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Door Panel Lip


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#1 joet999

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 09:31 PM

Hello,

 

Going to put some new skins on some frames. What is everyones best tool for getting the lip folded over and set. I saw a video of some monster pincher type things but i don't know where to get them from.

 

Or are we just going with the hammer and wood that will do.

 

Any ideas gratefully accepted.

 

Cheers



#2 Tupers

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 10:35 PM

I use one of these to do the final folding on the door skin after gently hammering it over about 3/4 of the way with a large dolly on the outside of the skin.

You can normally find them on eBay a bit cheaper and sometimes 2nd hand.

https://www.frost.co...ding-panel.html

#3 sonikk4

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Posted 02 December 2017 - 11:11 PM

Personally I always use a hammer and dolly. I do own a flange folder but it left marks on the folded flange.

Wood is no good as it does not react well, hence why you need a metal dolly. You can buy a hammer and dolly set quite cheaply that will do the job.

#4 minibitsuk

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 09:26 AM

I have a door skin tool I bought new from eBay it was like £50 but works great it has nylon interchangeable heads I’ve used it for the a panel lip too very happy with it

#5 joet999

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 06:39 PM

Cheers Gents,

I will have a look at the tool, looks like you are talking about the same tool but the sounds of it.

 

Don't want to commit too much as i only plan on doing it once, but don't want to ruin my heritage skins trying to do it on the cheap. The age old fine line.



#6 Daz1968

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 06:26 PM

I used a door skinning hammer and a flat dolly, works pretty well and the hammer comes in handy for other areas of panel beating due to its shape

https://www.machinem...voaAgeGEALw_wcB

Edited by Daz1968, 04 December 2017 - 06:27 PM.


#7 minibitsuk

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 05:06 PM

I could lend you mine if you want to pay the postage ? Pm me cheers

#8 Ben_O

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 07:08 PM

Hammer and dolly gives the best finish.

 

The skinning tool is really only used for final tightening of the fold.

If you try and use a door skinning tool before fully folding the skin, it will leave you with kinks and ripples like Neil said.

 

So either way, you will need to fold it with a hammer and dolly first and if you do it nicely, you will not even need the skinning tool.

 

Door skinning requires a lot of patience. Each run of the fold (bottom and sides) should be done in stages.

You want to hold your dolly firmly to the outside of the skin and gently start hammering the skin over the frame.

For example, start one side of the bottom and start hammering the skin over about a third of the way, do this all the way along. Then start again hammering it a further third and then again the rest of the way. 

Keep the flat of your hammer nice and square or you will end up with blow marks on the folded edge.

 

I usually run a body file over the outside of the skin after folding is finished along the bottom and up the sides to even out any slight imperfections but this stage isn't really necessary unless you have a file.

 

Good luck

 

Ben 



#9 sonikk4

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 12:12 AM

Hammer and dolly gives the best finish.

 

The skinning tool is really only used for final tightening of the fold.

If you try and use a door skinning tool before fully folding the skin, it will leave you with kinks and ripples like Neil said.

 

So either way, you will need to fold it with a hammer and dolly first and if you do it nicely, you will not even need the skinning tool.

 

Door skinning requires a lot of patience. Each run of the fold (bottom and sides) should be done in stages.

You want to hold your dolly firmly to the outside of the skin and gently start hammering the skin over the frame.

For example, start one side of the bottom and start hammering the skin over about a third of the way, do this all the way along. Then start again hammering it a further third and then again the rest of the way. 

Keep the flat of your hammer nice and square or you will end up with blow marks on the folded edge.

 

I usually run a body file over the outside of the skin after folding is finished along the bottom and up the sides to even out any slight imperfections but this stage isn't really necessary unless you have a file.

 

Good luck

 

Ben 

 

I use a DA after on the folded flange and the skin. No body file as of yet. On the curved sections that run up the sides of the door i use the rounded panel beating hammer and then for right at the top the pointed hammer, but be careful here.

