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Turns Over But Won't Start


Best Answer StubyDoo , 07 October 2017 - 12:40 PM

Turned out to be a bad connection in the fuel system relay on the larger connection.

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#1 StubyDoo

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 12:47 PM

I've had my 2001 Cooper for about 4 weeks and it's started every time apart from today.  I went to work in it and back today with no issue but less than an hour after getting home it won't start.  The engine turns and it sounds like it going to start but never catches.  The fuel was low so I've put a gallon in and now it just turns and doesn't sound like it's going to start.  I've checked all the fuses in the main fuse box and the 30amp ones under the bonnet and all look good.  If I remember correctly from owning a mini years ago there is a fuel cut out top right under the bonnet which cuts out on an impact.  I've pressed this down and it did seem to move a bit first go but hasn't helped.  Any ideas what to try?



#2 Northernpower

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 01:15 PM

I've had my 2001 Cooper for about 4 weeks and it's started every time apart from today.  I went to work in it and back today with no issue but less than an hour after getting home it won't start.  The engine turns and it sounds like it going to start but never catches.  The fuel was low so I've put a gallon in and now it just turns and doesn't sound like it's going to start.  I've checked all the fuses in the main fuse box and the 30amp ones under the bonnet and all look good.  If I remember correctly from owning a mini years ago there is a fuel cut out top right under the bonnet which cuts out on an impact.  I've pressed this down and it did seem to move a bit first go but hasn't helped.  Any ideas what to try?

If you think it helped when you pressed the inertia switch the first thing I would do would be to bypass it.



#3 Carlos W

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 02:41 PM

Is there a spark at the plugs, and is there fuel at the plugs?



#4 StubyDoo

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 03:00 PM

Is there a spark at the plugs, and is there fuel at the plugs?

I haven't checked the spark as I'm on my own and can't reach the ignition and plug at the same time.  I have checked the plugs though and they are all dry so no fuel is getting to them.  What should I try next and is it okay to short the plug to the isolator switch with a paper clip or similar.  The battery is starting to go flat too so is it okay to charge in situ?  I'm guessing it should be okay on a 6amp charger to would like some reassurance. Ta.



#5 StubyDoo

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 03:16 PM

I'm not reading any voltage at the isolator switch and I can't hear the fuel pump start up on the ignition.

 

I don't think it's relevant but I fitted a new non vented petrol cap and have done 2 15 mile journeys with it fitted.


Edited by StubyDoo, 06 October 2017 - 03:25 PM.


#6 Northernpower

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 03:42 PM

I'm not reading any voltage at the isolator switch and I can't hear the fuel pump start up on the ignition.

 

I don't think it's relevant but I fitted a new non vented petrol cap and have done 2 15 mile journeys with it fitted.

Are you getting a reading on either side of the wiring at the isolator? If not, I would trace the feed back and find where its fused and take a reading there. I don't know how the feed to the isolator works but some ECU's only supply a feed for a few seconds if the engine is not turning over, you need to see if you get a reading at the isolator when you first turn the ignition on.

 

The fuel cap is not a concern, the tank will be vented.



#7 StubyDoo

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 05:59 PM

It's dark now so it will have to wait until tomorrow.  I have been out with a torch and put the meter on the fuel pump in the tank.  With the ignition on it was dancing between 2v & 4v which doesn't seem right.  I'd have expected to see 12v at least.  I tested the meter on the battery and it had 12.8v but it will need a charge tomorrow.



#8 Northernpower

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 06:28 PM

It's dark now so it will have to wait until tomorrow.  I have been out with a torch and put the meter on the fuel pump in the tank.  With the ignition on it was dancing between 2v & 4v which doesn't seem right.  I'd have expected to see 12v at least.  I tested the meter on the battery and it had 12.8v but it will need a charge tomorrow.

You need to start at the front with your meter and work back with it checking at the same time, the terminals on the fuse box and isolator etc.



#9 StubyDoo

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 12:40 PM   Best Answer

Turned out to be a bad connection in the fuel system relay on the larger connection.



#10 Northernpower

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 01:26 PM

Turned out to be a bad connection in the fuel system relay on the larger connection.

Glad you've sorted it, all you have to do is be methodical.






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