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Brakes Sticking On After Replacing Master Cylinder


Best Answer Sask_Mini , 24 July 2017 - 09:48 PM

I did know that the brake circuits were reversed with the new yellow tag master cylinder.  I double and triple checked that when I fitted the lines, the lower union with the larger port is connected to the rear brakes and the the upper union is connected to the front.  It is a front/rear split system.  

 

The brake hoses aren't new, but having all 4 hoses collapse simultaneously is a bit of a stretch since the brakes stick at all 4 corners.  

 

I read some old posts (mainly by tiger99) and he stated several times that there are actual shims that you can purchase that were made specifically to raise the master cylinder.  So I figured missing that gasket just may make the difference.  

 

I really dont' see what else could be the problem, sure seems to me like the pedal is hitting its stop and not allowing the master cylinder rod to drop far enough to return to its "home" position.  It also seems like the brakes get incrementally more stuck the more I pump the pedal.  Raising the master cylinder up and allowing that rod to drop further down always releases that built up pressure.  

 

I haven't checked to see if the brake switch/stop can be adjusted.  Is this stop adjustable?  

 

Edit:  Went out to the garage to check a few more things.  Tried adjusting the brake switch/stop to see if that would let the pedal travel back a little further and it seemed to help.  But....while I was under there I noticed that the part of the pedal that holds the clevis pin actually hits the sheet metal and that is what limits how far back the pedal can travel.  I imagine this isn't normal?  The clutch pedal seems to do the same thing, rests on the sheet metal.  

 

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#16 Avtovaz

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 07:45 PM

Yes, the master has to return its full stroke, there is a port to let fluid equilise? in the system, that is how the fluid gets in when you easy bleed it etc, but if the master is a big lower, the port will be blocked. If you then drive the car, the brake fluid expands, and locks the brakes on.

 

I dont know what fliud by the way peopel recomend on here, but ATE Super 200 is very cheep, and is very good fluid, if it was twice the price it would still be cheep.



#17 Spider

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 08:40 PM


I am guessing this problem came about because of the pedal type that is in the car?  .  

 

It wouldn't be from the pedal, just manufacturing tolerances, hence why the quantity in the parts book as 'A/R' (as required).



#18 Ethel

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 08:57 PM

My experience is that the pedal will lift as high as the spring will lift it (lots) with the clevis pin removed. Obviously if that isn't happening you may well have found your problem. Might be worth checking nobody's stuck something in that's holding the pedal box lower than it should be.

 

Fluids have got less critical than they used to be, just don't mix silicone with glycol. Run of the mill Dot 4 is fine. 



#19 Avtovaz

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Posted 25 July 2017 - 09:13 PM

run of the mill stuff is not fine imho..

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...uAAAOSwNE5YW5Ty

 

£15 A LITRE,  i run this in my bmw rally car, and i cant see how any other fluid is cheaper? It must be made in massive quantities to make that fluid that price... i used a few expensive types before...

 

 

My rally car , it was a dry system, it runs motorsport abs, so lots of aux pipe work compared to a mini, with 1ltr, i bled the system from dry..

 

 

I believe this to be the ate recommended fluid for all their systems, i know that s now classic mini, but it isnt dear, it is fantastic quality for discount price, cheaper than halfords special fluid or any of the likes...


Edited by Avtovaz, 25 July 2017 - 09:15 PM.


#20 Sask_Mini

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Posted 26 July 2017 - 02:53 AM

 


I am guessing this problem came about because of the pedal type that is in the car?  .  

 

It wouldn't be from the pedal, just manufacturing tolerances, hence why the quantity in the parts book as 'A/R' (as required).

 

 

Yeah that makes sense, I will just fit a shim and quit thinking about it.  That being said, I did spend half an hour the other night searching for a place that sells the factory shims and I wasn't able to find anybody.  Somerfords listed the part on their site but said it was discontinued.  



#21 tiger99

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 12:13 PM

The shims are made in two halves to make them easy to fit without removing the clevis pin. See the Somerford web site.

If you make your own, just make something the size and shape of the M/C mounting flange or very slightly larger, with a centre bore just sufficient to fit, and cut it in half. To keep engine fumes out of the car, gaskets should be fitted, and blobs of silicone sealant where the two half shims meet.

#22 Sask_Mini

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Posted 28 July 2017 - 01:22 AM

Thanks Tiger99, that is some good advice.  






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