7 replies to this topic

[kev-dameerkat]

Hi looking for a bit of help

 

I have am in the process of rebuilding my 2001 MPI after major restoration and at the stage of checking the electrics after connection prior to starting. Problem I have is that the oil pressure light is not coming on when key is at position II. Have checked the bulb as changed it with the battery charge light which does come on. I have cranked the car over but have not started the car and I have oil flow up the engine. Also should my temp and fuel gauge move when I turn the ignition to position II, they currently do not, fuel gauge may not as I have not put fuel in it yet. All other electrics lights, indicators etc appear to be working fine.

 

Kevin

[phillrulz]

Hi looking for a bit of help

 

I have am in the process of rebuilding my 2001 MPI after major restoration and at the stage of checking the electrics after connection prior to starting. Problem I have is that the oil pressure light is not coming on when key is at position II. Have checked the bulb as changed it with the battery charge light which does come on. I have cranked the car over but have not started the car and I have oil flow up the engine. Also should my temp and fuel gauge move when I turn the ignition to position II, they currently do not, fuel gauge may not as I have not put fuel in it yet. All other electrics lights, indicators etc appear to be working fine.

 

Kevin

 

Check the wiring diagram, The oil pressure warning light is fed in series with the voltage reg ( i assume it is one has 3 pins and take earth , supply and outputs to fuel and temp guage) , ignition/charge light, airbag warning all fed via A4 fuse 10A. This i fed from pin "1" on the ignition switch. 

 

 

Ive highlighted the route the electricity should take. I dont know much about MPI but i know electrics. 

 

Id check for voltage on the White wire 

 

I dont know the internal working of the ignition switch. If anyone would post a schematic id appreciate it.

 

Edited by phillrulz, 13 January 2018 - 10:11 PM.

[Sprocket]

Firstly make sure you have plugged in the correct connector. The oil temp and oil pressure are very close to each other and both only have a single wire. The oil pressure switch is the brown connector and the single white/brown wire.

A quick check to see if the wiring is good, is to ground the wire at the connector on the oil pressure switch and the oil temp sensor, just disconnect the connector and jam a stripped back piece of wire in there, and ground the other end to the engine somewhere. Turn the ignition switch to position II. Either the oil pressure warning lamp should be on, or the oil temp gauge will go full hot.

 

The fuel gauge will move only when the ignition is in position II, and only if there is a reasonable level of fuel in the tank. The temp gauge will only move as the engine warms up, obviously.

[kev-dameerkat]

Okay thanks for the tips

 

Good about checking the the correct connector is plugged into the right place. It was not the oil temp and oil pressure I had got wrong but the oil temp and the crank sensor. As I thought blue to blue and black to black but no. This did nothing to solve my problem though.

 

What I have done today was try grounding the oil pressure connector with a bit of wire. Light did not come on. Then tried running a wire from the pressure switch up to the dash and inserted it in at position 11 with the white brown wire at the instrument pack. Wallah light works. So I take it this points to a break in the wire somewhere in the loom. Question is can I just run a new wire from the pressure connector up to the instrument pack or should I try and find where the break is in the loom which could be a right pain.

 

Kevin 

[Sprocket]

Break this down into small manageable chunks.

So you now know there is a break in the wire somewhere.

 

Using a multi meter,Check

• continuity between the thirteen way connector at the bulkhead (engine side) and the connector at the oil pressure switch, white/brown wire.
• continuity between the thirteen way connector at the bulkhead (body side) and the pin on the connector at the clocks, white/brown wire.

It should only be a straight piece of wire with the thirteen way connector in the middle. Likely failure points are right at the connectors, the pins in which can be replaced easily enough.

Edited by Sprocket, 14 January 2018 - 08:13 PM.

[kev-dameerkat]

Okay sorted break in the wire was just at the neck of the connector to the sensor.

 

Thanks for the help

 

Kev 

[tmsmini]

That wire seems to get brittle in that location as I had one with a visible failure but was still making contact.

I undo it when changing the oil filter and it seems to get twisted as well.

Terry

[MIGLIACARS]

Break this down into small manageable chunks.

So you now know there is a break in the wire somewhere.

 

Using a multi meter,Check

• continuity between the thirteen way connector at the bulkhead (engine side) and the connector at the oil pressure switch, white/brown wire.
• continuity between the thirteen way connector at the bulkhead (body side) and the pin on the connector at the clocks, white/brown wire.

It should only be a straight piece of wire with the thirteen way connector in the middle. Likely failure points are right at the connectors, the pins in which can be replaced easily enough.

Sprocket still helping everyone after all these years. Ive used so many of the threads, cheers.