12 replies to this topic

[sam138]

Just fitted a Cooper 1275 engine in which has had a new MED verto clutch assembly fitted but something is whining whilst driving . Just wondering what this could be ? Does the clutch arm need adjusting up as it doesn't feel great after bleeding up and grinds into reverse and very low pedal . It's a refreshed short block engine with new rings bearings etc .

Driving along it will whine in first gear at low speed and In 2/3rd gear and when you slow down you start to hear the noise and upon acceleration and changing up gears from 1st to 3rd.

If it's a diff or idler gear can I do this with out the engine coming out ?

Edited by sam138, 19 August 2017 - 01:25 PM.

[sledgehammer]

I'm no expert ,

 

the whine sounds like a layshaft problem , hence quiet in 4th ? (when layshaft has no real load on it)

 

also check engine mounts aren't soft / worn , I have in the past had soft engine mounts touching together when engine under load

 

but that isn't gradual , also weak steady bar bush , can do the same

 

& sounds like clutch arm / pivot  needs adjustment / slave needs another bleed ,

 

check nothing fouling bottom of pedal travel (less likely)

Edited by sledgehammer, 19 August 2017 - 01:58 PM.

[sam138]

Thanks for th reply , I'll have ago at adjusting the clutch up and bleeding again . The gearbox whine is loudest at point of changing gear which lead me to be leave idler gears ? It will whine in 4th at low speeds but disappears after at higher speed (30-40mph ) .

[sledgehammer]

 The gearbox whine is loudest at point of changing gear which lead me to be leave idler gears ? It will whine in 4th at low speeds but disappears after at higher speed (30-40mph ) .

 

I could be wrong then - I wouldn't expect it to whine at all in 4th as the power isn't going thru the lay shaft - but layshaft is still being turned , so maybe a little noise

 

idler gears are easier to get at & can be done with engine in - so lets hope it is them
 

you could just imagine you have straight cut gears & live with it a while

 

also how much crank end float do you have ? 

 

& does noise change much with clutch depressed ?

[greenwheels]

Thanks for th reply , I'll have ago at adjusting the clutch up and bleeding again . The gearbox whine is loudest at point of changing gear which lead me to be leave idler gears ? It will whine in 4th at low speeds but disappears after at higher speed (30-40mph ) .

"The gearbox whine is loudest at point of changing gear" - suggests clutch release bearing collapsing to me.

[sam138]

The crank end float measured 5-6thou upon fitting new washer . The clutch release bearing has been changed as has the engine mounts and steady bar bushes . The noise does go when the clutch is depressed. I'll try upload a video of driving it to show the noise .

Is the idler gear bearing easy to change as the clutch is new making it easy to remove again ? Would it be just the idler gear bearing or is their other bearings to replace in the transfer case ?

Edited by sam138, 19 August 2017 - 06:52 PM.

[AeroNotix]

A video/audio sample of the noise would be very helpful.

[MrBounce]

I remember when my idler gear went south it sounded like I had straight cut drops. Mind you it was totally banjoed...

[Ethel]

I'd start the investigations with the clutch, easier and cheaper. I've seen Vertos struggle just because the slave cylinder bracket isn't bolted down  properly, likewise wear in lever and/or plunger will contribute.

 

A failed release bearing will likely sound different depending on how much pressure you're putting on it with the pedal.

 

Transfer idlers could sound worse under load. Under overrun they should sound a lot better as the helical gears will be "screwing" them in the opposite direction - not in to the gearbox.

 

4th gear is better all round as the 1st and 3rd motion shafts are locked together with a big  bearing at each end. The needle bearing between them no longer needs to turn, the layshaft bearings do still turn, but the lack of load means the layshaft is less likely to try and climb out of position if its bearing are worn.

[sam138]

With the clutch adjustment is this done via the large bolt on the end of the clutch housing ? Looking through the Haynes manual it needs setting within in a set tolerance with a feeler gauge ? But looking online verto's seem not to need adjusting ?

[Ethel]

The big nut is the "throw out stop", it limits how far the  clutch can be pushed to disengage - useful to save your crank thrust bearings, but doesn't alter the operation of the clutch.

 

You're right that Vertos don't need adjusting. On Pre-Vertos there's a bolt under the arm that just stops the return spring pulling it back more than is necessary.

[sam138]

Thanks I'll try adjusting the throw out stop tonight . I've attached a picture of the current position of the throw out nut . Should this be touching the case even with out being depressed ?

Attached Files

•  IMG_3195.JPG   47.9K   10 downloads

[Its a min]

Adjust the throw out to 6.5mm from wok. Then tighten the lock nut tight against the throw out stop to stop it from moving. To make it easier than using feeler gauges, I filed down a piece of wood to the right size (6.5mm) and used this for measuring.