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Stuck Cylinder Head


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#1 aml1989

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 12:25 PM

Hello Mini enthusiasts!

Apologies for asking it again, but any advice on removing a cylinder head from the cylinder block?
I have a 2000 Mini Cooper (1275 Rover MPI) and have followed the steps in the Haynes manual...
When removing the nuts holding on the cylinder head one of the studs came out with the nut (front right). Will this change any torque settings as I reassemble/do I need to put the students in before the nut?
I have seen on here the front centre stud also located the cylinder head on the cylinder (and it does look like a more snug fit than the others) - do I need to remove this to let the cylinder head come off? If so, how?

I've tried hitting the head with a rubber mallet with no luck and some string in a cylinder (haven't tried a breaker bar - engine is still in the car so did 4th gear and spin the wheels).
Any other suggestions? Will I cause damage if I use a blowtorch? Is there a particular cylinder the string has to be in (or oil if I try that)?

Cheers!
- Andy.

#2 Northernpower

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 12:31 PM

The first thing I would do would be to remove all the head studs. Once you have do that the only thing holding the head will be the head gasket. With some gentle pursuasion the head will come off.



#3 aml1989

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 01:06 PM

Any special way to remove the studs?
All I have is a thread poking up above the head - not the easiest thing to grip...

#4 nicklouse

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 01:37 PM

two nuts.



#5 Ethel

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 01:38 PM

The usual technique it to put 2 nuts on to tighten against each other and allow you to wind the stud out with the  bottom nut. You might do better with a plain nut on the bottom if yours are flanged. If there's enough thread 2 flanges against each other would be best.

 

 

...beaten to it with waffling  :dozing:  If they're still playing awkward a hammer tap on the top may help loosen the other end, use a nut wound on flush to protect the threads. 



#6 Northernpower

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 01:41 PM

If they are difficult to remove, every time you remove one just see the there is any movement on the head.



#7 aml1989

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 04:53 PM

^^ I owe you guys a pint if I ever meet you.
Front centre stud was reluctant to come out but all 5 front studs removed and head is off.
Thanks everyone!

#8 Northernpower

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 05:11 PM

^^ I owe you guys a pint if I ever meet you.
Front centre stud was reluctant to come out but all 5 front studs removed and head is off.
Thanks everyone!

Thats great news, well done. Now you have the head off don't forget to remove the other studs to enable you to completely clean the block face prior to putting the new gasket on. Why are you removing it?



#9 aml1989

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 06:16 PM

That's the plan, waiting for daylight to get the last ones off.
The engine ran incredibly smokey after sitting on the drive for a few years so changing head/exhaust/rocker cover gaskets.
Initially sat with a seized open clutch (linkage jammed on the flywheel cover housing) and corrosion inside the clutch slave cylinder. They're fixed/replaced so once cleaned up I can start rebuilding - hasn't run under it's own power since September 2014 so it feels good to get progress!

#10 Northernpower

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 06:31 PM

That's the plan, waiting for daylight to get the last ones off.
The engine ran incredibly smokey after sitting on the drive for a few years so changing head/exhaust/rocker cover gaskets.
Initially sat with a seized open clutch (linkage jammed on the flywheel cover housing) and corrosion inside the clutch slave cylinder. They're fixed/replaced so once cleaned up I can start rebuilding - hasn't run under it's own power since September 2014 so it feels good to get progress!

I don't know what work you're planning to do to the head (and sorry if you're experienced) but don't forget when you take the valves out to fit new valve stem seals.




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