36 replies to this topic

[Northernpower]

Does the bolt holding the tie bar to the lower arm come out past the cv boot or do you need to remove/slacken off the lower ball joint first?

[Dusky]

It comes out I guess.
I could install the tie bars (set to standard lenght) with my Bottom balljoint already fitted to the Bottom arm

[Northernpower]

It comes out I guess.
I could install the tie bars (set to standard lenght) with my Bottom balljoint already fitted to the Bottom arm

These are adjustable tie bars with 1.5 neg camber bottom arms.

[blacktulip]

Nut at the bottom for obvious reasons

[Northernpower]

Nut at the bottom for obvious reasons

Yeah, I realised that, that what makes me wonder if it will come out through the top. It'll certainly go back with the nut on the bottom.

[nicklouse]

normally ball joint needs splitting.

[cal844]

The bolt is a pain in the bottom to get in from the top with the hub in place, stupid design to be honest

[Northernpower]

normally ball joint needs splitting.

 

 

The bolt is a pain in the bottom to get in from the top with the hub in place, stupid design to be honest

Sounds like I'll be splitting the ball joint. 

[nicklouse]

are you just changing it or what?

[Northernpower]

are you just changing it or what?

I'm fitting new front bushes to the tie bar, these http://minispares.co...px|Back to shop

[nicklouse]

I would just pop the bottom arm out of the subframe slacken the tie bar bolt off  and pull the tiebar out of the front mount.

 

it is rare that you actually need to remove the bolt.

[Northernpower]

I would just pop the bottom arm out of the subframe slacken the tie bar bolt off  and pull the tiebar out of the front mount.

 

it is rare that you actually need to remove the bolt.

OK I'll give it a go.

[Cooperman]

I always fit the bolt upwards, but, it is then vital to use either a castellated nut and split pin or a Nyloc nut. If using Nyloc it is important to remember that a Nyloc nut is STRICTLY SINGLE-USE ONLY. A new one must be fitted every time one is removed. 

The reason for doing this is to make it a 5 minute job to change a bent tie rod rather than a much longer job.

[Spider]

The factory fitted them from the top and yes, you need to split the ball joint. It was done that way so even if the nut falls off, theoretically, the bolt can't not just fall out, but come out at all.

 

The proper bolt also has a plain shank for almost the length between the Tie Bar holes.

[Cooperman]

The standard tie-bars were/are very easy to bend and with rally cars it is necessary to be able to change them very quickly which is why rally cars always have the bolt upwards.

I bent one on a rally in Belgium and we changed it in 5 minutes at the next service point. Had the bolt been downwards I think it would have taken around 20 minutes, which we wouldn't have had without a time penalty. I had 3 mechanics doing this and they knew in advance that the tie-bar needed changing.

I used to use castellated nuts/split pins for front and rear of the tie-bars, but Nylocs are so much easier and quicker.