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Help With Heater Hose Correct Setup? - Metro Engine In 1983 Mini

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#1 jezjsa

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 09:27 PM

Hi.
Hope someone can help me figure this out... so I have just bought a 1983 998cc mini. It seems to have a metro engine. Plate says 99HD27.

The problem is the heater doesnt heat up, this Im assuming is down to the way the heater hoses are currently setup, see attached photo. Both heater hoses go into the bottom radiator hose.

Also, there is no hole on the left hand side of the cylinder head, where most have the heater tap.

Does it simply need a thermostat sandwich plate, and then one of the hoses going to that... if so which hose, into heater or leaving heater....or do I need to do something else?

Ive seen some posts about drilling the hole out in the cylinder head but I dont want to do that if not needed.

Any help would be great...

Attached Files


Edited by jezjsa, 16 January 2018 - 10:02 PM.


#2 KTS

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 10:02 PM

Using the take off from a sandwich plate should get hot water to the heater matrix, but it would be permanently on without some kind of tap

#3 jezjsa

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 10:07 PM

Thanks for the reply KTS.... So something like an in-line heater tap, like this from MiniSpares...

http://www.minispare...c/JJB10011.aspx

Would that work?

#4 nicklouse

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 12:22 AM

i would drill out the the head and fit the tap.then you dont need to worry about changing/making new rad brackets ETC.



#5 Cooper Mac

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 12:17 PM

If both heater hoses go into the bottom hose of the rad, you won't get any circulation through the heater matrix. You need to have the hoses connected to create a flow of water, otherwise you are only relying on natural convection of the water, which will take hours to get the heater luke warm!



#6 Ethel

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 01:45 PM

Either route, sandwich or valve on head, has been standard on Minis at some point. One thing to note is that earlier cars use 1/2" hose while the remote valve setup is 5/8". Not difficult to join the two, but worth knowing.



#7 jezjsa

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 04:01 PM

thanks for all the advice, really helpful. Will have to check hose size as mentioned.

 

Has anyone any advice re drilling a hole in the cylinder head, im assuming i need to remove the head first if i go down that route... surely?



#8 nicklouse

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 04:07 PM

thanks for all the advice, really helpful. Will have to check hose size as mentioned.

 

Has anyone any advice re drilling a hole in the cylinder head, im assuming i need to remove the head first if i go down that route... surely?

if careful you could do it on the car. but first check there are the two threaded holes to mount the takeoff.



#9 cal844

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 07:14 PM

i would drill out the the head and fit the tap.then you dont need to worry about changing/making new rad brackets ETC.


Personally I don't trust the valves, the seller can say they have the best non exploding units but I've fitted a DSN retrosport take off in place of the valve

#10 Ethel

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Posted 18 January 2018 - 01:34 AM

Drilling the head on the car is certainly doable. Access is as good  as off the car to remove any swarf. Just clear the drilling regularly until you break through. You could then pump a bit of grease through the hole to catch any more where it can be lifted with a magnet, vac'ed or flushed (hosepipe up the existing heater hose). Also, as Nick says, sort the stud holes first. You might need a 1/4 unf  bottoming tap, possibly a full set.



#11 cal844

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Posted 18 January 2018 - 11:30 AM

Drilling the head on the car is certainly doable. Access is as good  as off the car to remove any swarf. Just clear the drilling regularly until you break through. You could then pump a bit of grease through the hole to catch any more where it can be lifted with a magnet, vac'ed or flushed (hosepipe up the existing heater hose). Also, as Nick says, sort the stud holes first. You might need a 1/4 unf  bottoming tap, possibly a full set.


Holes for the studs should be pre drilled and tapped.(they are on my 1989 and 1993 engines)

#12 Ethel

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Posted 18 January 2018 - 12:06 PM

...but if they've sat for 20+ years. Just wouldn't want to make a hole in to the water jacket and then discover I couldn't cap it.



#13 cal844

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Posted 18 January 2018 - 08:31 PM

It can be capped there are Lanka plates available

#14 JonC

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 04:50 PM

Is there advantage in the later separate tap? Why did rover change? I'm thinking of putting the tap back in the original position on the head. I just think the later type looks a bit untidy.

#15 jezjsa

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 09:42 PM

Ok so I’ve ordered from minispares.com the thermostat sandwich plate, an in-line value, the relevant hose adaptors, gaskets, hoses, etc.

My question is, does the hose from the new sandwich plate need to go to the top of the heater or the bottom?

Again, this is a 1983 mini, with an A+ 998 metro engine, where the hoses (when engine was fitted by previous owner) were not set up for heat to ever work... see original image at beginning of the post.

Thanks in advance guys.





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