7 replies to this topic

[CTRdemon]

Hi all,

 

I posted a few weeks ago after picking up an 1985 Mini Ritz (998).  Since then I have been trying the basics and getting it to bloody start!

 

I have been troubleshooting issue after issue.  So, I have been...

 

• Taking off the HIF44 carb & fitting HS4
• Checking all spark plugs work
• Float in carb seems to be working, it fills up ok
• Fuel gets delivered (by leaks out the bottom of the inlet)
• The compression is at [Cyl 1 - 140]...[Cyl 2 - 150]...[Cyl 3 - 160]...[Cly 4 - 142] (I know these are a little low but I have read they are not "terrible" and some minis have been knows to run ok on 125)

 

I think I know why it may not have been starting.  The inlet manifold had a nut missing, one of the studs has sheered off on the left side.  The 2 underneath were undone and the only one tight was the one on the right.  I have just taken the manifold off and going to try and get the sheered stud out and fit the original back on.

 

I thought I would get a pic of inside and post it here to see what people think.  Apparently this car had some "work" done, as in engine stripped and new gaskets fitted etc (about 4 years ago).

 

From these pics, how does it look inside?  If you can actually tell anything from them?  I am a noob so I don't know what I should be seeing (or not seeing here)

 

I am going to go back out now to put the new gasket on and refit the original inlet manifold, tighten ALL the nuts and see how I get on.

 

Thanks for any comments!

Attached Files

•  998-inlet-left.jpeg   37.4K   1 downloads
•  998-inlet-right.jpeg   33.83K   0 downloads

[Cooperman]

It looks like the valve guide bosses have been ground back a bit, but not as far as they can for optimum flow.

 

With a project like that personally I would partly strip the engine by taking the head to pieces, re-lapping in the valves, fit new valve stem seals and check the springs.

 

If you really want to do it properly you could take the engine out, remove it from the gearbox, check the diff pin for wear (in practice change it), replace the main, big end and thrust bearings, fit a new oil pump and water pump, hone the bores and fit new piston rings, re-build the head and fit all new gaskets. That way you will also be able to paint the block & head and it will look super and you will know the engine is good for the future. When re-building it you can clean out the carb and check the fuel pump and distributor.

 

Good luck with the project. Post some more photos.

[CTRdemon]

Thanks for the reply.  I could tell from the pictures that it looked like something had been done, but I couldn't tell you what.

 

 

With a project like that personally I would partly strip the engine by taking the head to pieces, re-lapping in the valves, fit new valve stem seals and check the springs.

 

If you really want to do it properly you could take the engine out, remove it from the gearbox, check the diff pin for wear (in practice change it), replace the main, big end and thrust bearings, fit a new oil pump and water pump, hone the bores and fit new piston rings, re-build the head and fit all new gaskets. That way you will also be able to paint the block & head and it will look super and you will know the engine is good for the future. When re-building it you can clean out the carb and check the fuel pump and distributor.

 

Good luck with the project. Post some more photos.

 

Wow that sounds a lot to take on!  I am only getting 1 or 2 hours a week to work on it.  I am not sure how long that would take me to do all that.  Is it fairly straight forward to take the head to pieces?  I have got a haynes manual so I will take a look into it.

 

Thanks, I will post some when it isn't in such a state 

Edited by CTRdemon, 06 November 2017 - 04:41 PM.

[Cooperman]

It takes about 15 mins to dismantle the head. You need a valve spring compressor.
If you are going to put the same valves back in they need to go in the positions from which they came out. I get a piece of cardboard about 12" long, make 8 equally spaced holes, number them and put the valves in the holes in the order they were in the head.
Re-lap them in before finally re-assembling. If the guides are worn it is wise to fit new ones plus nee valves. If you need to do this the valve seats will need re-cutting and the new valves grinding in.

[timmy850]

Are the spark plug leads on in the right order and is the base timing in the ballpark? 

[CTRdemon]

Thanks cooperman for all the advice, I will bookmark this page for future reference. I think that sound like a bit too much for me at the moment, especially with winter on the doorstep.

I want to get it running so I can take it for the MOT and then it will be stored in a better location for me to work on it 4-5hours a week (rather than the 1-2hrs now). Then I would probably feel a bit more adventurous to take the head off etc.

Timmy850: Yeah, they are in the right order. As for the base timing I have no idea, I will have to do a bit of research and find out how to check, thanks for the tip.

[gazza82]

Has it ever run?

 

Is it new fuel or stale?

[CTRdemon]

gazza82:  It has run but it has been a few years.  You know what, the fuel will be really quite old!  I might have to gerry can full and see if that helps (when I get the manifolds back on it).