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Wheel Bearings Tools


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#31 jonlad

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 08:26 PM

The Haynes manual details a washer as a tool for making sure everything is home before fitting the tapered split washer and finally torqueing up.

 

Is the old race used instead of this washer tool? It doesn't sound like anyone is using it.  Unfortunately minispares is out of stock too.

 

And... I dont have any old outer races as I'm building a car from box of bits. 

 

Do I need the tool, and if so does anyone know where else I can buy it?

Thanks in advance



#32 cal844

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 09:23 PM

I usually press fit my bearings, then I just grease and fit, then torque to spec with the cone washer fitted I then temporarily fit the wheel to check for play, then remove wheel and tighten to next split pin hole where needed. One of my cars has done 10,000 miles on new bearings

#33 jonlad

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 08:06 AM

I usually press fit my bearings, then I just grease and fit, then torque to spec with the cone washer fitted I then temporarily fit the wheel to check for play, then remove wheel and tighten to next split pin hole where needed. One of my cars has done 10,000 miles on new bearings

 

Sounds good, thanks! :highfive:



#34 Ethel

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 10:13 AM

The idea of the flat washer is to replace the split, tapered washer  so you can tighten the nut and seat the bearings without it gripping the shaft. Once seated you'd remove the flat washer and retighten the nut using the split one. It's not essential if you can achieve the same by other means, such as Cal's.



#35 jonlad

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 02:53 PM

Thanks Ethel! :thumbsup:



#36 dunkyb

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Posted 31 March 2021 - 06:55 PM

I’ve heard you can use the split tapered washer in backwards to do this? Has anyone used this method?

Are you supposed to replace the split washer behind the hub nut each time you take the hub nut off?

#37 nicklouse

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Posted 31 March 2021 - 07:12 PM

I’ve heard you can use the split tapered washer in backwards to do this? Has anyone used this method?

Are you supposed to replace the split washer behind the hub nut each time you take the hub nut off?

Only replace it if worn.

 

not heard about reversing to seat things. But then I don’t use the washer either.



#38 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 31 March 2021 - 07:15 PM

The idea of tightening up with the flat washer is to stop the torque wrench "clicking" due to "stiction" of the tapered washer grabbing the cv or having burrs on it preveting a proper loading of the bearings.

 

The tapered washer does not need replacing each time, but I do clean and lightely sand the taper to make sure it has no burrs whatsoever... you can use some fine valve lapping paste on the taper but make sure you clean it all off properly after.. I also oil the taper when I torque it up so it is less likely to give a false reading...



#39 Spider

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Posted 01 April 2021 - 05:48 PM

It's a good idea to check the Tapered Washer for fit on to the CV before fitting it all up. There's some tips here;-

 

https://www.theminif...wheel-bearings/

 

Like Nick, I've never used the flat washer, frankly, I see it as counter intuitive. It's fitted, torqued up, that  seats all the components, then undone, so at this point, everything done prior is undone, including any seating.

 

The Split Tapered Washers too, I have always questioned the wisdom of. I get why they are made with the Split - to ensure that is both seats in the Taper of the Drive Flange and also over the Nose of the CV, however, as it has the Split in it, in use and especially when cornering, this Split can and does further close up, chaffing between the Drive Flange, Tapered Washer and the Wheel Bearing on the CV. If you look at a used Hub Assembly, there's evidence of this on all the parts. Some guys (Graeme C for one) have cracked and broken the Tapered Washer from flexing it in this way. If you listen when cornering hard, you can often hear this occurring, it sounds like a card being flicked by bicycle spokes.

 

I always had it in mind to make a set of these Tapered Washers, but without the Split, though someone one here on the Forum steered me to KAD who make these and for a sensible price. I've been running these for around a year now. The 'Card on Spokes' sound has gone. In the next few months, I'll strip my hubs down for an inspection.



#40 dunkyb

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Posted 02 April 2021 - 10:39 AM

Guys I’ve just realised the new wheel bearing kits don’t come with the locking ring for the back. As I can’t get my old driveshaft off the hub and am installing new components, what do I do??

#41 nicklouse

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Posted 02 April 2021 - 10:57 AM

Guys I’ve just realised the new wheel bearing kits don’t come with the locking ring for the back. As I can’t get my old driveshaft off the hub and am installing new components, what do I do??

What locking ring? There aren’t any.



#42 dunkyb

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Posted 02 April 2021 - 11:09 AM

Guys I’ve just realised the new wheel bearing kits don’t come with the locking ring for the back. As I can’t get my old driveshaft off the hub and am installing new components, what do I do??

What locking ring? There aren’t any.

Not sure how it’s called.. a little metal ring that you squeeze in and it expands out
on the inside of the hub when fitting bearings. I think it sits between the outer race and the seal on the inside?

#43 dunkyb

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Posted 02 April 2021 - 11:12 AM

Number 5 in the attached diagram mate

Attached Files



#44 GraemeC

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Posted 02 April 2021 - 11:59 AM

It is a spacer and they aren't used/supplied anymore.

You don't need one, just don't push the seal too far in - so it is just past the cast tapered part of the hub is fine.

 

If you have your old one, it can happily be re-used.



#45 no66

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Posted 03 April 2021 - 12:53 PM

Press is best, but a drift works,  but be carful. 

A tip is to leave the outer races in the freezer overnight. Warm the hub with a heat gun, sometime the races will drop into place. 






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