16 replies to this topic

[Hegnirst]

 18157661_706795326192562_540537223552103723_n.jpg   78.52K   5 downloads

 

76 clubman

 

1300 mg metro lump

 

done lots of miles in it and know the engine really well.

 

the issue I'm having is bang on 4.5k revs in 4th everytime, it splutters and wont let me past that rpm (around 60ish i think) like hitting a wall

 

I've changed the coil for a spare (correct french one), king lead (all leads are new anyway) and checked sparks, i haven't changed the mixture, the timing i haven't touched either, dash pot oil is good too, its a very healthy 1275 (no smoke nothing) and starts with out fail every time and has no other hesitation spots in any of the gears. 

 

any suggestions?

 

thank you

[nicklouse]

Has the carb been set on a rolling road? What needle is it?

What dizzy? And if points is it correct for the build? Numbers off the side? (Just so we know it is for a 1275 and not say a 1000).

[Hegnirst]

Has the carb been set on a rolling road? What needle is it?

What dizzy? And if points is it correct for the build? Numbers off the side? (Just so we know it is for a 1275 and not say a 1000).

 

I've said what it is, the engine has been set up for well over a year by col at SMMC

the engine is a well tuned standard MG metro 1275

[Homersimpson]

I wonder if its fuel starvation, does the level of fuel in the tank make any difference?

 

I once had a kitcar that ran perfectly with a full tank but when it got below 3/4 it misfired terribly, it turned out that whoever fitted the sender unit to the tank had gobbed it up with silicone and a lump had fallen off and wedged in the outlet pipe, when the tank was full the pressure from the small head on the tank was just enough to push past this.

 

I would change any fuel filters you have and perhaps use an airline to blow back from the pump to the tank to clear any internal blockages, alternatively it may be that the fuel pump is weak/failing, can you check the oil level to ensure that its not rising (if fuel is leaking from the pump into the sump).

[Hegnirst]

I wonder if its fuel starvation, does the level of fuel in the tank make any difference?

 

I once had a kitcar that ran perfectly with a full tank but when it got below 3/4 it misfired terribly, it turned out that whoever fitted the sender unit to the tank had gobbed it up with silicone and a lump had fallen off and wedged in the outlet pipe, when the tank was full the pressure from the small head on the tank was just enough to push past this.

 

I would change any fuel filters you have and perhaps use an airline to blow back from the pump to the tank to clear any internal blockages, alternatively it may be that the fuel pump is weak/failing, can you check the oil level to ensure that its not rising (if fuel is leaking from the pump into the sump).

 

it is running low on fuel at the moment but never had that in a mini, especially as i don't run filters. but as you've raised this in which had gone through my head as a possibility ill fill it up tomorrow and try again :)

 

thanks for the suggestion mate 

[AlexMozza]

Check things like rotor cap for cracks.
Does it change with engine load?

[Hegnirst]

Check things like rotor cap for cracks.
Does it change with engine load?

 

I've said, 

 

its 100 percent in every gear apart from 4th at 60mph light or a heavy foot wont do above that

[DeanP]

My old 1992 Rover 200 juddered to buggery and it was down to the rotor arm (this was years ago by the way). My old moggy kept breaking down too, sometimes would judder, sometimes would just cut out. Then I discovered distributor doctor, are your dizzy parts from mini suppliers or local motor factors? If not any part could have quality issues. Since converting to his components I've never had condenser, rotor arm, points, dizzy cap issues. Car no longer breaks down and runs as per original equipment. I'd recommend making sure your dizzy components aren't substandard, before taking too much apart.

 

I can't guarantee this will resolve your issue, but substandard suppliers is the cause of a lot of annoying classic car running issues.

Edited by DeanP, 29 October 2017 - 04:23 PM.

[cal844]

We had the same on our 998, changed everything (rebuilt carb, changed to a spare 65D dizzy, new electronic coil....) Still couldn't cure this until one day we decided to start again. Fitted a coil from another supplier and bingo... Knocked that wall down, will now hit motorway speed

Coil from another supplier

[Hegnirst]

My old 1992 Rover 200 juddered to buggery and it was down to the rotor arm (this was years ago by the way). My old moggy kept breaking down too, sometimes would judder, sometimes would just cut out. Then I discovered distributor doctor, are your dizzy parts from mini suppliers or local motor factors? If not any part could have quality issues. Since converting to his components I've never had condenser, rotor arm, points, dizzy cap issues. Car no longer breaks down and runs as per original equipment. I'd recommend making sure your dizzy components aren't substandard, before taking too much apart.

 

I can't guarantee this will resolve your issue, but substandard suppliers is the cause of a lot of annoying classic car running issues.

 

dizzy is standard i.e. electronic ignition per A+ engines i will check the rotor arm, 

[Hegnirst]

We had the same on our 998, changed everything (rebuilt carb, changed to a spare 65D dizzy, new electronic coil....) Still couldn't cure this until one day we decided to start again. Fitted a coil from another supplier and bingo... Knocked that wall down, will now hit motorway speed

Coil from another supplier

 

I've tried 3 coils dude, all the same problem after wards, 4th at 60mph

[nicklouse]

ok so dizzy has been modded to suit.

 

what coils are you trying?

http://www.theminifo...tributor-types/

 

what has changed since it was set up on the rollers?

[DeanP]

 

 

dizzy is standard i.e. electronic ignition per A+ engines i will check the rotor arm, 

 

 

Was it not an MG Metro engine? That's pre-electronic ignition surely? My 1989 998cc Metro I purchased new still had points and that was one of the last ones.

 

I think Nicklouse has spotted the potential issue.

[cal844]

We had the same on our 998, changed everything (rebuilt carb, changed to a spare 65D dizzy, new electronic coil....) Still couldn't cure this until one day we decided to start again. Fitted a coil from another supplier and bingo... Knocked that wall down, will now hit motorway speed

Coil from another supplier

 
I've tried 3 coils dude, all the same problem after wards, 4th at 60mph

Ok, does the car have a review counter fitted? When it misfires does it make small bounces(+-100rpm(fuel)) or larger bounces(500 to 1000 rpm (electrical))

[Hegnirst]

ok so dizzy has been modded to suit.

 

what coils are you trying?

http://www.theminifo...tributor-types/

 

what has changed since it was set up on the rollers?

 

no, i replaced it with the same to make sure though. and it ran with the same coil a while back too on another mini