44 replies to this topic

[Laurie]

I'm not doing it yet!
But I want to get tooled up and ready, I was going to be working on all wheels and changing the gaiters as needed probably at around the same time? I've NEVER done this before by the way so I'm more than a little bit scared
I've been Ebaying tools and two seem to show up - a puller and rings, so do I need these? Anything else for the shopping list if you like?
My mechanical experience lies as far as simple stuff so I'm throwing myself into the deep end a bit here so any tool likely to make things easier will be willingly appreciated
Bog standard torque wrench, spanners and sockets etc I've already got, also got a handy power (not air but same kinda jobby) wrench somewhere

Edited by Laurie, 20 September 2017 - 10:47 AM.

[nicklouse]

to be honest it depends on the condition of the bearings and what is wrong with then.

 

normally a drift and a hammer is all I use. BUT sometimes an Angle grinder was needed to remove the inner race on the CV.

[Laurie]

One of the bearings is going I know that from past mots, but I can't remember which one so I was going to do all of them
An angle grinder sounds like tremendous fun, we've got one of those as well. Metal cutting or grinding disc?

Also I don't want to sound thick here, but what's a drift?

Edited by Laurie, 20 September 2017 - 10:56 AM.

[Northernpower]

If you read the Haynes you find a good description of how to replace the bearings without using a puller, its not as difficult as it sounds. You may have a little problem removing the rear hubs.

[RooBoonix]

Make sure your torque wrench goes high enough, and if reversible (so it can apply torque onto left hand threads), I think you need one going up to around 250-300nm I can't remember the exact torque off hand.. that's for single hole front CV's

Edited by RooBoonix, 20 September 2017 - 11:17 AM.

[Northernpower]

One of the bearings is going I know that from past mots, but I can't remember which one so I was going to do all of them
An angle grinder sounds like tremendous fun, we've got one of those as well. Metal cutting or grinding disc?

Also I don't want to sound thick here, but what's a drift?

Drifts come in all sorts of sizes and styles. You need one to punch out the outer bearing race from the hub.

 

[nicklouse]

Also I don't want to sound thick here, but what's a drift?

often a short rod of a metal. normally softer that what it is being pressed against. think chisel or punch pin. could even be a bit of wood.

 

for example refitting the bearing races into the hub, you will need to make sure they are seated fully so they will need pressing in. or you could knock them in around the sides but you don't want to cause an damage.

 

removing the races would also need something similar.

 

Haynes manual read.

[Laurie]

Would this work?
Wheel Bearing Removal and Installation Kit https://www.amazon.c...i_lsLWzbAWMGTQV

[nicklouse]

Would this work?
Wheel Bearing Removal and Installation Kit https://www.amazon.c...i_lsLWzbAWMGTQV

nope

[Laurie]

K what about this
http://www.halfords....1&storeId=10001

[Cooperman]

One of the small problems is pressing the new outer races into the hubs.

 

A good trick is to lightly grind down the outer diameter of one of the old outer races so that is just slides into the hub. Then use this to press the new outer races fully home in the hubs. Just use a grinding disc on an angle-grinder and work your way around the outside of the old race.

[nicklouse]

K what about this
http://www.halfords....1&storeId=10001

nope.

 

from your Haynes manual rear bearings

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear

of the car and support it on axle stands (see

“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the

rear roadwheel, then release the handbrake.

2 Slacken off the brake adjuster, unscrew the

two brake drum retaining screws and lift off

the drum. If it is tight, tap it gently using a softfaced

mallet.

3 By judicious tapping and levering, extract

the hub cap and withdraw the retaining split

pin from the hub securing nut (see

illustration).

4 Using a large socket, undo and remove the

hub securing nut and thrustwasher. Note that

the left-hand hub nut has a left-hand thread

and the right-hand hub nut has a right-hand

thread.

5 Withdraw the hub from the stub axle using

a hub puller. Alternatively, lever it off using

two stout screwdrivers or flat bars.

6 With the hub assembly removed from the

car, prise out the rear oil seal, then tap out the

two bearing inner races using a brass drift.

Take care not to lose the balls which will be

released as the inner races are removed. On

certain models, taper roller bearings are fitted

and the inner races are simply lifted out.

 

7 Withdraw the distance piece (if fitted)

located between the two bearings and then

drive out the two outer races away from the

hub centre.

8 Thoroughly clean all the parts in paraffin or

a suitable solvent and dry with a lint-free

cloth.

