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Restoration Dilemma - John Cooper Si


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#16 Chodosh

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 05:24 PM

Bodywork pretty much done now, but for some finishing work and a little seam welding on the inside.

There was a bit more rot than expected in the inner wings but they were salvaged without too much drama.

Whilst the front was off it also gave good access to get into the nooks and crannies to paint the block. The head will be repainted blue and Ill get around to that once I get the car back.

Pretty pleased that the front has come off in one piece. Shout out to @bae1994 for donating a bonnet to the cause.

More updates to come as I get the car back.

If anyone has headlight rings, headlight brackets or a bumper for sale cheap, please let me know.



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#17 Chodosh

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Posted 06 April 2018 - 12:36 PM

Its been a bit quiet on the mini front as I was working on an old Porsche I had which had now been sold.

I sort of got addicted to dismantling, cleaning and painting bits on the mini which has been a bit of fun. It's certainly looking a little smarter, but still some way to go.

I read some other projects on this forum with interest and have tried to pinch ideas from folks who have already done this job. In particular I like the home DIY sandblasting kit which Ive been having some fun with.... trying to refit the silicone hoses was a bit of a pig as I didnt label what went where but I have figured that out with some google research.

My nicely cleaned and painted radiator is now a bit scratched after a fight last night to get it back in. Im also suffering from cuts on 7 knuckles and a bruise to the head from where the bonnet fell on me. Oh well!!

Hopefully the car will be ready to be fired up on the weekend !


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Edited by Chodosh, 06 April 2018 - 12:40 PM.


#18 cal844

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Posted 06 April 2018 - 09:47 PM

If it's an SPI engine you don't need the charcoal canister anymore. I get rid of them anyway and block the pipes up.

Edit: they're ineffective after 5 years anyway 😉

Edited by cal844, 06 April 2018 - 09:48 PM.


#19 FlyingScot

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Posted 06 April 2018 - 10:42 PM

If it's an SPI engine you don't need the charcoal canister anymore. I get rid of them anyway and block the pipes up.
Edit: they're ineffective after 5 years anyway

Says who? Mine still works and it’s a hell of a lot more than 5 years old..

FS

#20 surfblue

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 07:53 PM

Loving the parts in the dishwasher, if I was caught doing that Id be in the canine kennel for ages!  :D



#21 CityEPete

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 08:10 PM

If it's an SPI engine you don't need the charcoal canister anymore. I get rid of them anyway and block the pipes up.
Edit: they're ineffective after 5 years anyway

Says who? Mine still works and its a hell of a lot more than 5 years old..

FS

How do you know if it is doing anything?

#22 r3k1355

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 11:16 AM

If it's an SPI engine you don't need the charcoal canister anymore. I get rid of them anyway and block the pipes up.

 

If it's an Original John Cooper garage car the money is in the originality (with the paperwork obviously)

 

So leave everything as it was, and bin off those aftermarket hoses (sorry)



#23 Chodosh

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 10:11 AM

Perhaps a silly question... what is a charcoal canister? are you referring to the engine breather? It seems to me that the whole breathing system ties into the carb and is pretty essential....

 

On the aftermarket hoses, I am still debating whether they look any good. I am definitely not selling the originals but keep flipping and flopping.

 

The update is that the car is now back in one piece. Trouble is that in cleaning the filthy water pump, I have now done the seals in - great. Radiator out and time to replace it. I also got a pretty stonking deal on a 65 amp alternator from a friend of mine who owns a company called WOSP so I'll be fitting that the help cope with some audio stuff I plan to fit.

 

Car hopefully goes into paint in three weeks time. My dad has queue jumped me twice so have had to be patient.



#24 CityEPete

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 10:53 AM

The charcoal canister is up in the left hand wheel arch, have a look up near the aerial.

#25 Chodosh

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Posted 06 February 2019 - 08:38 PM

Six months later and zero progress. However - I took the car to Guy, who works in the same unit as Stuart @ Vmax and he’s done a nice job disassembling the car so that I can get a proper paint job done.

First was getting the front subframe off and stripping it down ready for a paint and new bushes, cones etc. The engine I will bring home to detail properly now that I get proper access.

While he was at it, I suggested he take a look at the rear subframe, turns out it was pretty shot to pieces so that’s something else for the minispares shopping list.

Currently getting quotes to repaint the shell but at least I’ll be going them the car in the right state for them to do a proper job. Pretty pleased with my rolling dolley made from a pallet and £18 of wheels from Screwfix. That should make life easier.

Plan is to get it painted, new rear subframe, recon the front subframe, new suspension and shocks all round, fit my NOS janspeed twin upswept exhaust and off I go in time for show season.

Just trying to figure out the best method and colour to paint the engine. I did it with a brush in situ but not happy with colour or the finish...

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#26 cal844

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Posted 06 February 2019 - 09:53 PM

Spray it with rattle cans, or now it's out give it a good clean and use thin brush coats.

Paint it the blue of the head with silver rocker cover etc.

Or

Red engine for a free power upgrade ??

Edited by cal844, 06 February 2019 - 09:54 PM.


#27 cp2708

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Posted 07 February 2019 - 07:16 AM

I like that N/S engine steady, is that a kit you bought?

 

Edit, found on Minispares and it won't fit mine as it has a bypass hose :-(


Edited by cp2708, 07 February 2019 - 07:30 AM.


#28 Chodosh

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Posted 03 March 2019 - 04:06 PM

The water pump steady works a treat. Bit of a bugger to fit but neater than those ultimate engine steadies.

Some progress getting the engine bay tidy for paint. Just have to figure out how to disconnect the brake master cylinder...Attached File  C767F5FE-8554-4F7D-B819-9FD7C3D8AE02.jpeg   101.63K   5 downloads

#29 cal844

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Posted 03 March 2019 - 04:57 PM

The water pump steady works a treat. Bit of a bugger to fit but neater than those ultimate engine steadies.

Some progress getting the engine bay tidy for paint. Just have to figure out how to disconnect the brake master cylinder... C767F5FE-8554-4F7D-B819-9FD7C3D8AE02.jpeg


You mean the clutch master cylinder, go under the dashboard and there is a split pin and clevis pin to be removed then the two bolts at the base of the reservoir




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