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L33 Ejb Lower Spotlights


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#1 warning634

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Posted 24 August 2017 - 09:20 PM

Hi guys

I was looking over some pictures today of L33 EJB which competed in the 94 Monte Carlo rally, and I notice that along with the fitted lamp pod, it also had fitted two spot lamps, they where fitted much further out, almost covering the front indicators and you had them pointing across each other, so the left hand light pointing right etc, I guess I help with lighting up the corners, while turning. Any one know what lamps these where? And would they have been a flood or driving beam pattern.

Cheers

Kevin

https://www.google.j...87555945738479/

#2 minifreek1

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 04:13 PM

Id have thought these would be flood/driving lamps and not spot lamps... need to possibly find a picture of them uncovered to look at the lenses...



#3 warning634

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 05:38 PM

L33%20EJB%20FULL%20VIEW.jpg?m=1303244662



#4 minifreek1

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Posted 27 August 2017 - 11:02 AM

In the above picture, the spotlights that are angled look to me like floodlights....



#5 whistler

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Posted 27 August 2017 - 11:24 AM

If they're meant to be used as cornering lights and not just for show then they should be fog lights. They are too small really; should be 7 inch.

#6 mr cooke

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Posted 27 August 2017 - 02:48 PM

Need 2 alternators run all of them 



#7 Cooperman

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 03:15 PM

You just need one good alternator of around 70 amps.

 

The 3 main driving lights will be 100 watts each plus the headlights of 55 watts each. Plus the two cornering lights of 55 watts which makes 520 watts. Add another 50 watts for all the other electrical stuff in a rally car and that takes it all to 570 watts. Divide by 12 and that means the alternator will need to be in excess of 50 amps. So a 70 amp will do fine even with everything switched on and the alternator running at working speed.

 

However, it is unlikely that all the lights will be on at once, even on a special stage.

 

Those cornering lights are too small to be of much use really.



#8 whistler

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 04:18 PM

You just need one good alternator of around 70 amps.
 
The 3 main driving lights will be 100 watts each plus the headlights of 55 watts each. Plus the two cornering lights of 55 watts which makes 520 watts. Add another 50 watts for all the other electrical stuff in a rally car and that takes it all to 570 watts. Divide by 12 and that means the alternator will need to be in excess of 50 amps. So a 70 amp will do fine even with everything switched on and the alternator running at working speed.
 
However, it is unlikely that all the lights will be on at once, even on a special stage.
 
Those cornering lights are too small to be of much use really.

How did we manage with 2 Cibies,2 700s and headlights main and dip relayed together with a dynamo? I know. A flat battery at halfway, and I was using a 110Ah battery.

#9 Cooperman

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 07:09 PM

 

You just need one good alternator of around 70 amps.
 
The 3 main driving lights will be 100 watts each plus the headlights of 55 watts each. Plus the two cornering lights of 55 watts which makes 520 watts. Add another 50 watts for all the other electrical stuff in a rally car and that takes it all to 570 watts. Divide by 12 and that means the alternator will need to be in excess of 50 amps. So a 70 amp will do fine even with everything switched on and the alternator running at working speed.
 
However, it is unlikely that all the lights will be on at once, even on a special stage.
 
Those cornering lights are too small to be of much use really.

How did we manage with 2 Cibies,2 700s and headlights main and dip relayed together with a dynamo? I know. A flat battery at halfway, and I was using a 110Ah battery.

 

Those were the days! We used to ration the use of the spotlights/cornering lights and try to re-charge the battery a bit at the end of non-competitive sections by sitting there with 2500 rpm on the tacho for a few minutes.

Then along came the wonderful alternator and our problems just went away. 



#10 whistler

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 07:36 AM

You just need one good alternator of around 70 amps.
 
The 3 main driving lights will be 100 watts each plus the headlights of 55 watts each. Plus the two cornering lights of 55 watts which makes 520 watts. Add another 50 watts for all the other electrical stuff in a rally car and that takes it all to 570 watts. Divide by 12 and that means the alternator will need to be in excess of 50 amps. So a 70 amp will do fine even with everything switched on and the alternator running at working speed.
 
However, it is unlikely that all the lights will be on at once, even on a special stage.
 
Those cornering lights are too small to be of much use really.

Those were the days! We used to ration the use of the spotlights/cornering lights and try to re-charge the battery a bit at the end of non-competitive sections by sitting there with 2500 rpm on the tacho for a few minutes.
Then along came the wonderful alternator and our problems just went away.

Dare I mention the little switch for turning off the rear lights on Selectives to save battery? I did a selective on eppynt with my navigator using the Helphos as the battery was that low I had to switch all the lights off as the engine was missing.

Edited by whistler, 29 August 2017 - 07:38 AM.


#11 Cooperman

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 09:08 PM

We had switches to turn off the brake lights and turn on the brake lights. 

 

I can recall in the pre-alternator days, turning all the lights off except the two driving/spot lights and turning off the brake lights when the battery got too low. We even turned off the instrument panel lights leaving just the navigator's electrics on.

 

Rallying sure was challenging back then.



#12 warning634

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Posted 30 August 2017 - 07:03 AM

Cheers guys

Well I have a 70amp alternator fitted and my lamp pod is fitted with hid, so no issues there

What spot lights would you guys recommend to light up the corners?

Cheers

#13 whistler

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Posted 30 August 2017 - 10:15 AM

We had switches to turn off the brake lights and turn on the brake lights. 
 
I can recall in the pre-alternator days, turning all the lights off except the two driving/spot lights and turning off the brake lights when the battery got too low. We even turned off the instrument panel lights leaving just the navigator's electrics on.
 
Rallying sure was challenging back then.

Sure was. That was the fun of it then for a Clubman anyway. The challenge back then was to finish with all the bits still on or in the car.

Edited by whistler, 30 August 2017 - 10:16 AM.


#14 86mayfair

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Posted 05 November 2017 - 01:23 PM

It might be worth asking on the Mini Cooper Register forum if you've not found an answer. I know a member has a replica (L333 EJB) so there's a good chance he might know, and in general the users are a mine of information on ex works cars



#15 whistler

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Posted 05 November 2017 - 01:47 PM

We had switches to turn off the brake lights and turn on the brake lights. 
 
I can recall in the pre-alternator days, turning all the lights off except the two driving/spot lights and turning off the brake lights when the battery got too low. We even turned off the instrument panel lights leaving just the navigator's electrics on.
 
Rallying sure was challenging back then.

I fitted a large orange oil pressure light on the dash, for when the instrument lights were off. Had a 30 psi switch fitted as well as I couldn't see the oil pressure gauge easily.




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