9 Carefully examine the bearing inner and

outer races, and the ball cage and balls for

scoring, pitting or wear ridges; renew as

necessary. The hub oil seal must be renewed

as it will have been damaged during removal.

If the bearings are in a satisfactory condition,

reassemble the balls and ball cage to the

outer race and then press the inner race back

into position.

10 Before refitting the bearings remove any

burrs that may be present in the bore of the

hub. Use a fine file or scraper.

11 Pack the bearings using a general

purpose lithium based grease and fit the

inboard bearing to the hub with the narrow

edge of the bearing outer race facing away

from the hub centre. Press or tap the bearing

into position, using the outer race only, with a

tube of suitable diameter until the bearing

abuts the shoulder in the hub. Take great care

to keep the bearing square as it is installed,

otherwise it will jam in the hub bore, and could

cause the outer race, to crack.

12 Fit a new oil seal to the rear of the hub

with its lip facing towards the bearing. On

models fitted with taper roller bearings, the oil

seal lip faces away from the bearing.

13 Place the distance piece in position and fit

the outboard bearing into the hub, again

ensuring that the narrow edge of the bearing

outer race faces away from the hub centre.

Note: Some makes of plain ball-bearings have

lengthened inner races which butt against

each other. In this case the bearing distance

piece is no longer needed.

14 With the bearings installed, refit the hub to

the stub axle and gently tap it home using a

soft-faced mallet. Ensure that the stub axle

squarely enters the distance piece between

the two bearings.

15 Place the thrustwasher over the stub axle,

chamfered side toward the bearing, then refit

the securing nut and tighten it to the specified

torque. Align the next split pin hole and fit a

new split pin.

16 Refit the hub cap, brake drum and

roadwheel, readjust the brakes (see Chapter 1)

then lower the car to the ground.

 

[nicklouse]

 

 

Disc brake models

19 Remove the swivel hub assembly as

described in Section 3.

20 With the assembly on the bench, lift off

the tapered collar (fitted to certain models)

from the front of the outer bearing and then

prise out the two oil seals using a screwdriver.

Now lift out the inner bearing spacer, the two

taper roller bearings and the distance piece.

21 Using a suitable drift, tap out the two

bearing outer races from each side of the hub.

22 Thoroughly clean the bearings and swivel

hub using paraffin or a suitable solvent and

dry with a lint-free rag. Remove any burrs or

score marks from the hub bore with a fine file

or scraper.

23 Carefully examine the bearing outer races,

the rollers and roller cages for pitting, scoring,

or cracks, and if at all suspect renew the

bearings. It will also be necessary to renew

the oil seals as they will have been damaged

during removal.

24 Begin reassembly by refitting the bearing

outer races to the hub, with their smaller

diameter toward the hub centre. Press the

outer races into the hub using a tube of

suitable diameter and a vice, or very carefully

tap them into place using a brass drift. Ensure

that the race does not tip slightly and bind as

it is being installed. If this happens, the outer

race will crack so take great care to keep it

square. The outer race must seat firmly

against the shoulder in the centre of the hub

when fitted.

25 Pack the two roller bearings with a high

melting-point grease and position them in

their outer races with the distance piece in

between.

26 Install the two new oil seals with their

sealing lips inwards and use a tube of suitable

diameter to tap them fully home. Note that

there is a spacer fitted behind the inner oil

seal and that the inner seal also has a second

lip on its inner circumference.

27 Position the tapered collar over the outer

bearing (where fitted), and refit the swivel hub

assembly to the car as described in Section 3.

When refitting the swivel hub, ensure that the

water shield on the driveshaft is packed with

grease around its sealing face and positioned

6.35 mm from the end of the shaft.

 

the only tools needed are may be a hub puller and a brass drift.

 

as above using a machined down race can be good. or a suitable bit of tube or a gert big socket or take time with hammer and brass drift.

[Laurie]

I've just bought some hardened steel drift punches, they were only cheap from toolstation so I'm not overly concerned if they're wrong
I'll get myself a puller as well - any recommendations?
Hammer we've got tonnes of, from overboard sledgehammer right through to a little pin hammer

Could I use a dremel with a grinding disc on the race joint? As I fear I might get carried away with a angle grinder

Edited by Laurie, 20 September 2017 - 02:19 PM.

[nicklouse]

not a fan of hard drifts for re fitting as they can cause damage. dremel would take years.