i would not be doing that. maybe look at an SPi rad that has a suitable hole already in it.
plastic and drilling holes and then pressurising it.
Posted 26 February 2018 - 10:03 PM
i would not be doing that. maybe look at an SPi rad that has a suitable hole already in it.
plastic and drilling holes and then pressurising it.
Posted 27 February 2018 - 07:19 AM
Nick it is a plastic rad, I intend to bond on another piece of plastic to thicken the wall where I intend to drill & tap the bottom tank
Whoa !!! They are dreadful things.
I'd suggest fitting a proper Brass / Copper Radiator. The one that was in your car when it left the factory would have had a Drain Plug like this
Posted 27 February 2018 - 12:31 PM
I've always been able to reach the bottom hose clamp with a long screwdriver. Then just remove it. Simples.
Posted 27 February 2018 - 12:58 PM
What about all the water left in the motor?
Posted 27 February 2018 - 01:02 PM
What about all the water left in the motor?
Posted 27 February 2018 - 01:33 PM
I've always been able to reach the bottom hose clamp with a long screwdriver. Then just remove it. Simples.
It's not the removing it I was worried about - it's the getting it back on!! My hand definitely won't fit down from above! When I get round to replacing the coolant (after various other jobs) I might see if I can reach it any easier from below.
Posted 27 February 2018 - 02:43 PM
you fit before putting the rad in.
attach to pump when rad fitted. simple and easy.
Posted 27 February 2018 - 05:50 PM
If you remove the fittings holding the radiator you are able to manoeurve the radiator enough to give you better access to locate the bottom hose.
When replacing the coolant I usually remove the radiator anyway to flush it out and clean the fins etc.
When reassembling the cowl, radiator fittings etc, I cover the delicate metal of the fins with a piece of card to prevent the fan from damaging them whilst repositioning every thing.
Edited by MikeRotherham, 27 February 2018 - 05:50 PM.
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