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Clutch Cover To Engine Bolts; Locktabs


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#1 KJM

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 06:50 PM

Im going to assemble my engine together soon but I dont have the three locktabs any more from the clutch casing plate to engine... are these essential or could I build without them? Mini spares dont seem to stock new ones!

https://imgur.com/a/4PUWS
Cant seem to get the picture shown here, I type the [ img ] then paste the link then [/ img ] but it comes up as a link! (But without the spaces!)

Edited by KJM, 20 December 2017 - 06:58 PM.


#2 panky

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 07:13 PM

I just used spring washers and a dab of thread lock

When you post an image off Imgur just paste the link into your reply, you don't need the img insertion bit.



#3 Spider

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 09:07 PM

I haven't used them for years.

 

All I have been using is spring washers and plain nuts, no issues.  If I can also point out, all the external nuts (or bolts on the later boxes) have no lock tabs and how many of these come loose?



#4 Northernpower

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 09:13 PM

Im going to assemble my engine together soon but I dont have the three locktabs any more from the clutch casing plate to engine... are these essential or could I build without them? Mini spares dont seem to stock new ones!

https://imgur.com/a/4PUWS
Cant seem to get the picture shown here, I type the [ img ] then paste the link then [/ img ] but it comes up as a link! (But without the spaces!)

On imgur select the picture you want and a list of option appears on the right. Scroll down to the bottom one and click on the copy tab and then paste that into your thread.

 

As far as the lock tabs are concerned I don't use them, just plain bolts and spring washers torqued up to the correct setting with NO thread lock.



#5 KJM

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 09:27 PM

Ok thanks for the replies, puts my mind at rest as this is the first time building an engine from scratch and wasnt 100% sure about not using them. Thread lock will affect the torque values I think, so Ill just use spring washers as youve all suggested! Thank you very much for your help!
As for imgur, Im using the app which doesnt give me the different options for which link to copy... but I know that imgur on a computer does. I used to use photo bucket but, well we all know the photobucket story...!!

#6 Spider

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 10:18 PM

If you are concerned about the fasteners coming loose, there's no harm in using thread locker or indeed 'staking' the threads. That's were the last bit of thread poking out past the nut is purposely damaged a little so if the nut does come loose, it won't go far. A common tool for doing this is a centre punch. Don't go mad though as you still want to be able to spanner then nut off later.



#7 Northernpower

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 11:00 PM

If you are concerned about the fasteners coming loose, there's no harm in using thread locker or indeed 'staking' the threads. That's were the last bit of thread poking out past the nut is purposely damaged a little so if the nut does come loose, it won't go far. A common tool for doing this is a centre punch. Don't go mad though as you still want to be able to spanner then nut off later.

The only reason I mentioned no thread lock was I helped a friend split his casing and thread lock had been used. I don't know what type had been used but the gearbox threads came out on the bolt.

#8 Spider

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 02:09 AM

 

If you are concerned about the fasteners coming loose, there's no harm in using thread locker or indeed 'staking' the threads. That's were the last bit of thread poking out past the nut is purposely damaged a little so if the nut does come loose, it won't go far. A common tool for doing this is a centre punch. Don't go mad though as you still want to be able to spanner then nut off later.

The only reason I mentioned no thread lock was I helped a friend split his casing and thread lock had been used. I don't know what type had been used but the gearbox threads came out on the bolt.

 

 

I gotta wonder in this case if the threads were so-so to start with and that's why the were loctited in the first place?

 

I'll just back up a little here too as there's a bit of confusion which I don't think I helped !!

 

Prior to about 1984-ish, the Gearboxes had studs for the Transfer Housing, Diff Cap and 2 long ones for the Speedo End cover. I think this is the type of box KJM has and all the gearbox we ever had here were the same. These had locktabs that were used in the transfer housing and there was 2 on the 3/8" studs on the diff cap.

 

I think when they did away with the studs and went to the bolts, there were no locktabs used in production.

 

Personally, I prefer to use studs, especially in the Alloy housings. Rather than the 'pull-twist-cut' action of a tightening a bolt in a thread, I like the idea of just 'pull' from a stud, when the nut is tightened and I wonder if this also lead to the threads coming out in your friend's Gearbox?



#9 Rorf

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 05:38 AM

Probably a throw back to the old English motor bikes that used to vibrate themselves to pieces :lol:



#10 Northernpower

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 11:55 AM

 

 

If you are concerned about the fasteners coming loose, there's no harm in using thread locker or indeed 'staking' the threads. That's were the last bit of thread poking out past the nut is purposely damaged a little so if the nut does come loose, it won't go far. A common tool for doing this is a centre punch. Don't go mad though as you still want to be able to spanner then nut off later.

The only reason I mentioned no thread lock was I helped a friend split his casing and thread lock had been used. I don't know what type had been used but the gearbox threads came out on the bolt.

 

 

I gotta wonder in this case if the threads were so-so to start with and that's why the were loctited in the first place?

 

I'll just back up a little here too as there's a bit of confusion which I don't think I helped !!

 

Prior to about 1984-ish, the Gearboxes had studs for the Transfer Housing, Diff Cap and 2 long ones for the Speedo End cover. I think this is the type of box KJM has and all the gearbox we ever had here were the same. These had locktabs that were used in the transfer housing and there was 2 on the 3/8" studs on the diff cap.

 

I think when they did away with the studs and went to the bolts, there were no locktabs used in production.

 

Personally, I prefer to use studs, especially in the Alloy housings. Rather than the 'pull-twist-cut' action of a tightening a bolt in a thread, I like the idea of just 'pull' from a stud, when the nut is tightened and I wonder if this also lead to the threads coming out in your friend's Gearbox?

 

I've had the odd thread come out but in this case every one came out and you could definitely see the evidence of a thread lock. I tend to agree with you thinking the threads in the casing were on the way out anyway. It was resolved by helicoils.



#11 KJM

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Posted 28 December 2017 - 03:51 PM

Hi all, so just to close the post, I found that Somerford Mini sell the locktab kit for all clutch locktabs; I bought it only for the 3 clutch housing to gearbox ones though...
the Rover part number for this kit is 18G8086
3YUVbJf.jpg
5IkcTwa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3YUVbJf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5IkcTwa.jpg

Edited by KJM, 28 December 2017 - 03:53 PM.





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