99 replies to this topic

[mini13]

dont scrimp on knuckle joints, Ive used cheap ones in the past and the boots just wouldnt stay put poped off as soon as it cam off the jack..., ended up binning them for genuine ones before the car ever saw the road...

 

 

also sports packs have a different ( longer to increas height) knuckle, thats the expensive one.... I would look at fitting the std one and hi lows.

 

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

 

 

also while its apart, i would look at fitting new cones, as they do deteriorate, again genuine ( or red dots  ) is the way to go.

[M700FGT]

The Delphi ones will be fine, and the miniport ones with the thicker shaft are for there own brand high-lows.

 

http://www.theminifo...urs-last/page-2

 

Thanks for the assist, just read you thread and Delphi would seem like the way to golf i want them to last a while. Seems like this part is a pain for everyone! 

 

Just checked the online Catalogue for Delphi, and you are right that the TC30 show as correct - just cant work out why they have one size if the original ones were lengthened. 

 

Not looking to fit high-lows or anything special yet, so will get a set of these and some new cones ordered and see how i get on. 

 

Just really need to work out what t do about the wheels next. 

[nicklouse]

just fit them as they are.

 

you have lost the death traps so you will be fine.

[M700FGT]

just fit them as they are.

 

you have lost the death traps so you will be fine.

But i still need two tyres now, another two shortly after and the original wheels are curbed and scratched to pieces - for that cost, i might as well just replace the lot 

[nicklouse]

may be but the wheels will most likely be of a lesser quality.

 

if you are keeping the arches then i would keep the same spec wheels.

 

they would also be the very last thing i would change as when you have done what ever you are going to do you can then settle on the current ones and see in which way you want to go and it is easy to shim up the wheels for different ETs if you are going to change.

[CityEPete]

I'd get them refurbed and 4 new yokos, it will look smart and retain the most value.

[carthorse]

Your on a dangerous road now - whenever you start taking the suspension apart like this ‘mission creep’ can set in and you end up replacing or upgrading everything in sight. If your changing the rubber cones the front suspension top arm really has to come out so you might as well fit hi-lows while it’s apart as it makes setting the ride height so much easier and you can compensate for the settling the new cone will go through in the first few months after fitting. Hi-lows also make the question of if you need the later sports pack spec knuckles with the built in spacer a non issue. As others have said original spec cone are a must, the updated red dot cones from minispares are excellent but that’s the ‘mission creep’ problem again.........

[Sprocket]

The Rover Sportspack wheel width and offset was a best comprimise between looks and steering geometry and in my opinion, is as good as it gets with a 6X13" wheel.

 

Tyre wise for the 13" wheels there are only really two choices of tyres these days and both have rim protection sidewall. It is this sidewall that is responsible for the stiffness of the tyre, not necessarilly the 'low profile'. The rim protection makes the tyre stiffer. There did use to be a good selection of tyres without the rim protection such as the Bridgestone and Dunlop, but now there really only are the two left, Yokohama or Nankang, its a 50/50 choice and they are much of a muchness, though cost is a key factor. YOu can get the Nankangs really really cheap if you shop around rather than using the big name Mini suppliers, the Yokohama's are always going to be more expensive.

 

Rover designed the Sportspack wheel arch to cover the wheels appropriately, like any other car in on the road. The leading and trailing edges of the sportspack wheel arches taper off , with the widest 'overhang' at the top. The rear wheels benefit from a 3/8" spacer which is only 1/8"mm more than the 1/4" spacer fitted by the factory. The fronts are not really a problem.

As for suspension cones, having used the Minispares red spot cones and Minispares Hi-Lo trumpets, I won't recommend anything else.

One other thing to consider though is that with the sportspack, if lowering the car at all, it will cause the rear tyres to scrub on the wheel arch when cornering.

Edited by Sprocket, 23 January 2018 - 12:18 AM.

[M700FGT]

Well over the next week or two, all my parts should arrive. Got a fairly large order arriving tomorrow from Mini Sport. 

 

I decided for the time being, i just wanted to get rid of the modifications and get him sitting straight as he should. I did investigate all the suspension options including high-lows, but im just not ready for that yet. Lets face it, I've only driven him once and im already racking up a serious bill. 

 

Suspension wise I've got new cones, new shocks and new knuckles. Going to fit these and see how he sits. If the camber is still an issue (as i think it will be), i will replace the lower arms, as these may have already been replaced with negative camber arms. 

 

With regards to the wheels, i ordered a set of Mini Sport Sportspack wheels - 13" x 6 and Yoko tyres. I will swap them over and keep the originals with a view to refurb later on. I was interested in the wider Ultralites, but as with the suspension, i just wanted the car to ride as it should, until i get to know him and modify to my taste and driving style. 

[cal844]

So to recap the op needs to remove the spacers, fit new cones, knuckle joints and hilos all round(image n ideal situation).

Use the TC30 Delphi knuckle joints. I've just fitted these to my rear subframe and they'll also fit the front as the hole is the same