Cleaning Old Rusty Block And Head
Best Answer whistler , 29 August 2017 - 02:37 PM
I ended up using the electrolytic method for the block and head and it was quite successful. Big water tank (e. attic water tank). Put block in. Fill up to cover with buckets of water. Add 1 tablespoon of Washing Soda (not Bicarb) per 4 litres of water. Used an old garden spade blade as a negative, lead to -ve battery. +ve battery to block connection and cook slowly for a few days. Looks like oxtail soup after a few hours. It removed enough rust that with a wire brush afterwards you could see bare metal.
Just make sure the spade (-ve) doesn't touch the block. I used a brick as a spacer. Space age technology.
I used a 12v charger across the battery to keep the juice flowing.
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#1
Posted 16 August 2017 - 10:01 AM
#2
Posted 16 August 2017 - 10:32 AM
Ideally you need two tanks, but maybe able to get away with one.
Caustic is awesome for removing paint, grease and general crud but it won't budge rust at all. You can get it quite cheap in granular form from the hardware for mixing with water. It will work cold, but if you heat it, it really works better and quicker. I run my tank around 80 degrees.
You can to a large degree get by without the caustic tank and just use manual methods of cleaning paint off and degreaser for removing the oil & most of the crud.
The other tank you probably will need is an Acid Tank. I use Phosphoric Acid in this one, it eats rust, usually a block only needs 5 - 20 minutes in this tank. What what you put in it as it can do harm if left too long. Also, don't put hardened parts in to it, as they'll be ruined in minutes.I'd suggest putting only 'clean' parts in to the acid as it quickly becomes diluted with just about anything.
Naturally you'll need to thoroughly wash between these cylces, especially as the caustic is alkali it will ruin the acid. You'll also want proper PPE (face shield, apron, gloves) too.
I recently tried a commercial product called Evap-o-rust. I found it worked, but was slow and quite expensive, especially as 5 litres only did one block and had lost it's 'zing'.
#3
Posted 16 August 2017 - 11:20 AM
#4
Posted 16 August 2017 - 11:37 AM
This is from Graham Russell at Russell Engineering in one of his articles
"Starting with the block, it should be chemically cleaned to remove as much of the rust and rubbish from the water ways and oil ways as possible. But, don’t forget to remove the two oil gallery plugs first to ensure everything that can be is cleaned out. Now, there is a cost-effective way to get rid of all the rust out of the block (and the cylinder head too) without any special high-tech tools. Simply mix up a solution of molasses and water (one part molasses to three parts water) in a plastic tub. If the mix is too thick to get into the water ways easily, you may need to thin it out a little with more water."
#5
Posted 16 August 2017 - 01:54 PM
Just go to a professional. it is not expensive and they know what to do. with the wrong method you contaminate your engine with particles or you harm the enviroment with nasty waste water.
#6
Posted 16 August 2017 - 03:25 PM
Is this the type of Molasses to use?This is from Graham Russell at Russell Engineering in one of his articles
"Starting with the block, it should be chemically cleaned to remove as much of the rust and rubbish from the water ways and oil ways as possible. But, don’t forget to remove the two oil gallery plugs first to ensure everything that can be is cleaned out. Now, there is a cost-effective way to get rid of all the rust out of the block (and the cylinder head too) without any special high-tech tools. Simply mix up a solution of molasses and water (one part molasses to three parts water) in a plastic tub. If the mix is too thick to get into the water ways easily, you may need to thin it out a little with more water."[/size]
http://www.hollandan...NxoCXv4QAvD_BwE
#7
Posted 16 August 2017 - 03:32 PM
#8
Posted 16 August 2017 - 03:40 PM
I'm watching this thread with interest to be honest
#9
Posted 16 August 2017 - 04:22 PM
Mine was cleaned for fee, but it was painted not powder coated so maybe that's where the cost comes in.My local mini specialist charges minimum £1k for an engine deep clean and powder coat
I'm watching this thread with interest to be honest
Edited by Hewlett_T, 16 August 2017 - 04:23 PM.
#10
Posted 16 August 2017 - 04:36 PM
Maybe, but that's a still a heck of a minimum fee for doing itMine was cleaned for fee, but it was painted not powder coated so maybe that's where the cost comes in.My local mini specialist charges minimum £1k for an engine deep clean and powder coat
I'm watching this thread with interest to be honest
Edit: it's also worth bearing in mind you can buy a new engine (might be reconditioned I'm unsure) for less
Edited by Laurie, 16 August 2017 - 04:39 PM.
#11
Posted 16 August 2017 - 04:48 PM
£1000 to clean and paint an engine!!!? Wow!
#12
Posted 16 August 2017 - 04:56 PM
£1000 to clean and paint an engine!!!? Wow!
Minimum ;)
#13
Posted 16 August 2017 - 06:57 PM
£1000 to clean and paint an engine!!!? Wow!
Minimum ;)
Hmmm,,,, maybe shop around,,,,,,,
My local guy charges $60 for a Hot and Cold tanking,,,, that's about 30 quid,,,,,,
and I doubt powder coating is a good idea, none the less, I can't see 970 quid in it.
Maybe he wasn't just talking about these processes but also all machining? (still sounds dear though)
#14
Posted 16 August 2017 - 07:07 PM
Minimum ;)£1000 to clean and paint an engine!!!? Wow!
Hmmm,,,, maybe shop around,,,,,,,
My local guy charges $60 for a Hot and Cold tanking,,,, that's about 30 quid,,,,,,
and I doubt powder coating is a good idea, none the less, I can't see 970 quid in it.
Maybe he wasn't just talking about these processes but also all machining? (still sounds dear though)
This is the price from a local mini specialist, granted the price does include pulling the engine in and out but, and I quote:
"
As for a price for powder coating the engine, they normally turn out at around £1000.00 INC V.A.T this includes removing and refitting the engine.
Please bear in mind that it is fairly difficult to quote to powder coat a engine as when we have the engine out and start dissecting it we could find issues internally within the engine."
Which in turn pushes the price yet higher
The next nearest mini specialist is Somerfords, who I found unbelievably rude on the phone.
#15
Posted 16 August 2017 - 07:10 PM
Sounds like someone is trying to extract a lot of money from you.This is the price from a local mini specialist, granted the price does include pulling the engine in and out but, and I quote:
Minimum ;)£1000 to clean and paint an engine!!!? Wow!
Hmmm,,,, maybe shop around,,,,,,,
My local guy charges $60 for a Hot and Cold tanking,,,, that's about 30 quid,,,,,,
and I doubt powder coating is a good idea, none the less, I can't see 970 quid in it.
Maybe he wasn't just talking about these processes but also all machining? (still sounds dear though)
"
As for a price for powder coating the engine, they normally turn out at around £1000.00 INC V.A.T this includes removing and refitting the engine.
Please bear in mind that it is fairly difficult to quote to powder coat a engine as when we have the engine out and start dissecting it we could find issues internally within the engine."
Which in turn pushes the price yet higher
The next nearest mini specialist is Somerfords, who I found unbelievably rude on the phone.
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