 

My dolly is a riveting reaction block which is heavier than the dollies you get in a kit.

 

Basically what we are all saying is use what you have to hand but do not rush. When you think you have finished tip the door up and look down the edges, you will clearly see where there are high sections. And make sure the fold is uniformly crisp. Seen a few horrors on here and on doors that have been "professionally?????" re skinned.



#10 joet999

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 10:57 PM

Cheers for the advice,

Turns out my dad has a selection of hammers and dollys. So Im going to go with them as you cant get better than free.

Thanks for the offer minibits but I only get to steal the odd day here and there to work on the mini and I dont know when they are, so you may never get it back. Bloody kid/baby.

If I remember Ill pop a few photos up once they are done and you can tell me where it all went wrong.

Cheers.

#11 joet999

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 11:03 PM


Hammer and dolly gives the best finish.
 
The skinning tool is really only used for final tightening of the fold.
If you try and use a door skinning tool before fully folding the skin, it will leave you with kinks and ripples like Neil said.
 
So either way, you will need to fold it with a hammer and dolly first and if you do it nicely, you will not even need the skinning tool.
 
Door skinning requires a lot of patience. Each run of the fold (bottom and sides) should be done in stages.
You want to hold your dolly firmly to the outside of the skin and gently start hammering the skin over the frame.
For example, start one side of the bottom and start hammering the skin over about a third of the way, do this all the way along. Then start again hammering it a further third and then again the rest of the way. 
Keep the flat of your hammer nice and square or you will end up with blow marks on the folded edge.
 
I usually run a body file over the outside of the skin after folding is finished along the bottom and up the sides to even out any slight imperfections but this stage isn't really necessary unless you have a file.
 
Good luck
 
Ben 

 
I use a DA after on the folded flange and the skin. No body file as of yet. On the curved sections that run up the sides of the door i use the rounded panel beating hammer and then for right at the top the pointed hammer, but be careful here.
 
My dolly is a riveting reaction block which is heavier than the dollies you get in a kit.
 
Basically what we are all saying is use what you have to hand but do not rush. When you think you have finished tip the door up and look down the edges, you will clearly see where there are high sections. And make sure the fold is uniformly crisp. Seen a few horrors on here and on doors that have been "professionally?????" re skinned.

By DA do you mean dual action sander?

#12 sonikk4

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 01:03 AM

 

 

Hammer and dolly gives the best finish.
 
The skinning tool is really only used for final tightening of the fold.
If you try and use a door skinning tool before fully folding the skin, it will leave you with kinks and ripples like Neil said.
 
So either way, you will need to fold it with a hammer and dolly first and if you do it nicely, you will not even need the skinning tool.
 
Door skinning requires a lot of patience. Each run of the fold (bottom and sides) should be done in stages.
You want to hold your dolly firmly to the outside of the skin and gently start hammering the skin over the frame.
For example, start one side of the bottom and start hammering the skin over about a third of the way, do this all the way along. Then start again hammering it a further third and then again the rest of the way. 
Keep the flat of your hammer nice and square or you will end up with blow marks on the folded edge.
 
I usually run a body file over the outside of the skin after folding is finished along the bottom and up the sides to even out any slight imperfections but this stage isn't really necessary unless you have a file.
 
Good luck
 
Ben 

 
I use a DA after on the folded flange and the skin. No body file as of yet. On the curved sections that run up the sides of the door i use the rounded panel beating hammer and then for right at the top the pointed hammer, but be careful here.
 
My dolly is a riveting reaction block which is heavier than the dollies you get in a kit.
 
Basically what we are all saying is use what you have to hand but do not rush. When you think you have finished tip the door up and look down the edges, you will clearly see where there are high sections. And make sure the fold is uniformly crisp. Seen a few horrors on here and on doors that have been "professionally?????" re skinned.

By DA do you mean dual action sander?

 

 

Yes i do.






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