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Mini Wont Start.

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Best Answer cyoshg , 07 September 2017 - 10:07 PM

Hi all, thanks for your input and recommendations! really appreciated.

 

OK so you'll be please to know I got her started! and was over the Moon! the dishwasher repair man (who used to be a mechanic and knows Mini's - stroke of luck), happened to see me messing around in the garage, took a look and showed me what to do. 

 

Changed all the leads, plugs, coil, took the carb off cleaned, no sticky needle, float working, checked the petrol pump, pumping like a good un.. checked all the breather pipes, all fine, checked spark, nice and white and strong... what happened is when I changed the starter motor must have knocked the dizzy out, so as soon as I loosened the bolt and swivelled it 1/4 of an inch, she started no problem back to normal... unbelievable.. I've just ordered a strobe light to get it spot on, will re-adjust the points.

 

Thanks again..

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#1 cyoshg

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Posted 02 September 2017 - 03:33 PM

Hi all, newbie here looking for a little advice please - just bought a classic Mini last year.

 

Mini Thirty 1989 (998cc)

 

My Mini has been well looked after all its life, but its started playing up as soon as I have tinkered with it....

 

I changed the starter motor, lots of wire around that area.. and replaced the exhaust with Play downpipe / Maniflow from the standard pipe, lots of moving pipes etc to get it tightened up - since then it ran fine but gradually has reduced to only a tick over and would cut out spluttering when revved. It wont even fire now.

 

I've changed the coil, leads, plugs, cleaned the dizzy - no go. I'm wondering if i've knocked something taking the starter out? when i turn it over i can smell petrol out from the back of the exhaust? any ideas? fuel pump?

 

 

Would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Chris 



#2 DeanP

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Posted 02 September 2017 - 06:47 PM

Did it start before you changed all the leads etc? I concerned you may have got the firing order mixed up. But before we go there.

 

I would have traced back to what you moved/touched when you changed the exhaust system.

 

I guess you have lost the original manifold and now have the aluminium inlet attached.

 

Is the choke cable doing it's job correctly on the carb? You haven't accidentally unattached it and trying to start it with no choke?



#3 cyoshg

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Posted 03 September 2017 - 12:14 PM

Hi DeanP, thanks for help..

 

Did it start before you changed all the leads etc? It started (would tick over then would die if I tried to rev it)  I concerned you may have got the firing order mixed up. But before we go there. I was really careful on that, changed them one at a time.

 

I would have traced back to what you moved/touched when you changed the exhaust system. Yes i was banging the ratchet on the pipes into the float chamber to tighten the exhaust clamp as its a bugger to get too, not sure if this would have an effect..

 

I guess you have lost the original manifold and now have the aluminium inlet attached. It is the original manifold, just stuck the down pipe onto it (magic one)

 

Is the choke cable doing it's job correctly on the carb? You haven't accidentally unattached it and trying to start it with no choke? Yes, I've moved it back an forth and it seems OK, but will check that again.... Ive just checked the fuel pump, pulled the pipe off to the carb and it pumping like a good un on turnover, also pulled a spark plug out and its sparking....

 

After reading the Haynes, beginning to think about taking the carb off and checking the needle and float etc... Any other ideas, not sure about the engine vacuum or how it works?? could it be something to do with that?

 

thanks

Chris


Edited by cyoshg, 03 September 2017 - 12:17 PM.


#4 DeanP

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Posted 03 September 2017 - 01:14 PM

Before you start stripping down.

 

1) you have a spark. Is it a good one? For example if the spark plugs are clean and gapped correctly and new, the spark will be big, not a tiny spot. Are the plugs "coking" up? Could be point three if they are.

 

2) Is the dash pot full of oil and the plunger (when you unscrew the black lid and lift it out) needs pressure to push it down. Is the hole in the black cap clear? Car won't idle if this is empty of oil.

 

3) How old is the fuel you are pumping through? I've got two classics and both run like a pig coking up the plugs with your symptoms when the fuel goes off. If you clean the coke off, put the plugs back in, the car will start and after a few mins run like a pig, won't rev, stall and won't start again.


Edited by DeanP, 03 September 2017 - 01:20 PM.


