I recall on different occasions jacking under the hub (which does get in the way somewhat) or applying the cone compressor so I could lift the hub by hand to get a suitable angle to get the bolt out. It is possible in most cases, but only just. And I would fully support previous opinions about the need for a couple of threads to be showing beyond the Nylok, as is normal practice in engineering.
Washers used here and in a number of other places (cylinder head being one) should be "through hardened" for best results. Although the bolt should be a good fit, the tension, when properly torqued, should be sufficient that the braking and acceleration loads are transferred by friction between the fork end and the lower arm lug, and that comes as a consequence of a high clamping force. The through hardened washers eliminate the tendency of the metal to cold flow and release clamping load, which would lead to chatter under load and fretting.
It took me nearly a lifetime to learn about some of these finer points, but they do agree with what I have seen regarding cold flow of washers. I found that you can get through hardened washers at http://www.westfield...Washer_USS.html
or https://shop.aseries...ge-of-hardware/
and bridge builders use them in larger sizes.