36 replies to this topic

[Spider]

The standard tie-bars were/are very easy to bend and with rally cars it is necessary to be able to change them very quickly which is why rally cars always have the bolt upwards.

I bent one on a rally in Belgium and we changed it in 5 minutes at the next service point. Had the bolt been downwards I think it would have taken around 20 minutes, which we wouldn't have had without a time penalty. I had 3 mechanics doing this and they knew in advance that the tie-bar needed changing.

I used to use castellated nuts/split pins for front and rear of the tie-bars, but Nylocs are so much easier and quicker.

 

More or less understood what you did and why on your first posting. I used to do the same, but have gone back to the factory way. I don't see too much of an issue coming up from the bottom, but be best to keep a very regular check on them.

 

A few years back, our club President though it silly to come in from the top, until on a track one day it fell out,,,,,,

[imack]

I'm absolutely certain I've had the bolt out of mine without splitting the ball joint when I replaced the tie bar bushes. I've got rose jointed lower arms so it may make a difference.
I may have pulled the tie bar out of the subframe eye first and then rotated the lower arm on the rose joint and lower ball joint which gave enough clearance to remove the tie bar bolt.

[Northernpower]

normally ball joint needs splitting.

The only way was to split the joint. All done and sorted, incidentally I didn't even need to remove the wheel.

[tiger99]

By the way, it is IMPERATIVE to use the correct bolt, which is a "fitted" bolt with tightly controlled external diameter. Every Mini supplier should stock them, your local nut and bolt stockist mostly does not.

 

The bolt would normally be Grade S, equivalent to 8.8, but there are rumoured to be upgraded bolts available in 10.9, which would be worth using. Do not be tempted to use any higher grade, such as 12.9. as the lack of ductility may result in fatigue fracture, even if they seem to be stronger.

[imack]

Just tried mine, I can get the tie bar bolt out quite easily without having to remove anything else (mini hubs, not metro)

Attached Files

•  20170913_205443-1.jpg   50.6K   4 downloads

[Northernpower]

Just tried mine, I can get the tie bar bolt out quite easily without having to remove anything else (mini hubs, not metro)

Mine definitely wouldn't come out. It was only a couple of threads too long.

[nicklouse]

 

Just tried mine, I can get the tie bar bolt out quite easily without having to remove anything else (mini hubs, not metro)

Mine definitely wouldn't come out. It was only a couple of threads too long.

 

that dont look like the OE spec bolt as they normally have threads visible after the nut,

[Northernpower]

 

Just tried mine, I can get the tie bar bolt out quite easily without having to remove anything else (mini hubs, not metro)

Mine definitely wouldn't come out. It was only a couple of threads too long.
 

that dont look like the OE spec bolt as they normally have threads visible after the nut,

That's what I thought.

[imack]

I'm certain I bought those bolts from the local austin rover dealer many moons ago.
It is fitted with a plain washer and nyloc which is taller than the standard nut and spring washer plus the yolk on the tie bar is thicker than factory tie bars.
They are plain shanked bolts, not sure of the overall length

[Northernpower]

I'm certain I bought those bolts from the local austin rover dealer many moons ago.
It is fitted with a plain washer and nyloc which is taller than the standard nut and spring washer plus the yolk on the tie bar is thicker than factory tie bars.
They are plain shanked bolts, not sure of the overall length

My tie bars are the same design so yes the yolk appears to be thicker than normal but the bolts were just a couple of threads too long.

[Cooperman]

It doesn't look like the Nyloc is fully engaged due to the bolt being a bit too short. Maybe it's just the photo though.

[imack]

Cooperman, bolt was flush with the top of the nyloc, couple of exposed threads with spring washer and plain nut, bolt is 1 1/2".
However, having looked at the bolt again I think the plain shank too short so I've ordered two new bolts from minispares.
I'll probably have to split the ball joints now to fit them!

Attached Files

•  20170913_213751-1-1.jpg   55.93K   2 downloads

[Northernpower]

Cooperman, bolt was flush with the top of the nyloc, couple of exposed threads with spring washer and plain nut, bolt is 1 1/2".
However, having looked at the bolt again I think the plain shank too short so I've ordered two new bolts from minispares.
I'll probably have to split the ball joints now to fit them!

You must let us know how you fit them.

[Cooperman]

Ideally with a Nylon you need a couple of threads above the top of the nut to ensure locking.
If you have this there is no reason not to fit the new bolts upwards if you wish. It would be entirely safe so long as new Nylocs are used.

[grck1]

You can change the bolt without splitting the ball joint.
I recently changed mine along with tie rod bushes, it's the angle between the hub and tie rod at full droop that normally prevents removal, jacking the hub up to a position closer to ride height enables you to remove the bolt. I know it's not ideal but it is possible to do.

As a alternative you could remove the droop stop and insert a packer to prevent drooping.

Edited by grck1, 14 September 2017 - 04:24 AM.