#5 cyoshg

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Posted 03 September 2017 - 02:22 PM

Hi DeanP,

 

1) you have a spark. Is it a good one? For example if the spark plugs are clean and gapped correctly and new, the spark will be big, not a tiny spot. Are the plugs "coking" up? Could be point three if they are. I'm no expert - but it did look a weak spark to be honest. Certainly not big flashes, just little little ones, no there not coking up, the ones I took out were pretty clean too, i've gaped them as the ones that came out as I dont have a feeler gauge:(

 

2) Is the dash pot full of oil and the plunger (when you unscrew the black lid and lift it out) needs pressure to push it down. yes it needs pressure, its not full up of oil though, some in the bottom, by the way when it did just start (few days ago) to fire, for a brief second, there was blue'ish smoke from the carb area I think looking from inside the car..not sure if this is a red herring? Is the hole in the black cap clear? Hole, didnt know there was one, ill have an inspect and fill it up with oil (I got damper oil) Car won't idle if this is empty of oil.

 

3) How old is the fuel you are pumping through? I've got two classics and both run like a pig coking up the plugs with your symptoms when the fuel goes off. If you clean the coke off, put the plugs back in, the car will start and after a few mins run like a pig, won't rev, stall and won't start again. Fresh fuel from a few weeks ago. I normally take her for a spin every other weekend in the summer

 

 

Ok hole fine, filled dash pot, turned over, its really trying to start, fires, stops, fires stops, seem as soon as any gas is given it dies... got to be something simple here...


Edited by cyoshg, 03 September 2017 - 02:22 PM.


#6 DeanP

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Posted 03 September 2017 - 04:53 PM

Get some feeler gauges from toolstation or similar. It's the weak spark that could be your problem.

 

We need to eliminate the plugs being the problem.


Edited by DeanP, 03 September 2017 - 05:02 PM.


#7 cyoshg

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Posted 05 September 2017 - 04:55 PM

Hi, ok the plugs are set now, still no joy, I kept the choke on and it fired for about 10 secondw then died last night..

#8 DeanP

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Posted 05 September 2017 - 06:04 PM

Okay. So it's starting now.

 

Now you need to clean up the points with emory, reset the gap, clean up the rotor arm again with emory paper, clean up the contacts inside the cap and check the metal button at the top of the cap springs in and out.

 

When this is done pull out each lead one at a time and see if the cap is clean inside the connections, when you push the lead in make sure the metal connections sit in the cap properly.

 

Also check to make sure the lead into the coil is pushed in firmly.

 

When you have done this take another look at the spark and see if there is an improvement.

 

Apologies, if this sounds simple, but I guess we need to eliminate the simple stuff first.


Edited by DeanP, 05 September 2017 - 06:07 PM.


#9 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 04:40 AM

Hi Chris,

 

How old are the ignition items ?

 

Plugs, leads Distributor Cap, Rotor Arm, Points, Condenser ? Again, air filter, do you have a fuel filter ?

 

Sounds like it's half there, but not the full ticket. 

 

You need 3 main items, good fuel, good spark, and air. How old is the fuel, you say "well looked after in it's life", has this car stood a while with old fuel ?

 

I class old fuel if it has been in 3 months,  as todays modern fuels are really crap, it has a very low octane rate.

 

With all the previous worthy advise,  looking too at the carb float and making sure fuel is getting in and not running out of fuel through a stuck valve

 

Look at the leads to the coil the - and the +, are these a good or crap fit, and what is the condition of the leads with the connectors on ?

 

Take your time, and work through this all methodically, you will get there. Additionally, make sure the choke cable is activating that choke lever.

 

Good luck, Neil..



#10 David128

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 11:05 AM

did you remove inlet exhaust manifold or carb when changing exhaust ?  sounds a lot like an air leak



#11 cyoshg

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 10:07 PM   Best Answer

Hi all, thanks for your input and recommendations! really appreciated.

 

OK so you'll be please to know I got her started! and was over the Moon! the dishwasher repair man (who used to be a mechanic and knows Mini's - stroke of luck), happened to see me messing around in the garage, took a look and showed me what to do. 

 

Changed all the leads, plugs, coil, took the carb off cleaned, no sticky needle, float working, checked the petrol pump, pumping like a good un.. checked all the breather pipes, all fine, checked spark, nice and white and strong... what happened is when I changed the starter motor must have knocked the dizzy out, so as soon as I loosened the bolt and swivelled it 1/4 of an inch, she started no problem back to normal... unbelievable.. I've just ordered a strobe light to get it spot on, will re-adjust the points.

 

Thanks again..



#12 panky

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 10:10 PM

Well done, did he get time to fix the washing machine



#13 cyoshg

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 10:13 PM

LOL, yes he changed the dishwasher pump in about 5 minutes, more interested in tinkering with my Mini and a chin wag.. 



#14 DeanP

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Posted 08 September 2017 - 03:07 PM

Well done and a great learning experience for you.







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