad end always goes in easily - the wok end however...... - it either goes in really easily and the days luck is used up and the bolts just go line up no problem.......or.... what's supposed to be a relatively simple job just doesn't go well - with lots of swearing, skinned knuckles and dropped bolts and several tea breaks to cool down -  

 

Indispensible tools for the job -

 

a scrap ½" spanner - preferably a cheap one that can be bent and or cut down

a really long pair of long nosed pliers

a prong bent cheap steel kitchen fork ( use a really cheap nasty one as they can be repeatedly bent into all sorts of shapes) as an extended bolt holder......

a very sturdy crosshead screwdriver for alignment / levering purposes

an assistant with slim hands that can take instructions (rare)..... a heavy assistant to sit on the lump to help with alignment....(the two aren't mutually exclusive!!!)

 

.......a good smear of grease on the subframe helps get it in place

...... dont be tempted to try bolting up for the outside ....

 

It really isn't a hard job - but can turn into the most frustrating thing since some idiot decided to put a clevis pin on the clutch master. (must have saved about a penny to used that instead of an R clip!!!)

Edited by wile e coyote, 25 June 2017 - 09:20 PM.

[AeroNotix]

Changing engine mounts has two possibilities, the rad end always goes in easily - the wok end however...... - it either goes in really easily and the days luck is used up and the bolts just go line up no problem.......or.... what's supposed to be a relatively simple job just doesn't go well - with lots of swearing, skinned knuckles and dropped bolts and several tea breaks to cool down -  

 

Indispensible tools for the job -

 

a scrap ½" spanner - preferably a cheap one that can be bent and or cut down

a really long pair of long nosed pliers

a prong bent cheap steel kitchen fork ( use a really cheap nasty one as they can be repeatedly bent into all sorts of shapes) as an extended bolt holder......

a very sturdy crosshead screwdriver for alignment / levering purposes

an assistant with slim hands that can take instructions (rare)..... a heavy assistant to sit on the lump to help with alignment....(the two aren't mutually exclusive!!!)

 

.......a good smear of grease on the subframe helps get it in place

...... dont be tempted to try bolting up for the outside ....

 

It really isn't a hard job - but can turn into the most frustrating thing since some idiot decided to put a clevis pin on the clutch master. (must have saved about a penny to used that instead of an R clip!!!)

 

 

I've got all that minus the assistant with slim hands that can take instructions! My usual "helper" (brother) is a mini owner as well but alas he's 1500km+/- back in the UK!

 

My main question is, and the one that keeps me from running headfirst into this today is: if I jack up the engine and remove one side's engine mount and something terrible happens and the engine was to become unjacked somehow -- what will happen?