Electrical Issues: Flasher Unit/horn/radio
Best Answer brivinci , 22 October 2017 - 12:48 AM
Oh, this is a good one...
I started tracing the fog/spot wires. Which, to be honest, was a good exercise so I could confirm colors, routing location, and which relay is which. Ill be drawing up a proper diagram to add to my collection.
Anyway! I traced the wires and noticed that i had no power at the brown 12v leads. A quick search showed that I had left that power lead off the starters post. Dumb!! Reattached and all is well and all lights are working now.
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#1
Posted 27 September 2017 - 04:41 AM
Also, my Headlight flashers are not working as well. Main and dip work but not flashers.
Ive dug in have not figured it out. This is a 94 SPi with the 4 fuse holder and the purple wire on has power and continuity within the car. I took apart the horn/flasher/turn/dip switch assembly and tried testing. I had continuity when pushing in the horn button. Ran out of time but anything else I can test here??
#2
Posted 27 September 2017 - 05:24 AM
Might be a dodgy connection or earth?
#3
Posted 27 September 2017 - 11:04 PM
Something else, the factory installed spots and dogs up front arent working either. Geez!!!
#4
Posted 28 September 2017 - 03:07 PM
Last night, I undid the main earth connection on the right side of the engine compartment. I believe there were 5 or 6 wires connected to it. It was tight and clean looking but I chased the threads, sanded the wire ends, lubricated with diode grease and reassembled. Nothing changed.
#5
Posted 28 September 2017 - 04:04 PM
Sounds like a suspect stalk to be honest. Flash has a seperate copper tag to the dipped/main switch over so chek that it is making contact.
As for the horn / radio issue - you are losing the permanent live when pressing the horn on the stalk which is switching the radio off.
Any way you can borrow a known good stalk unit, plug it in and see if the problems are still there?
#6
Posted 29 September 2017 - 03:07 PM
I took the stalk off and took it apart but to no avail. The mounting collar on it was broken as well. Regardless, I need to replace it. When I do, I'll post up my findings.
#7
Posted 29 September 2017 - 08:26 PM
I had a similar issue after changing my front indicators to the older glass type. I'd flash and the indicators would stop working, plus every time the radio would turn off like you're saying.
Never found the solution so I'm subscribing!
#8
Posted 30 September 2017 - 11:10 AM
#9
Posted 01 October 2017 - 12:01 AM
I checked all the in line fuses throughout. Ive replaced a few in line holders over the years as the plastic can be both brittle as well as start to melt. I really wish I had a 95 wiring harness, with their individual blade fuses at times like this.
#10
Posted 10 October 2017 - 10:19 PM
If I press the horn for a second or so, 1: the horn doesnt sound, and 2: the radio resets like the battery was disconnected. All presets and prompts me to enter rover code.
So, heres whats working:
Headlights main/dip
Turn signals
Hazards
And whats not:
Flashers
Horn
Radio reset when horn pressed
Spot/fog lamps. I only just realized this. Both my factory spots and fog lights up front are not working at all. Man, Im scared to see whats next to fail.
#11
Posted 11 October 2017 - 06:24 PM
Well, it sound to like fuse box fuse 3-4 might be suspect. It feeds the horn, headlamp flasher, brake failure circuit and radio memory. But also, it feeds the inline fuse LF-14 (purple/purple) for the driving lamps. There might be voltage at fuse 3-4 under no load (no current). Check the voltage there under load and see if it goes away with the driving lamps on (Main beam on) or using the flasher. The fuse or the brown wire feeding it might have developed high internal resistance.
#12
Posted 11 October 2017 - 09:30 PM
#13
Posted 12 October 2017 - 12:19 AM
If there is voltage at the entry point (brown) of the fuse box fuse 3-4, but not (or low) at the purple end, then the fuse or the fuse holder are bad. I there is low or no voltage at the fuse entry point (brown) the brown wire is bad or the connection at the starter needs cleaning for that wire.
I had a similar problem with the electric radiator fan. It would not work. I unplugged the connector at the fan, I had full voltage. So, I was thinking bad fan motor. Hot wired the fan and it ran. Re-plugged the fan, and managed to connect the voltmeter and no voltage when attempting to run the fan. Connected the volt meter at the relay output to the fan, again no voltage. Same thing with the input to the relay, but there was voltage at the fuse end of that wire (purple). So, I cut the wire at both ends, and spliced a piece in between and that fixed the problem. The original damaged piece of wire is still buried in the taped loom.
#14
Posted 12 October 2017 - 01:29 AM
So, I tested the 3-4 connectors on the fuse block, again. As before, there is 12v both in and out. Also 12v from the block to the inline fuse on the purple wire. BUT!!! When I push the horn or use the flashers, the voltage drops to 0.
#15
Posted 12 October 2017 - 03:38 AM
I was digging a little deeper, around the fuse box and the inline fuses. Checking to make sure things had continuity and what went where. Disconnected the brown and purple spade ends from fuse box a few times to test. Also disconnected the inline fuse behind the airbox that is brown in, purple out. After a bit of fiddling, it go to test and it all works!! Thats never good.
I need to look a bit closer but where does the purple/brown inline fuse behind the airbox control! Reason I ask is because the flashers and horn still worked with it disconnected. There is continuity between the brown on number 3 in box.
Oh, and my spot/fogs still are not working...
Edited by brivinci, 12 October 2017 - 05:13 AM.
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