28 replies to this topic

[Dusky]

It Will hang on the other mount, been there ( jack failed)

[wile e coyote]

not a great deal! - you probably have visions of the engine and box dropping out - it won't, ......can't remember how haynes says to do it - but a decent chunk of timber under the gearbox to spread the load a must and remember to disconnect the exhaust manifold and stabiliser bars first. ( i forgot once!!)

 

... if you do happen to find a right lump of an assistant , capable of obeying instructions with slim dextrous hands you're doing better than I am!!!

Edited by wile e coyote, 25 June 2017 - 10:03 PM.

[Wim Fournier]

"All right' what I read so far. Lot of experiance showed up here.

Here is still an other aspect.

When it is possible for you to weld the nuts -at the right places- on the 'ears' of the motormounts, you haven't to wrestle that much to get the bolts from the inside out of the holes in the subframe. Don't bother when it would take you a day or two te get the nuts welded on the mounts in a proper way, because it could spare you three days to get the bolts in place otherwise.

Yet an other suggestion: When you have got the holes registering on one side, don't put the bolts in yet, but put a small screw driver through each hole and get to the other side to try and register the holes. Only after that, you put in the bolts on each side. In this way you can still move the holes against each other with a screwdriver through it, to register the holes again after that you have put bolts through the holes on the other side.

I've done this all a few weeks ago.

Good luck!

Edited by Wim Fournier, 26 June 2017 - 12:44 PM.

[Wim Fournier]

I always 'secure' the engine from falling down into the subframe, because it could cost me a finger, or two.

Working on my own with no one in my neighbourhood, I always take the most precautions as possible.

Befor I upper a finger between the engine block and the subframe, I take the precaution by uppering a block of wood there and lower the engine block so that the wood sits tight. Use always your brains first and after that your hands.

[AeroNotix]

Right. I've gone ahead and started doing this myself. 

 

I've managed to remove the old engine mount that was quite literally split in two. Rather comical. 

 

My method:

 

• Undo all engine steadies
• Jack up the side to be removed under the engine with a block of wood
• Undo subframe bolts
• Undo gearbox bracket bolts
• Slide out bracket
• Attach new engine mount to bracket
• Attach bracket to gearbox
• Wibble wobble the everliving BLEEP out of it to get the holes lined up
• Swear
• question life
• Finally get one bolt lined up enough to slip the bolt through
• Do that side up loose
• Attempt the other side
• Give up and drink beer

 

The bolt I am having trouble with is the more rearward bolt, the front bolt is relatively easily slipped in. How/Where is the angle of attack for the rearward bolt? Lets just assume I have it lined up. How am I supposed to get my meathooks to even put the bolt in? Starting to think I should just weld the nut on the inside at this point. 

[minimans]

I use a coat hanger bent at the end into a u shape that will just grip the bolt, you can then feed this up into the mount hole after aligning the holes with a screw driver from the outside. after the bolt is through the hole just just push the wire up and out.

Edited by minimans, 28 June 2017 - 11:30 PM.

[AeroNotix]

Not a bad idea! Keep 'em coming. 

 

Now.. to raid the wife's wardrobe. Don't think I've seen a wire coat hanger in years!

[MacGyver]

Use a fork...but Not the silver ones!

[AeroNotix]

Mainly my issue is my meathooks not being slender enough to even get it in. Also doing this solo is a bit tricky! I have found a comrade to help me tomorrow if I don't manage today, however.

[AeroNotix]

I did it! 
 

Lots of messing around but she's finally in. 

 

Here's a couple of pics of the old one with a new mount side-by-side for comparison: 

 

https://goo.gl/photo...oVfKc7EZHod4iQ9

https://goo.gl/photo...KPWXhc5MmvcrRv7

 

So yeah, driving on a completely split engine mount is not fun and I would advise against it!

 

Now, on to change the other side :)

[Rorf]

Well done and snap on the drill

[wile e coyote]

Fun wasn't it?? Now go and do the other one and then make sure your steady bar bushes are all good...if not replace them... Or you'll be doing engine mounts again shortly!!!!

[AeroNotix]

Well done and snap on the drill

 

It's not Snap-On. It's one of the budget brands here in Poland "Dexter" I am sure it's a rebranded something or other you would get elsewhere. I have a Makita that I really like but the Dexter is battery powered, at least. It's woefully lacking in torque though!

 

Fun wasn't it?? Now go and do the other one and then make sure your steady bar bushes are all good...if not replace them... Or you'll be doing engine mounts again shortly!!!!

 

Fun is one way to describe it!

 

One thing no-one mentioned to me is to remove the horn! Far more room with just removing that simple piece.

 

I've started on the other today but at least thankfully I will have a comrade to help with that side. I've been poking around the clutch side. Not a lot of room! And not a bracket I can remove unless you count removing the clutch housing. I've got the ECU, air scoop and a few other bits and pieces out the way to give me more room.

 

As for the steadies, it's funny you mention as the front lower steady's bolt had fell out whilst driving and I did about 150km without it while I found time to go get a bolt for it. Likely contributed to the downfall of the mounts! I've ordered replacement bushings for every steady and ordered the additional gearbox mounts too, just in case. I know the additional gearbox mounts might not be strictly necessary but will see how they fare.

Also looking into adding the SPI "Ultimate" engine steady.

[Wim Fournier]

Well; you've don it! Its obvious that the new one is a lot thicker then the old ones were.  When you do the other side the same time, you will find out that the holes won't register in a 'century'. So keep it to one side a time.