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Tie Bar Bolt


Best Answer nicklouse , 13 September 2017 - 11:24 AM

normally ball joint needs splitting.

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#31 tiger99

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 07:13 PM

I recall on different occasions jacking under the hub (which does get in the way somewhat) or applying the cone compressor so I could lift the hub by hand to get a suitable angle to get the bolt out. It is possible in most cases, but only just. And I would fully support previous opinions about the need for a couple of threads to be showing beyond the Nylok, as is normal practice in engineering.

 

Washers used here and in a number of other places (cylinder head being one) should be "through hardened" for best results. Although the bolt should be a good fit, the tension, when properly torqued, should be sufficient that the braking and acceleration loads are transferred by friction between the fork end and the lower arm lug, and that comes as a consequence of a high clamping force. The through hardened washers eliminate the tendency of the metal to cold flow and release clamping load, which would lead to chatter under load and fretting.

 

It took me nearly a lifetime to learn about some of these finer points, but they do agree with what I have seen regarding cold flow of washers. I found that you can get through hardened washers at  http://www.westfield...Washer_USS.html

 or https://shop.aseries...ge-of-hardware/

and bridge builders use them in larger sizes.



#32 imack

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 05:18 PM

Cooperman, bolt was flush with the top of the nyloc, couple of exposed threads with spring washer and plain nut, bolt is 1 1/2".
However, having looked at the bolt again I think the plain shank too short so I've ordered two new bolts from minispares.
I'll probably have to split the ball joints now to fit them!

You must let us know how you fit them.

I got the new correct tie bar bolts from minispares today, exactly the same length as my old bolts but with correct length plain shank. Jacked the car up, removed old bolts a replaced with new bolts in seconds, bolt in from the top, no ball joint splitting, no wheel removal, no tie bar bush removal.

#33 Northernpower

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 05:33 PM

Cooperman, bolt was flush with the top of the nyloc, couple of exposed threads with spring washer and plain nut, bolt is 1 1/2".
However, having looked at the bolt again I think the plain shank too short so I've ordered two new bolts from minispares.
I'll probably have to split the ball joints now to fit them!

You must let us know how you fit them.
I got the new correct tie bar bolts from minispares today, exactly the same length as my old bolts but with correct length plain shank. Jacked the car up, removed old bolts a replaced with new bolts in seconds, bolt in from the top, no ball joint splitting, no wheel removal, no tie bar bush removal.
Very interesting, thanks for posting.

#34 ings

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 12:57 PM

my tie bars are a litte bend and i have a fresh kit ready to install. But both bolts are somehow stuck. they make no movement.

 

tryed with a hammer an lots of wd40. nothing worked. next time i will try some heat...



#35 Cooperman

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 05:09 PM

Once again, WD40 is not a penetrating oil, it is just a thin lubricant

You need to use a proper penetrating oil.

#36 AlexMozza

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 12:18 PM

I have had it where the powder coating on the tie rods made it to tight to get a bolt through easily.
A bit of penertraiting oil and some fine wet and dry to remove a little powder coat and away you go!

#37 MIGLIACARS

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Posted 24 December 2017 - 08:31 AM

Ive had it a few times were the bolt comes out easy with no ball joint splitting and then other were the bolt seems just a tad to long, Couldn't really understand it thought I was going mad. even on the same car n/s to o/s.

So some times yes and some times no. 50% of the time the nut and bolt are knackered on older cars and the bolt sometimes snaps which make the 2 min job into a swearing exercise.






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