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Smootha Ride, & Sticky Rubber Cones

suspension

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#1 DUF2

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 03:46 PM

I have recently bought a 1965 Riley Elf. The car has in the past had a lot of money spent on it.
The front of the car is very low, I thought all I needed to do was blow up the hydrolastic suspension. However the car has been converted to dry suspension.
So I have bought a pair of hi Los to lift the front up a bit. In the meantime I have attempted to change the knuckle joints on the rear.( rubber gaiters on all knuckles well split) I am having serious trouble with the rubber cones sticking to the trumpets. As I had quite a bit of hassle getting the trumpets out with the cones attached, I need to remove the cone from the trumpet to allow re assembly, they are well stuck!!! Advice needed on the best way to unstick the cones? Also how to prevent them sticking in the future?
I know I need a cone compressor for the front and when I checked the rear cones they are imperial threaded. I have bought the puller with imperial thread, this fits the front cones. I presume that with the cones being imperial threaded they will be quite old and will need to be replaced.
As I already have the HiLos, I'm intending to change the front cones for Smootha rides ( I will do the rears some time in the future if needed.)
I have searched back on the forum for info on the Smootha ride, I think this will be the way to go for me as the Riley does not need the solid ride associated with standard cones.
Any advice and comments would be gratefully appreciated.
Many thanks
Gordon

#2 MatthewsDad

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 04:18 PM

I found it was easier to remove the cones first, using plus-gas on the corroded joint between cone and trumpet, and then force on the cone (not the trumpet as you might damage it). With the cone out it's then possible to knock out the knuckle joint using a long drift through the centre of the trumpet, with plus-gas first. Then just a smear of copper grease around the collar of the new cone before inserting into trumpet.

#3 Spider

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 05:37 PM

I do similar to MathewsDad.

 

Just one other thing I would add though is to avoid getting grease on the rubber of the cone and also put some grease on the thread in the Cone of the new Cones.

 

Yours having an Imperial Thread are likely the originals. They would almost be like concrete !!



#4 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 06:30 PM

What fun I had when I used to rebuild front subframes, seperating the aluminium trumpet from the steel based cone to get everything out.

 

Hopefully, you are fully replacing cone along with HiLo

 

In this case, unless you want to keep the cones and trumpets for prosperity, get them apart by any needs possible.I used to put a chisel between the cone and trumpet and go for it. The cone let go of the trumpet eventually, and even gave a full trumpet back with the odd mark. The trumpet can sometimes crack / fracture with stress when removing the knuckle depending how you extract them, again as metal and aluminium are not the best, as they meld together.

 

With a new cone and HiLo, smear a bit of grease around the bottom of the cone on the steel, and as Moke says, put some grease around the thread of the nut on the new cone. The grease on the base of the trumpet will serve not to let the new kit seize together like their counterparts should you ever need to separate at a later date for any reason. Importantly, oil / grease the thread of the HiLo, and with the HiLo fully home while off the car, cover the centre of HiLo over in grease to stop water and damp ingress and just lying there, that is where the grease around the base of the new cone comes in effectively too.

 

When replacing, don't put the little rebound buffer on until you have got the top arm, HiLo and trumpet all back in. Then, while the cone is still compressed, put the buffer in then

 

While it is all out, check the top arm bearings and shafts, may as well as your at it, replacement kits are about £12 a side.

 

Little tip - When putting the top arms back, fold the rubber dust cover over the front of the arm / body of arm, and then when you put the large thrust washer and cover plate over and have secured the plate back with the 2 x  1/4 inch bolts, you can then peel the front dust cover back into place nice and easy, the back washer and dust cover hold their own while refitting, you just cant do the 2 together successfully and without lots of swearing.

 

Good Luck



#5 DUF2

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 12:54 PM

Well, limited success, I have now managed to get the donut off the trumpet, unfortunately the donut came off leaving the steel insert still stuck on the alloy trumpet!
I have now succeeded in getting the steel insert off the trumpet, at least this will allow me to temporarily refit the rear suspension. I realise I will need to replace the donut in the future, but am not certain whether I want a Smootha ride donut or a standard donut on the back.
I think I will make my decision once I have tried the Smootha Rides on the front. I have lots of other work to do and do nut expect the car to be anywhere near ready for the road until spring.





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