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68 Later Reshell Returning Some Period Features......and Some Other Stuff


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#76 robj2502

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Posted 30 April 2018 - 01:37 PM

So, I actually managed to get everything together and get it dropped off at KAD:

 

Also needed the flywheel and clutch:

fhEYx7O.jpg

 

yLBmya5.jpg

 

This is an MED ST1 ultralight full assembly

 

the crank damper:

 

nV76N7w.jpg

 

8uc4KTg.jpg

 

Again an MED unit with trigger wheel (I dont intend on using the trigger at the present but thought it would be good to have for future options)

 

And all the bits together ready to go:

3unvG8z.jpg

 

So intended spec is offset bored 73.5, cam bearings replaced, block skimmed to suit compression ratio - 11:1, 5/16 gearbox fixings, centre main strap, complete crank assembly balance and threaded oil gallery plugs.

 

Hopefully it will be ready in a couple of weeks for collection (both they and me have busy schedules at the minute so it may be delayed!!)



#77 robj2502

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 03:52 PM

So with the block assembly with KAD and machine work due to take place next week I set about getting some of the bits and pieces together I have bought ready for the build and to start checking I have everything required to get the engine back together:

 

Alternator and starter motor:

9L98fLn.jpg

 

b1guzFO.jpg

 

I went with these 2 Brise items as not only are they smaller and significantly lighter than the originals they should also be ultra reliable.

 

Cam:

sDibpjc.jpg

 

I went with the swiftune SW10 in the end as think it should suit my intended spec

 

Along with the dizzy to match the cam spec:

6wn2zSp.jpg

 

Also have the 5/16 gearbox set (there are copper gaskets in the cardboard FYI) from MED along with thier upgraded crank bolts:

mKJMdt1.jpg

 

BMyzXGa.jpg

 

Just need to make the final decision on gearbox spec and will then get those parts ordered which should hopefully be this week and also see if I have the time to build it or if I will ship it out to be built



#78 robj2502

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 04:08 PM

I have also been doing some work on a spare set of doors I picked up and have finally made enough progress to include them within the thread. 

 

So a standard set of reasonable condition doors:

pH2zBg6.jpg

 

e6nVK02.jpg

 

All of the bits of trim and windows etc were then removed:

XOh2eYb.jpg

 

and the door marked up:

FnnpEaY.jpg

 

and this lot cut out:

KXIfv7e.jpg

 

Leaving me with this:

3jxnTGN.jpg

 

and then with the skin removed and tidied up a little:

J03nbRK.jpg

 

Then made these 2 little bits:

pbVCnj3.jpg

 

drilled some holes here

P0NrHte.jpg

 

and then Welded those and this bar in:

jcIuj76.jpg

 

dWlHv3C.jpg

 

Yes its a BOM ripoff, but its a good idea! its also surprising how much stiffer the door is now and whilst I intend on having a cage I dont want the door bars as they can make access in and out of the car a PITA and the car less "useable" so this is a good solution. I just need to tidy some of the welds and want to strengthen the door pull area (will triangulate to the new bar) and then they will get reskinned.


Edited by robj2502, 16 May 2018 - 04:08 PM.


#79 Northernpower

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 04:41 PM

I have also been doing some work on a spare set of doors I picked up and have finally made enough progress to include them within the thread. 

 

So a standard set of reasonable condition doors:

pH2zBg6.jpg

 

e6nVK02.jpg

 

All of the bits of trim and windows etc were then removed:

XOh2eYb.jpg

 

and the door marked up:

FnnpEaY.jpg

 

and this lot cut out:

KXIfv7e.jpg

 

Leaving me with this:

3jxnTGN.jpg

 

and then with the skin removed and tidied up a little:

J03nbRK.jpg

 

Then made these 2 little bits:

pbVCnj3.jpg

 

drilled some holes here

P0NrHte.jpg

 

and then Welded those and this bar in:

jcIuj76.jpg

 

dWlHv3C.jpg

 

Yes its a BOM ripoff, but its a good idea! its also surprising how much stiffer the door is now and whilst I intend on having a cage I dont want the door bars as they can make access in and out of the car a PITA and the car less "useable" so this is a good solution. I just need to tidy some of the welds and want to strengthen the door pull area (will triangulate to the new bar) and then they will get reskinned.

I've thought about doing something similar but haven't got round to it. Was the door fitted when you welded the bar in or, if not, how did you make it square to make sure it fits in the opening?



#80 robj2502

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 09:46 AM

 

I have also been doing some work on a spare set of doors I picked up and have finally made enough progress to include them within the thread. 

 

So a standard set of reasonable condition doors:

 

All of the bits of trim and windows etc were then removed:

 

and the door marked up:

 

and this lot cut out:

 

Leaving me with this:

 

and then with the skin removed and tidied up a little:

 

Then made these 2 little bits:

 

drilled some holes here

 

and then Welded those and this bar in:

 

Yes its a BOM ripoff, but its a good idea! its also surprising how much stiffer the door is now and whilst I intend on having a cage I dont want the door bars as they can make access in and out of the car a PITA and the car less "useable" so this is a good solution. I just need to tidy some of the welds and want to strengthen the door pull area (will triangulate to the new bar) and then they will get reskinned.

I've thought about doing something similar but haven't got round to it. Was the door fitted when you welded the bar in or, if not, how did you make it square to make sure it fits in the opening?

 

I did trial fit the door in the shell in the first instance as this also made sense to me. However, there is still too much movement in the frame to be really accurate and its difficult without the skin in position to judge where you are in relation to the opening. In the end I laid the door down on a flat surface checked it was the same as a standard door (what gaps there were to the surface - if that makes sense?) and then welded it in. I havent managed to check it back in the shell yet. Also whilst the door is significantly stiffer there is still movement if wanted (although admittedly significantly more force is now required) if adjustment is needed.

 

Also rewatching episode 8 and looking at how BOM have done it they just clamped it to a straight edge across the door (although they did have more structure on the inside face than me) I may check using this method with mine as it hadnt really occured to me before now to do this simple check. Even though I have watched this episode multiple times.  

 

Link to video - think the door bar section starts somewhere around 3 and a half minutes:

 


Edited by robj2502, 17 May 2018 - 03:12 PM.


#81 1330RG

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 09:52 AM

Are you doing a mk1 sliding window conversion or just going for lexan windows with a small square slider?

#82 robj2502

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 11:05 AM

Are you doing a mk1 sliding window conversion or just going for lexan windows with a small square slider?

Just realised I hadnt mentioned this above! Yes, I will be fitting Mk1 type sliding windows as per the streetfighter style doors. The windows will also be Lexan to save a little weight and due to the fact that the opening is bigger than Mk1 glass.

 

Streetfighter style doors available from the mini door company for those that may not have seen them:

 

PFDiA3a.png

 

Be7Msys.png

 

I will be going steel skins not alloy as per the above. I probably would have purchased a set of these however I wanted the door bar, didnt like the idea of dissimilar metals (ask any Landrover defender owner!) and also knew that the door pull area would be flimsy (Which it is even with a full inner door skin) and I wanted to address this.


Edited by robj2502, 18 May 2018 - 11:38 AM.





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