Thanks for the pointers, I have made a list, major thing we need to sort is a trip meter.
The car has some wiring in it for the various additional bits like potti and trip meters, and also has a map light on the cage but i need to sort out the wiring so that i understand it and know its right, in case i need to solve an issue with it at some point, but until the car is MOT’d that can wait.
And to MOT we need seats and belts which handily turned up yesterday.
With these here I can get a mounting sorted to fit them to the welded in seat rails with some subframe runners allowing for the seat to be moveable so that both me and the GF can drive without having to unbolt the seats and relocate them into a set of fixings further forward each and everytime. Need to speak to my mate who is an MOT tester to check this out a little.
The cone compressor turned up along with the new cones, I was short on time this weekend but had a quick couple hours here and there, first snag was jacking it up onto stands, the thing is so low, it has the Scottish dural sump guard on it. Am I ok to jack up on this, I am assuming so as the entire weight of the car will be resting on it at points when it decks out, which given its current height will be often!!
Second snag was that the cone compressor does not want to thread into the cone. I’ve sprayed some plus gas into is and will put some grease onto the compressor to see if that helps but im not holding my breath. Now I thought the car was sat on standard trumpets at the front, and it was sat so low due to the cones having sagged. Turns out it has got Hi-Lo’s fitted to the front but wound pretty much all the way down. Now this causes a couple new problems, I was going to smash the std trumpet to allow me to get the cone out if the compressor would’nt thread into it, then replace the smashed std trumpet with the new Hi-Lo. This now becomes trickier as I am not smashing the Hi-Lo that’s in there!! 1 – I wouldn’t want to & 2 I probably couldn’t even if I did want to.
So I could just adjust it up and get the front end to a more appropriate height, but I have bought new cones and the old ones will definitely be past their best so I want to change them out. Can I remove the top arm safely if I wind the hi-lo to its lowest and remove the bump stop to let the hub droop as low as possible? If not what is the best/alternative way to remove the cone if I can’t get the compressor to thread/wind in and now can’t smash the trumpet?
Si sent me some links to some regularity training scenarios and also some links where you could download the regularity instructions from prior years of the ToC. After a little bit of reading and understanding I made sense of them ok and have bought the OS maps (will more than likely need some of them for this years event anyway) so will have a go at plotting them on the maps when they land in the post. At the start of the rally how long do you get the instructions for prior to your start time. As working through them was ok sat at my desk with just them to concentrate on, trying to do that in a car whilst trying to keep someone going the right way sounds like a headache!!
Next issue to crop up is the cars eligibility for Category 2, as the car has a A+ engine in it complete with all A+ ancillaries, such as a pre engaged starter. I spoke to a guy I know who does HRCR events and he told me that it’ll be fine, but then I was reading Si’s thread on here and he said he was changing his to comply with the regs to the letter so was fitting an inertia type. What are the thoughts on this, I know the A+ blocks are allowed but was kinda hoping I could avoid the fairly unnecessary buggering about changing the flywheel ring and starter. Advice please
Edited by 28hodge, 31 October 2017 - 04:41 PM.