23 replies to this topic

[rolesyboy]

Folks, I have just rebuilt my MPI. Itr ran before I dismantled it.I have now got it running but it takes a good deal of coaxing in to life. When it does finally fire up if I touch the throttle more than a whisker it dies. After several tries and coaxing the throttle just as it catches the car will eventually tick over reasonably well or a moderate amount of time. If I try to rev the car up it dies unless I gingerly tap the throttle and catch it just right. From there I can build up the revs to a maximum of just under 3000 rpm. It then backfires occasionally. 

I took the clutch and flywheel out. I could only see one orientation of the flywheel but i wondered if the clutch and pressure plate have to go in a certain way? If so how do I do this correctly.

The timing appears to be out to my mind. Not at all familiar with MPI Minis 

Any suggestions welcomed. Cheers. Mark

[WillCarter]

I have a SPi but mine had what sounds like the same problem. I'd press my foot to the floor and it would struggle to get the revs up. It would also die when I slowed down to a junction unless I revved the balls off it with the choke on. The only problem was that the throttle cable was too tight so the throttle was always slightly open. I slackened it off very slightly and it seemed to clear the problem straight away. I also checked the plugs and leads, making sure all the plugs were on the right spark plug (another mistake I made once) and also yeah definitely check the timing as I've read that severe timing issues can cause backfire. 

 

All that being said, I have an SPi so all this might be a load of rubbish for you! 

[rolesyboy]

Thanks. My issue sounds quite different. I would welcome any more comments from forum members though

[rolesyboy]

Thanks. My issue sounds quite different. I would welcome any more comments from forum members though

[Homersimpson]

I have a vauge recollection of a friend of mine who runs a mini garage being asked to fix an SPI that had a similar problem after a clutch change by another garage.  I seem to recall that the clutch kit (presumably the pressure plate) is different on an injection mini and if you fit the wrong one it alters the timing.  Do  you know what clutch kit was fitted or did you just put the original one back in?

Edited by Homersimpson, 22 October 2017 - 07:21 AM.

[Homersimpson]

I have a vauge recollection of a friend of mine who runs a mini garage being asked to fix an SPI that had a similar problem after a clutch change.  I seem to recall that the clutch kit (presumably the pressure plate) is different on an injection mini and if you fit the wrong one it alters the timing.  Do  you know what clutch kit was fitted or did you just put the original one back in?

 

Just had a look and the problem is refered to here:

 

http://www.minispare...M5921.aspx|Back to  

 

Maybe this is your problem, if not then might be worth getting hold of someone who can read any fault codes from the car.  

 

Best of luck with it, my experience with repairing injected cars (not minis) is that its usually something small that causes these issues but it takes ages to find.

[rolesyboy]

Thanks. I used the same clutch plate. I only took it out for inspection. Having said that I wonder if I have assembled it incorrectly and this is sending the timing out?

The flywheel could only go on one way so perhaps this is my problem? 

[cian]

If the flywheel is on 180 degrees out the car wont start at all, what was changed with the rebuild?

[rolesyboy]

Thanks. As far as I know the flywheel wont go on 180 degrees out. It does start hence my question about the clutch and pressure plate.

[minidaves]

check the cam sensor at the back of the engine, also check plug leads are on in the right order

[hunterg30]

Could it be the crank sensor playing up? Check all vacuum hoses as well

[rolesyboy]

Wonder if it is the crank sensor?? Can it be tested?

[rolesyboy]

Well folks. I squirted fuel from a brake cleaner bottle into the injector housing and the Mini runs ticks over and revs like a good-un. So not an ignition or timing issue. However as soon as I go back to relying on the fuel pump the car will tick over (just) and wont rev cleanly nor past 3000 rpm. Any suggestions what would be s good next step? Wondering if poor fuel delivery? No idea how I can test. Thoughts welcomed. Cheers. Mark

[FlyingScot]

First off I would be checking the basic service items including the fuel filter, located on the rear subframe.

FS

[WillCarter]

Change the fuel filter and see for any fuel line blockages