12 replies to this topic

[Agus1601]

Hi guys! I think my 1310cc engine is not running ok atm and needs a complete rebuild

 

Instead I also got an original sealed 1098cc engine that needs rebuild too

 

Which engine should I rebuild for perfect road/track use?

 

Capable of nice 80 whp with the bits needed, also would like to know about those bits for each engine

 

I have the money to invest asi I want it to be my daily driver and also the car for my life

 

Thanks

Agustin

[nicklouse]

the 1275.

 

as far as the engine goes two very different engines.

 

but i would be just looking a the current one. like have you seen what the pressure is yet for the fuel?

[Minigman]

The 1275 without doubt.

A mildly tweaked 1275 would out perform a top spec 1098 all day long, and if built well will have a lot more high rev and subsequently greater bhp capability for track use.

1098 is a fine low revving torquey road engine though.

[Northernpower]

Hi guys! I think my 1310cc engine is not running ok atm and needs a complete rebuild

 

Instead I also got an original sealed 1098cc engine that needs rebuild too

 

Which engine should I rebuild for perfect road/track use?

 

Capable of nice 80 whp with the bits needed, also would like to know about those bits for each engine

 

I have the money to invest asi I want it to be my daily driver and also the car for my life

 

Thanks

Agustin

Reading your other thread why do you think the engine needs a complete rebuild? From the posts you've made there's nothing to suggest it's a mechanical issue, it sounds more like a set up problem.

[Retroman]

The 1275 without doubt.

A mildly tweaked 1275 would out perform a top spec 1098 all day long, and if built well will have a lot more high rev and subsequently greater bhp capability for track use.

1098 is a fine low revving torquey road engine though.

   If the 1098 is a 'top spec' bored to 68 mm (1217cc)  with a good 12g295 or 1275 head, decent fast road cam and good carb it will rival any mildly tweeked 1275, as would a flying 1000cc, I've done it and seen it done many times, but has to be 'top spec' small bore. Well tuned they are good for a reliable 80 horses, and should not be underestimated, both the 998 and 1098 are highly tune-able.

[Minigman]

Not disagreeing on the 1098 potential being 80ish horses but if you were building a track engine from scratch the 1275 would be a better option. The 1098s dont have the 1275 potential for track use where high revs are likely needed - great for road use though. Totally agree on the 998s. Im a small bore fan, my daily is a well tuned 998 with twin SUs, 266 cam and 12G295 head and makes almost 60bhp, with 3.44FD its great for road use but I still get blown away against a stage 3 tuned 1275.

Edited by Minigman, 16 November 2017 - 01:10 PM.

[nicklouse]

 

The 1275 without doubt.

A mildly tweaked 1275 would out perform a top spec 1098 all day long, and if built well will have a lot more high rev and subsequently greater bhp capability for track use.

1098 is a fine low revving torquey road engine though.

   If the 1098 is a 'top spec' bored to 68 mm (1217cc)  with a good 12g295 or 1275 head, decent fast road cam and good carb it will rival any mildly tweeked 1275, as would a flying 1000cc, I've done it and seen it done many times, but has to be 'top spec' small bore. Well tuned they are good for a reliable 80 horses, and should not be underestimated, both the 998 and 1098 are highly tune-able.

 

spend that money on a 1275 and you can blow the others into the dirt.

[Agus1601]

My 1310cc engine fitted atm goes well but when I start it up and while accelerating it just leaks oil, if you put your hand in the exhaust you get it very dirty, I don´t know what that can be, but I will try first when I get it home to check the fuel pressure off the line before it gets to my pour hs4

 

After that I maybe changing back to the hif44 I used to have, which gave me the worst headache I remember hehe

 

Thanks a lot for your answers, here in Argentina we know have like 30 degrees outside so my mini cant be used

 

Here I leave you some pics of my hif 44 which I think it is not in good condition

Edited by Agus1601, 16 November 2017 - 05:33 PM.

[gazza82]

Exhaust could be soot from too rich fuel mix but if it is more slimy ... you could be blowing oil from worn rings/bores/etc.

[Agus1601]

Exhaust could be soot from too rich fuel mix but if it is more slimy ... you could be blowing oil from worn rings/bores/etc.

I think maybe I am burning oil from rings because it did not have same compression. But I should disasemble my car to do it what I dont want to atm, maybe I will do this work during hot season here so I can use it all the year

[ACDodd]

1098 based road engines are very capable, here is one I specced up earlier this year. However, capacity wins everytime, if you want to accelerate quickly. If you spent the same money on a bigger 1275 based engine especially a 1380 unit, it would blow the 1098 into the weeds!!

The fun thing about the 1150cc based engine below apart from the exceptionally wide torque band (in part due to using an ACD - RT camshaft), is that it was all squeezed into an 850 engine block!!

Ac

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Edited by ACDodd, 19 November 2017 - 08:19 AM.

[Agus1601]

Nice one! I dont want to bore my engine to 1380cc atm maybe leave it as an 1310cc and buy some cam and things to make it better

 

Was thinking of buying a 

http://www.med-engin...mshaft-kits-934

 

Inserting my hif 44 and also buying a good cylinder head

 

But that will be as far as I can go...

[Rorf]

30 degrees C outside and your mini can't be used - then definitely some serious issues with your engine or cooling system.