20 replies to this topic

[Daniel Morrow]

Hi guys,

 

Apologies to drop into your forum like this, but I was hoping I could pick your brains about an issue I'm currently experiencing with Mini!

 

First off, let me introduce myself... My name is Dan and I'm the proud owner of Classic Mini Cooper Sport 1.3 (Year 2000). I've been reading a few posts on here for a while now whenever I experience an issue and for the most part, I've found what I've been looking for, so thank you!

 

The issue I've been having recently regards the battery and the flashing dash light. I replaced the battery a few months ago and the car was running fine. That is until I realised that the positive connector was dangling off when the car just died after stopping and tuning the engine off (usually the lights stay on, red light flashes etc...). I hastily fixed the issue (reconnected the wire) and thought everything was fine, but when I returned to the car a few days later, it refused to start (red light on the dash barely flashed at all, then just disappeared). I thought, it must be the battery again, so I went out and bought an AA charger and placed the battery on charge for a few days before returning to the boot expecting triumph! ... Upon plugging everything back in however, I was greeted with no red flashing dash light, or any sign of power. I'm now at a loss after testing the battery to find its fully charged and the issue must lie elsewhere... 

 

If any of you have experience this, or would just like to help a wonderful little mini get back on the road, I would be very appreciative!

 

Thanks in advance! 

 

Dan.

[MiniLuke]

Have you checked the fuses?

[grck1]

To be clear. When you say flashing red light what do you mean?
The charge warning light doesn't flash, it illuminates when the engine is not running or the alternator is not charging whilst engine running.

If you are referring to a flashing led type light then it's possible it's something to do with a alarm or immobiliser system which could be the problem / cause of no electricity ie immobiliser active

More information needed me thinks.

[Ethel]

I'm not au fait with that newfangled electronics stuff (it's only been 20 years  ), but I imagine, if the batteries been disconnected, the immobiliser needs resetting. I'm sure there'll be a how to on the forum, or somebody cleverer will be along to explain.

[Mervyn]

If the battery lead has come off while the engine was running you may have fried the diode pack in the alternator.

The battery won't have enjoyed being run flat either.

Are you sure it's charged now? Sounds flat to me

Merv

[Steve220]

Have you put a multimeter over the terminals to see the voltage whilst running and not? Also to check for amperage drain?

[Daniel Morrow]

Hey guys,

 

Thanks for the speedy responses, I really do appreciate it!

 

Just to clarify, the red light I was referring to immobilizer/alarm light just off to the left of the steering wheel. The one that flashes when you unlock/lock the car and stays red when the immobilizer is on etc...

 

I'm no expert when it comes to these things, but when I changed the battery the last time, this red light came on instantly (solid) and I could disarm it, jump in and fire up the car. This time however, I got nothing. Not even a little flicker and turning the key in the ignition did nothing. The weird thing is, this light was popping on occasionally before I took the battery out to charge it, but every time I hit the 'unlock'alarm off button' it would flicker extremely slowly, before disappearing (my assumption - the battery is flat). If indeed the immobilizer is active, but the light doesn't come on/nor am I getting power to deactivate it, what can I do? 

 

I checked over the battery again last night, attaching a volt meter and its reading at 13.0, which is more or less full? 

 

I've not checked over the fusses yet, which will more than likely be the next port of call (not entirely sure where they're located, but I remember seeing an image of them being off to the left near the front of the engine bay).  

 

Thanks again! 

 

Dan. 

 

 

 

[Steve220]

Dan,

 

apologies if you've already covered this, but does the engine start and run at the moment?

[Daniel Morrow]

Hey Steve

 

Sorry, I'm not being the clearest, you'll have to excuse me.

 

As it stands, the engine doesn't turn over at the moment. I turn the key and get nothing, not even an attempt/cough/sound (completely dead), as it would be if the battery was flat or the immobilizer on? None of the dials move either though, which makes me think its a power/electricity problem. It just seems like the power isn't getting from the battery to wherever it needs to be.

 

Thanks,

Dan.  

[jamesmpi]

If you disconnect the battery then you need to reset the immobiliser. Press the lock button on your fob 5 times and then press the unlock button. The indicators should flash on the dash and the immobiliser light on dash should turn off. Now the engine should start

Edited by jamesmpi, 21 November 2017 - 07:57 PM.

[CityEPete]

It might be an AS3 alarm rather than a AS5 due to the year of the car which has a different recoding system, I can send the details via pm but not until Friday, I'll check back on to see how you are getting on.

[jamesmpi]

Mine is 2000 mpi and that the sequence I use to reset it

Does the red immobiliser light stay on constantly after connecting the battery? If no then there is definitely something wrong somewhere.

Edited by jamesmpi, 21 November 2017 - 08:28 PM.

[CityEPete]

Sorry I'm reading two threads and thought this was a 92 Mayfair not an mpi.

[tiger99]

To answer an earlier question, 13.0V is less than full charge, but should be adequate to start the engine. 12.6V would be getting near minimum, possibly not sufficient for a start, 13.2 would be what you might expect from a full charge some time after charging had ceased. 14.4V when the alternator is charging and there are no heavy electrical loads.

 

But a more revealing test is to see what the voltage does when you briefly switch on an electrical load like the headlights. It will dip slightly but if it stays up towards 13.0V that is good, if it dips below 12.0 that is bad.

 

These voltages depend slightly on the battery temperature, and if you have the car in a nice, warm garage they should be somewhat as stated, possibly slightly lower if the car is cold.

 

There is also the accuracy of your multimeter to consider. If it is a genuine Fluke (arguably the leading brand) and not too many years old, it is quite certain to be accurate. If it is a Chinese item of unknown provenance, beware. Ideally check it against another, however a while back, as someone else was having what I suspected to be a multimeter problem, I measured lots of new Duracell AA batteries (AAA will give the same voltage) and at room temperature (25 deg C) they measured 1.62V, so if you have a fresh pack of 8 to hand, indoors, stick them in series and expect your multimeter to show about 12.96V. Other brands of battery will give different voltages, and I can't comment on the new higher capacity Duracells.

[Daniel Morrow]

Hey guys,

 

Sorry for the delay, but I've been waiting for the battery (which I assumed was the issue) to return. I walked into the garage today, hooked it back up and got absolutely nothing. 

 

So to recap, the battery is new, but I'm getting no power (at all). The headlights wont go one, the flashing red light (left of the steering we'll which flashes when the car is locked/immobilizer is active) is not on, no radio, not engine start, nada... The car is completely dead. I thought it might be an issue with the connectors, but I tightened them up within an inch of their lives. I then had a go at the fuses (little box positioned behind/just to the side of the right hand head light) but those little suckers aren't budging, so before I start tearing the car apart without really knowing what I'm doing, I figured I'd ask if anyone has any more advice... baring that, any advice on a good company to come out and have a look over the pretentious little mite! I kid, I just want to get it back on the road! 

 

Appreciate the help and guidance in advance! 

 

Thanks,

Dan.

Edited by Daniel Morrow, 16 December 2017 - 05:28 PM.