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Rear Subframe Removal Advice


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#1 pusb

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Posted 28 October 2017 - 12:22 PM

Hi, I'm trying to get the rear subframe off (first time I've done this), but I've ran into a problem.

 

The 4 floor bolts come out without much of a problem. However, 3 of the 4 healboard bolts have sheared. 

 

Not a problem at first I thought. As the healboard and sills all need replacing.

 

The problem I have found now though, is the subframe is sitting on the remaining studs of the broken bolts. As such the subframe won't drop enough for it to slide out.

 

Some of you must have encountered this before. How did you get around it?

 

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#2 Retroman

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Posted 28 October 2017 - 12:58 PM

Its a challenge now...you could take the rear trunnions off, undo the nut and lever off the trunnion and bushes. You will then have a bit more wriggle room. With the rear scuttle in place its awkward, its not a delicate operation, might need some serious riving down and back. If that fails its time to take the radius arms off and cut through the front trunnion pin...if you go in with an angle grinder (use a slitting disc) through the inner bush and cut the pin off, it won't be nice, it sounds drastic but may be the only way, the bush is only 3 or 4 mm wide so amke sure you go in square, at 90 degrees or you may cut into the subframe or trunnion.

  Before removing both the radius arm brackets remove as much muck and debris as possible and soak the bolts (4 on each side) in WD40, and even apply heat, like the ones that have snapped they rust badly. Try tightening them a fraction first to break the rust and then work them left and right with plenty of WD, its not easy or quick, but a lot easier than sorting a broken bolt.

  Its unfortunate but the bolts have sheared off long, which is unusual, I guess there has been some not so good bolts used before.....either use stainless or blather the new ones in copper slip when rebuilding.



#3 dyshipfakta

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Posted 28 October 2017 - 12:59 PM

You could try and undo the trunion pins and it should all come away. Or get a Dremel in and cut off the snapped studs. Can't think of much else really

#4 Homersimpson

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Posted 28 October 2017 - 03:20 PM

Trying removing the rear bushes as mentioned above, if this doesn't give you enough room then your going to need to start cutting or be a bit more brutal with the subframe, are you reusing the subframe?



#5 Steve220

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Posted 28 October 2017 - 03:45 PM

Undo the rear mounts, hinge the rear the subframe down, pull.

#6 pusb

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Posted 28 October 2017 - 05:01 PM

Thanks everyone for the advice.

How easy is it to get the rear mounts off?

#7 Retroman

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Posted 29 October 2017 - 10:20 AM

Its the easiest bit to try, as per my 1st sentence....



#8 jaysmini1983

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Posted 02 November 2017 - 12:19 PM

Can you pull it forward a little bit and get a hacksaw blade in and start cutting. 



#9 ga2davt

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Posted 02 November 2017 - 01:19 PM

I had the same problems a few weeks ago.  Very painful... 

 

An angle grinder got the sub frame off, then I released this was shot as well and needed replacing ...

 

It costs a lot to get new rear sub-frame, then parts & labor for welding full heel board, both sills and inner sills ...  and hassle to get a Mini without rear sub frame to the garage for them to do the work..  

 

Ended up taking the front sub-frame off then (this weekend) lifting it onto  a truck & drive to garage .. 

 

I hope yours is easier !!!



#10 pusb

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 11:47 AM

Well I've got the rear trunnions off, however at a cost.

 

Passenger side trunnion stud sheared straight off. Whats concerning is I was putting hardly any pressure on it at all. I've had to use more force to open a jam jar!

 

Looks like the stud had rusted completely through. It makes you think about what would happen if it broke whilst driving?

 

Anyway, does this suggest that the subframe isn't as rot free as I initially thought? And is that stud replaceable? From what I can see it looks as though its welded to the subframe.

 

And after all that I still couldn't get the subframe to drop anyway!

 

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#11 Ethel

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 11:59 AM

I would have said, if it's a full restoration, open up the back of the sills to cut out the whats left of the seized bolts & mounting. Actually, you'll be doing that anyway to get something to put new bolts in to.



#12 Retroman

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 01:36 PM

   Looking at that trunnion bolt....its weird, a bolt so big would not rust right through, the rest of the car would disintegrate to dust first.

 

It looks to me like someone has cut it off and stuck the washer on with the nut some how, there is no sign of you shearing it off and the rust looks like its right across, which would never happen. To shear a bolt so big would take a 3 foot bar and the treads would break first as they are thinner. They can go rusty on the outside and grow /stick into the rubber bushes.

 

Someone has basically knackered the subframe as the back 2 trunnions are welded in...



#13 pusb

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 01:51 PM

Ok, so after a long break I am back on this.

 

I've decided to do what has been suggested by some on here and undo the trunnion pin, presumably then the subframe will just slide off the pin?

 

Anyway, I've got the radius arm off, come off surprisingly easy.

 

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Now my question here is this nut in the middle of the picture the only thing holding the subframe onto the mount? If I undo this will the subframe just slide off it?

 

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#14 GraemeC

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 02:02 PM

You'll need to take that nut off then pull the pin out of the subframe (both sides obviously). 

The subframe should then drop down.

 

The pins look like this:

http://www.minispare...|Back to search



#15 pusb

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 02:05 PM

You'll need to take that nut off then pull the pin out of the subframe (both sides obviously). 

The subframe should then drop down.

 

The pins look like this:

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

 

Thanks :) 

 

They're a bit pricey aren't they for something that's just a metal pin?!






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