10 replies to this topic

[Sprok]

All 4 corners of my floor are shot thinking of a complete new floor panel from mini spares. Has anyone experience with this at all ? Any tips or advice please ? Was thinking of getting a rotisserie to help ?

Bracing will be crucial I know but if anyone has done this I'd appreciate any other info that could help me out ?

Thanks.

[Daz1968]

I have fitted a new floor assembly from m machine and it has been the easiest restoration I have done, once floor is in everything else just falls into place. This was the full floor with heel board crossmember and sills already spot welded in position.
You can't see my build thread though now due to Photobucket. Bracing was pretty easy just linked a and b posts and a brace across door openings.
I didn't put mine on the spit until the underside was finished as I used a spirit level to help with alignment along with string and tape measure and it has all worked out fine.
There are plenty of build threads showing full replacement

[SolarB]

Hi Sprok.

I put a new floor in mine rather than patch the old one, best decision I made on the restoration. I built a spit and this made the fitting of the floor pretty simple. It takes a while and a few pounds to make a spit but I sold it for more than the material cost me and I'd highly recommend building or buying one. If you go the spit route connect the two A frames together as this make the whole assembly a lot more rigid. I bolted the A frames to a couple of scaffold boards and then mounted the spit on a set of heavy duty castors to allow me to move the thing around.

As for bracing, I welded bars across each of the lower door apertures (front to rear) and a cross bar connecting the two door bars together (capital H shape). This proved enough to prevent the shell from sagging while the floor was out. One point to remember is to check the shell is straight before welding in the bracing bars. No point in keeping a bent shell bent.

[Sprok]

Great points. To check the shell measurements does anyone have access to body measurements i.e. What they're supposed to be ? Before I start?

Thank you

[Daz1968]

The measurements are in the factory workshop manual

[Sprok]

Thanks Daz. I'll try and get hold of one of those somewhere

[Daz1968]

The information with manual downloads is on the mk1 forum,

[Sprok]

Brilliant cheers

[Zeemax_Mini]

Just as a heads up, I'm in the middle of replacing my entire floor, with the car well braced and upside down on a rotisserie. My comment would be to trust the whole from assembly from m-machine...ours wouldn't fit quite properly at the front despite being mounted on the rear subframe and looking right elsewhere. We started knocking the front of the floor assembly about to make it fit, but then had a brainwave and realised the toeboard had actually moved whilst the car has been on the rotisserie, and that letting the weight off the car actually moved the toeboard forward and surprise surprise the floor assembly then fitted perfectly!

 

Dom

[Daz1968]

I can agree with above comments, I started with my floor and subframes, checked all measurements to ensure subframes in correct place then put the body onto this, My old floor was made of 6 pieces so chances are it wasn't perfect so I as above trusted the floor from M machine and it has fitted very well, door alignment better than before as well,

[FlyingScot]

The m-machine product is constructed / checked on a jig with the correct dimensions.

As above if it doesn't fit, better to adjust your shell to the floor rather than the reverse

FS