nope.
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear
of the car and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the
rear roadwheel, then release the handbrake.
2 Slacken off the brake adjuster, unscrew the
two brake drum retaining screws and lift off
the drum. If it is tight, tap it gently using a softfaced
mallet.
3 By judicious tapping and levering, extract
the hub cap and withdraw the retaining split
pin from the hub securing nut (see
illustration).
4 Using a large socket, undo and remove the
hub securing nut and thrustwasher. Note that
the left-hand hub nut has a left-hand thread
and the right-hand hub nut has a right-hand
thread.
5 Withdraw the hub from the stub axle using
a hub puller. Alternatively, lever it off using
two stout screwdrivers or flat bars.
6 With the hub assembly removed from the
car, prise out the rear oil seal, then tap out the
two bearing inner races using a brass drift.
Take care not to lose the balls which will be
released as the inner races are removed. On
certain models, taper roller bearings are fitted
and the inner races are simply lifted out.
7 Withdraw the distance piece (if fitted)
located between the two bearings and then
drive out the two outer races away from the
hub centre.
8 Thoroughly clean all the parts in paraffin or
a suitable solvent and dry with a lint-free
cloth.
9 Carefully examine the bearing inner and
outer races, and the ball cage and balls for
scoring, pitting or wear ridges; renew as
necessary. The hub oil seal must be renewed
as it will have been damaged during removal.
If the bearings are in a satisfactory condition,
reassemble the balls and ball cage to the
outer race and then press the inner race back
into position.
10 Before refitting the bearings remove any
burrs that may be present in the bore of the
hub. Use a fine file or scraper.
11 Pack the bearings using a general
purpose lithium based grease and fit the
inboard bearing to the hub with the narrow
edge of the bearing outer race facing away
from the hub centre. Press or tap the bearing
into position, using the outer race only, with a
tube of suitable diameter until the bearing
abuts the shoulder in the hub. Take great care
to keep the bearing square as it is installed,
otherwise it will jam in the hub bore, and could
cause the outer race, to crack.
12 Fit a new oil seal to the rear of the hub
with its lip facing towards the bearing. On
models fitted with taper roller bearings, the oil
seal lip faces away from the bearing.
13 Place the distance piece in position and fit
the outboard bearing into the hub, again
ensuring that the narrow edge of the bearing
outer race faces away from the hub centre.
Note: Some makes of plain ball-bearings have
lengthened inner races which butt against
each other. In this case the bearing distance
piece is no longer needed.
14 With the bearings installed, refit the hub to
the stub axle and gently tap it home using a
soft-faced mallet. Ensure that the stub axle
squarely enters the distance piece between
the two bearings.
15 Place the thrustwasher over the stub axle,
chamfered side toward the bearing, then refit
the securing nut and tighten it to the specified
torque. Align the next split pin hole and fit a
new split pin.
16 Refit the hub cap, brake drum and
roadwheel, readjust the brakes (see Chapter 1)
then lower the car to the ground.