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Front Wing To Scuttle Fit


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#1 superchiwawa

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 12:38 AM

Hi all,

 

What's the correct way to join up the outter wing to scuttle seam, without any cracking, water leak, or rusting further down the line? 

 

The replacement panel we fitted over a decade ago (I think it was heritage) had a large gap between the scuttle (radius mismatch) which I filled up with filler and obvisouly cracked, I'm doing a full rebuild and want to do it properly this time.

 

I've seen some line up properly but is a common place for tin worm, since in time the paint can crack up and they aren't seam welded.

 

On a superbly restored clubman at MITP with a removable front, the wing was just lined up perfectly but not fixed - was super impressed by the skills there...

 

So what's you're take if you want it done properly and looking real nice without having to fix it up every 2 years?

 

Thanks!

 

S.



#2 sonikk4

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 12:48 AM

From the factory i believe nothing but the gap should still be tight. The rear of the wing should be welded to the scuttle (on the underside.)

 

Also to help prevent flexing there should be a small angled bracket that fits at the juncture of the wing to A panel right on the arch return.

 

Now as to adding something in the gap, my preferred method is to fully ensure there is epoxy primer forced into the gap. Then underneath its seam sealed and in the actual gap i force sealant into there as well. My choice of sealant as i am in the industry is Pro Seal PS870B2. This is an anti corrosion sealant we use in the aviation industry. High and low temperature range and does not crack. Then topcoat on the outside of the car and stonechip followed by topcoat on the underside. 



#3 imack

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 06:29 AM

I've always used 3M body caulking in all the wing to scuttle and wing to front panel seams. This remains flexible and can be over painted. Also use it at the top of the vertical seam finishers, between finisher and roof gutter.
I thing all cars prior to around 76/rubber mounted subframes were like this, later cars didn't get sealed joints if I remember rightly.

Edited by imack, 16 January 2018 - 06:31 AM.


#4 Steve220

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 08:49 AM

I've always used 3M body caulking in all the wing to scuttle and wing to front panel seams. This remains flexible and can be over painted. Also use it at the top of the vertical seam finishers, between finisher and roof gutter.
I thing all cars prior to around 76/rubber mounted subframes were like this, later cars didn't get sealed joints if I remember rightly.


The caulk maybe flexible, but the paint wont take expanding and contracting too many times. On mine the gap was set then seam welded underneath and filled with zinc rich primer that was then forced through with an air line, the underside is then seam sealed.

#5 Van13

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 11:42 AM

As sonic I used same sealant but now I braze bit of work but works excellently first one I did 6 yrs ago no problems

#6 superchiwawa

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Posted 18 January 2018 - 11:22 AM

Sweet thanks guys, I knew there had to be something out there better than just clamp and weld!

 

I like the brazing idea too, just wondering if there's any risk of reaction when painting (different substrates)...



#7 Van13

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Posted 18 January 2018 - 12:31 PM

Sweet thanks guys, I knew there had to be something out there better than just clamp and weld!
 
I like the brazing idea too, just wondering if there's any risk of reaction when painting (different substrates)...

like I say no problems as yet

#8 jamesquintin

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 09:30 AM

I'm doing this on mine right now.

When i had the front end replaced about 5 years ago (it was bodged at the front which is why i'm doing it again) there was a 2/3mm gap and very little paint in there. what surprised me most was that when I took it apart, there was hardly any rust. I think as long as any water can run away down the inside of the wheel arch and not settle, then rust shouldn't be a problem (otherwise our roof rails would all be rusty)

ie9cRb9.jpg



#9 SolarB

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Posted 25 January 2018 - 04:43 PM

I left a gap and the water simply runs through and out.

Primer and topcoat was applied with a paint brush into the gap, than any brush marks on the outer surfaces cut back before the re-spray.

After final painting I flodded the gap with a Dinatrol product (forget which one) and let it drain out.

5 years on and it is still good.



#10 superchiwawa

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 06:19 PM

Hmmm fight or flight, who can say which lasts the longest? :-P

 

The Dinatrol stuff you used is like Waxoil right? I know they have a bunch of rust proofing products with a solid reputation...



#11 sonikk4

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 09:14 PM

Hmmm fight or flight, who can say which lasts the longest? :-P

 

The Dinatrol stuff you used is like Waxoil right? I know they have a bunch of rust proofing products with a solid reputation...

 

Its a very good product which we use in civil aviation. I would recommend it.



#12 bartman

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 09:26 PM

 

Hmmm fight or flight, who can say which lasts the longest? :-P

 

The Dinatrol stuff you used is like Waxoil right? I know they have a bunch of rust proofing products with a solid reputation...

 

Its a very good product which we use in civil aviation. I would recommend it.

 

 

 

 

 

is this a PPG product? is it like prc? cheers

 


Edited by bartman, 26 January 2018 - 09:27 PM.


#13 sonikk4

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 09:29 PM

 

 

Hmmm fight or flight, who can say which lasts the longest? :-P

 

The Dinatrol stuff you used is like Waxoil right? I know they have a bunch of rust proofing products with a solid reputation...

 

Its a very good product which we use in civil aviation. I would recommend it.

 

 

 

 

 

is this a PPG product? is it like prc? cheers

 

 

https://www.dinitrol...l-where-to-buy/

 

And no PRC is a sealant.



#14 bartman

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 09:31 PM

 

 

 

Hmmm fight or flight, who can say which lasts the longest? :-P

 

The Dinatrol stuff you used is like Waxoil right? I know they have a bunch of rust proofing products with a solid reputation...

 

Its a very good product which we use in civil aviation. I would recommend it.

 

 

 

 

 

is this a PPG product? is it like prc? cheers

 

 

https://www.dinitrol...l-where-to-buy/

 

And no PRC is a sealant.

 

dont suppose you have an NSN for it by any chance

 



#15 sonikk4

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 09:54 PM

 

 

 

 

Hmmm fight or flight, who can say which lasts the longest? :-P

 

The Dinatrol stuff you used is like Waxoil right? I know they have a bunch of rust proofing products with a solid reputation...

 

Its a very good product which we use in civil aviation. I would recommend it.

 

 

 

 

 

is this a PPG product? is it like prc? cheers

 

 

https://www.dinitrol...l-where-to-buy/

 

And no PRC is a sealant.

 

dont suppose you have an NSN for it by any chance

 

 

 

Not at home i don't. i'm not back in until mon.






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