18 replies to this topic

[docka]

rather than hack someone else's thread i've started my own...

 

I've got a 22G1128 remote gearbox and I've got the bits to convert it to magic wand, all good so far.

 

it currently has the rubber crucifix outputs on the diff. The new engine will be over 100BHP so I'm looking at better driveshafts.

 

Are all these parts interchangeable? what would be the best set up, should I go for S shafts with Hardy spicers and if so will these fit my diff or do i need to change the covers etc?

 

or do i go with modern  shafts and CV joints...

 

thanks

[Spider]

If you can get some QL5000 Unijoints, they fit up with the parts you have, but replace the rubber joint itself. The replacement is nylon fitted with Needle Rollers, and is a more conventional joint. They will handle the power you are thinking of OK without going to the added work and expense of swapping bits over.

 

I'm not sure if they are currently available though.

 

If they aren't available, I'd suggest a swap to Pots as I think this will work out cheaper.

 

You'll need to remove and strip the diff, swap over the output shafts and reassemble, Fit your Pots (they'll fit up to your side covers OK) and you'll need to swap the Drive Shafts (to the CVs) too.

[FlyingScot]

Here you go
https://www.minispar...nts/QL5000.aspx

FS

[hhhh]

I'd go with pots. They deliver more uniform torque and are likely tougher. And I once had a U-joint throw a rock through my case so I'm a little biased.

[dotmatrix]

why do you want to go from remote to magic wand?

[docka]

thanks, i'll give it some thought.

 

£60 for the joints linked to above doesn't seem too bad if i can keep the existing driveshafts (as long as they'll fit Cooper S hubs?)

[docka]

why do you want to go from remote to magic wand?

It's a Mk1 so i don't want to cut a new hole in the tunnel, i'd rather preserve the original look incl magic wand 

[dotmatrix]

 

why do you want to go from remote to magic wand?

It's a Mk1 so i don't want to cut a new hole in the tunnel, i'd rather preserve the original look incl magic wand 

 

 

 

aah. that makes sense

[Spider]

 if i can keep the existing driveshafts (as long as they'll fit Cooper S hubs?)

 

Yeap, no problem.

[docka]

 

 if i can keep the existing driveshafts (as long as they'll fit Cooper S hubs?)

 

Yeap, no problem.

 

cheers Spider

[docka]

I'd go with pots. They deliver more uniform torque and are likely tougher. And I once had a U-joint throw a rock through my case so I'm a little biased.

Ouch. I suppose Hardy Spicers are no better in this regard?

Can anyone price up the components of what I'd need to swap to pot joints or does anyone have this set up for sale so I can compare? Thanks

[Sprocket]

to change over to pot joints from the old rubber coupling joints, you will have to remove the differential from the gearbox, strip it down and change the output shafts to pot joint type. Not a 5 minute job. I'm not sure about the rubber coupling output flange having never worked on them, but i know the hardy spicer coupling output flange requires a different side cover as the support bush and seal are larger.

 

Going a little further with regard to the differential output shafts, there are three types.

• Rubber coupling, identified with a threaded section on the end for a big retaining nut,
• Hardy Spicer, identified with the length of the shaft being the same diameter and a threaded hole in the end of the shaft for a retaining bolt.
• Pot Joint, identified with a reduced diameter and a shoulder just after the splines, not dissimilar to the rubber coupling output shaft, but without the threaded section on the end, and a groove with a spring clip towards the end of the spline.

These are not interchangeable with different types of joint.

 

As for drive shafts, there are only really two types, sliding spline (rubber coupling or Hardy Spicer) and pot joint. All fit either the drum or disc type CV joints. There have been variations of each shaft over the years, but they all fall into one or the other category.

Edited by Sprocket, 13 January 2018 - 09:40 AM.

[Spider]

As for drive shafts, there are only really two types, sliding spline (rubber coupling or Hardy Spicer) and pot joint. All fit either the drum or disc type CV joints. There have been variations of each shaft over the years, but they all fall into one or the other category.

 

For practical purposes, there was only the two, but in reality, there were about 6 or 7 off hand.

 

The very early shafts are somewhat odd ball in that they have 18 splines on the CV end and then from around 60 or 61 they had 19. Also the shape of the involute that slides in to the Unijoint was different (and not interchangeable) on these early shafts, these continued on until about 62 off hand.

 

The Hardie Slipcer Cooper S Type Unis and the Autos had different shafts, they had a bump in them (for ID) and off hand, they are about 3/8" - 1/2" shorter, though I've run Drum Brake shafts in these set ups OK. The early 1071 Cooper S that had rubber joints used a different and unique shaft again.

 

There were a few others too.

[docka]

Ok thanks, so I have a spare rod change 'box from an '81 van which has pot joints on it. 

 

So I should be able to remove the outputs and covers and fit them to the 22G1128 'box? 

[Spider]

Ok thanks, so I have a spare rod change 'box from an '81 van which has pot joints on it. 

 

So I should be able to remove the outputs and covers and fit them to the 22G1128 'box? 

 

All you'll need to swap is the Output Shafts. If the Bushes in the Covers are OK, then no need to swap. The bushes are the same size.

 

Be an idea to overhaul the diff while you're in there.