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Rewiring 1000 Hl


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#16 Tonylamb

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 10:13 PM

Centre speedo is all done and all electrics are working fine now. Just added an electric fuel pump. Whats the best route for the positive wire. Ive run the ground into the boot where I can break it with a switch for security purposed. Im thinking of running the wire inside the car there are well placed holes to push it through. Its probably fairly safe under the underfelt and carpets. Presumably it goes to an ignition on positive. It also needs a inertia switch if theres an accident so presumably that goes in line in the positive. I found on the forum a modern BMW one that should do the trick that goes on the bulkhead.

#17 Tonylamb

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 10:17 PM

Can you also connect the pump to the oil pressure switch? I’ve read you can but don’t know how to do it. This would switch off the pump if the engine stopped but the ignition was still switched on? An idea of how to do that would be brilliant?

#18 paulrockliffe

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 09:24 AM

Again from memory, there should be a little loop of wire at the back of the stalk that takes power to the main beam flash from the power supply to the horn.

Start at the back of the flash switch and see if you can trace a wire back to a fuse.

I doubt this would cause you a practical issue, but if your car didn't come with a fog light and you fit one now, it should technically be to current standards. Fitting it under the bumper would be too low.

#19 Northernpower

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 01:55 PM

Can you also connect the pump to the oil pressure switch? Ive read you can but dont know how to do it. This would switch off the pump if the engine stopped but the ignition was still switched on? An idea of how to do that would be brilliant?

How would you start it with no oil pressure, therefore, no fuel pump?

#20 Tonylamb

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 04:18 PM

LOL that’s a very good question. I meant the ignition warning light loop. I read somewhere that you should wire the pump into the ignition loop so that if you have a shunt and the ignition is still on at the switch it turns off the pump when the motor stops. However I think the inertia switch does that job. So I was probably overkilling

#21 Northernpower

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 04:34 PM

An inertia switch will be fine.



#22 Tonylamb

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 11:23 AM

Couple of final wiring questions. I’ve looked at the wiring diagrams in the Haynes but that doesn’t help. I have an Aldon distributor but want to know if i need a ballasted coil, I don’t think so just a standard coil. But the wiring in the car is confusing. Previous areas on here led me to believe that its the black and white and white wire that goes to the coil. A pink wire would be for the ballast resisted system. Trouble is if you look at the attached picture you will see that I have black and white, white, Pink, yellow etc. The brown ones go to the alternator and I think the blue and green is for fog lights? Theres also a white and light brown wire? Any clues would be most appreciated

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#23 Tonylamb

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 11:25 AM

The other issue is the starter motor. I bought a new motor from mini spares but it has the solenoid etc on the motor. My car however has been wired with a seperate solenoid? Should I bypass the solenoid and remove it all? Or do I have the wrong starter? Again expert thoughts much appreciated.

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#24 Bat

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 03:20 PM

Hi,

The starter needs to match the ring gear on the flywheel. Which starter did you take off?

I'm concerned about how close the battery cable terminal is to the metal part underneath the solenoid.

Cheers  :proud:



#25 Bat

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 03:25 PM

Couple of final wiring questions. I’ve looked at the wiring diagrams in the Haynes but that doesn’t help. I have an Aldon distributor but want to know if i need a ballasted coil, I don’t think so just a standard coil. But the wiring in the car is confusing. Previous areas on here led me to believe that its the black and white and white wire that goes to the coil. A pink wire would be for the ballast resisted system. Trouble is if you look at the attached picture you will see that I have black and white, white, Pink, yellow etc. The brown ones go to the alternator and I think the blue and green is for fog lights? Theres also a white and light brown wire? Any clues would be most appreciated

Hi,

I'd use a standard coil and ignore the pink wire.

White - coil positive

White/black - coil negative and distributor

Green/blue - temperature sender

White/brown - oil pressure switch

Big plug - alternator

Cheers  :proud:



#26 poohbah

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 03:35 PM

Isn’t the pink wire the horn?

#27 poohbah

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 04:01 PM

Isn’t the pink wire the horn?


Ignore that, sorry. I’ve just seen the yellow with it.

#28 Bat

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 04:26 PM

Hi,

Purple for the horn, can't remember the tracer colour though...

Cheers  :proud:



#29 Tonylamb

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 09:19 PM

The other issue is the starter motor. I bought a new motor from mini spares but it has the solenoid etc on the motor. My car however has been wired with a seperate solenoid? Should I bypass the solenoid and remove it all? Or do I have the wrong starter? Again expert thoughts much appreciated.

#30 Tonylamb

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 09:27 PM

The engine didn’t come with a starter motor. Its an A + engine with a non verto clutch. I’m worried I have the wrong starter and it will damage the ring gear? Should I have one that doesn’t have a solenoid as I already have the solenoid on the side of the engine bay?

Re the wiring thanks for the advice much appreciated




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