18 replies to this topic

[Rusty1182]

Hi All

iv read some topics on here regarding suspension and how its best to stick to STD ride hight as lowerd ruins the mini.

what changes can i do to create the most sticky high speed conering setup for the road.

i was thinking 10" wheels and standard ride hight.

would you use standard or aftermarket shocks?

thanks

Ant

[Cooperman]

I posted the ideal set up for a road Mini a while ago.
Do a search on here.

[Ethel]

Probably not build for the most high speed cornering. You need confidence in a car to drive it quickly and safely so predictable handling is the way.

[nicklouse]

the problem with the Mini is that stick to the road is not the fastest (or the safest),

 

the Mini likes to slide. watch and Miglia/7 race.

 

for stick to the road then yes dropping it and adding some neg camber and sticky slicks will do this but you risk rolling it as it will not slide.

[Cooperman]

Set the ride height to standard.
Solid mount the front sub-frame.
Fit adjustable tie bars.
Use 165 section Yokohamas on 10" or 12" wheels with wheels no wider than 5".
For damping use either a set of KYB Gas Adjust or Spax or GAZ adjustables.
Set front toe-out to 1 mm.
Fit 1.5 degree negative camber lower arms.

On the rear set zero to -0.5 degrees negative with 1 mm to 2 mm toe in.

Ensure all suspension bushes are in good condition.

I hope this helps. If done it will give good road-holding combined with excellent handling.

Once done do not drive faster than you know how to .

Edited by Cooperman, 24 July 2017 - 06:48 PM.

[minimans]

Set the ride height to standard.
Solid mount the front sub-frame.
Fit adjustable tie bars.
Use 165 section Yokohamas on 10" or 12" wheels with wheels no wider than 5".
For damping use either a set of KYB Gas Adjust or Spax or GAZ adjustables.
Set front toe-out to 1 mm.
Fit 1.5 degree negative camber top arms.

On the rear set zero to -0.5 degrees negative with 1 mm to 2 mm toe in.

Ensure all suspension bushes are in good condition.

I hope this helps. If done it will give good road-holding combined with excellent handling.

Once done do not drive faster than you know how to .

I think you mean 1.5 lower arms?

[Cooperman]

I do indeed, my mistake, Sorry!

 

Edited to correct.

[Alice Dooper]

Set the ride height to standard.
Solid mount the front sub-frame.
Fit adjustable tie bars.
Use 165 section Yokohamas on 10" or 12" wheels with wheels no wider than 5".
For damping use either a set of KYB Gas Adjust or Spax or GAZ adjustables.
Set front toe-out to 1 mm.
Fit 1.5 degree negative camber lower arms.
On the rear set zero to -0.5 degrees negative with 1 mm to 2 mm toe in.
Ensure all suspension bushes are in good condition.
I hope this helps. If done it will give good road-holding combined with excellent handling.
Once done do not drive faster than you know how to .

Once again, your knowledge and experience is brilliant Cooperman and well appreciated. I have an MPI Sportpack and therefore have 13’ x 6’ wheels, 165 section tyres and with a factory standard 10 or 8mm spacer on the rear drum. Would these settings still be appropriate or would you suggest anything different.

I know the wheel size really impacts on the brilliance and fun of the original design.

[Rusty1182]

Thanks All for your help. :) 

[Rusty1182]

If i have standard cones and turrets. i guess my mini will be at standard height

[Cooperman]

Set the ride height to standard.
Solid mount the front sub-frame.
Fit adjustable tie bars.
Use 165 section Yokohamas on 10" or 12" wheels with wheels no wider than 5".
For damping use either a set of KYB Gas Adjust or Spax or GAZ adjustables.
Set front toe-out to 1 mm.
Fit 1.5 degree negative camber lower arms.
On the rear set zero to -0.5 degrees negative with 1 mm to 2 mm toe in.
Ensure all suspension bushes are in good condition.
I hope this helps. If done it will give good road-holding combined with excellent handling.
Once done do not drive faster than you know how to .

Once again, your knowledge and experience is brilliant Cooperman and well appreciated. I have an MPI Sportpack and therefore have 13 x 6 wheels, 165 section tyres and with a factory standard 10 or 8mm spacer on the rear drum. Would these settings still be appropriate or would you suggest anything different.

I know the wheel size really impacts on the brilliance and fun of the original design.

With 13" wheels it is best to have no more than 0.75 degrees negative on the front and zero neg camber on the rear.

Toe and caster should be as stated and it can be an improvement if the ride height is raised by 1/2" to improve total available suspension travel.

[Alice Dooper]

Set the ride height to standard.
Solid mount the front sub-frame.
Fit adjustable tie bars.
Use 165 section Yokohamas on 10" or 12" wheels with wheels no wider than 5".
For damping use either a set of KYB Gas Adjust or Spax or GAZ adjustables.
Set front toe-out to 1 mm.
Fit 1.5 degree negative camber lower arms.
On the rear set zero to -0.5 degrees negative with 1 mm to 2 mm toe in.
Ensure all suspension bushes are in good condition.
I hope this helps. If done it will give good road-holding combined with excellent handling.
Once done do not drive faster than you know how to .

Once again, your knowledge and experience is brilliant Cooperman and well appreciated. I have an MPI Sportpack and therefore have 13 x 6 wheels, 165 section tyres and with a factory standard 10 or 8mm spacer on the rear drum. Would these settings still be appropriate or would you suggest anything different.
I know the wheel size really impacts on the brilliance and fun of the original design.

With 13" wheels it is best to have no more than 0.75 degrees negative on the front and zero neg camber on the rear.
Toe and caster should be as stated and it can be an improvement if the ride height is raised by 1/2" to improve total available suspension travel.

Thanks.

Tried increasing the ride height and yes it deffinately helped. Fitted GAZ dampers and they helped too, the unsprung weight is just enough more with the bigger wheels to annoy things.

It’s never simple explaining the difference between handling and sticking to the road like a limpit. It’s the feel and handling that is a great part of the Mini’s unique charm.

[Cooperman]

The way I explain the difference between road-holding and handling is:

Road-holding is the numerical centripetal force which the car can generate at specific speeds on specific bend radii.

Handling is the way the car responds to the main dynamic inputs of steering, braking and the application of power during all phases of driving.

It is possible to have a car with poor relative road-holding but with superb handling. The best example I can think of is a Ford Escort Mk1 or Mk2 being driven on a tarmac road when fitted with forest-type tyres.

[Rusty1182]

im just looking into 12 - 10 inch brake conversion kits 

is there any difference between the standard Cooper s calipers and at AP ones.

 

And would it be worth changing the bearings and ball joints at eh same time?

[dyshipfakta]

I would do the ball joint for sure. Bearings I would probably roll the dice as they are expensive and aren't that difficult if you have to pop the hub off in the future.