99 replies to this topic

[CityEPete]

It's registered as a mini Cooper so my guess is that the arches have been added. Personally I'd put it back to standard eventually.

[ukcooper]

well all ya have to do I'm thinking is put a set of 12" wheels on as all the component are the same as a normal mini sept for dampers be honest road use don't matter what ya use, ya probly swop ya 13" foe a set of 12 " and change the arches or cut the wings and keep the 13's template on mini sport /spares or get a mini garage do it , good luck your mini do what the hell ya wont to it...

Edited by ukcooper, 18 January 2018 - 02:43 PM.

[Itsaminithing]

It's registered as a mini Cooper so my guess is that the arches have been added. Personally I'd put it back to standard eventually.

 

Pete, as far as i'm aware they were all registered as 'Mini Cooper -2 door saloon' whichever option pack or accessories you chose.

I'm the second owner of a MPI with Sports Pack option & it's not even mentioned on any of the original documents or Bill of Sale.

http://www.roblightb...-documents.html

 

 

[MacGyver]

My 1997 mpi (12") had a limited rack from new...
Come to think of it, my Sportspack had the front wings rubbing because of collapsed front suspension and specially when reversing which made it worse as it bent the corner slightly.
It definitely looks 'down' on that front end...

[hhhh]

if something with the camber is wrong, check the suspension cones and knuckles.

Camber could only be affected by geometry of the control arms and the tie bars. The cones and knuckles couldn't have any influence.

[cal844]

if something with the camber is wrong, check the suspension cones and knuckles.

Camber could only be affected by geometry of the control arms and the tie bars. The cones and knuckles couldn't have any influence.

In the OPs image, the camber looks ok, having a collapsed cone or knuckle which has rubbed through will change camber and castor settings.

The OPs wheel looks forward in the arch, camber looks ok visually (or is that just me?)

[hhhh]

 

 

if something with the camber is wrong, check the suspension cones and knuckles.

Camber could only be affected by geometry of the control arms and the tie bars. The cones and knuckles couldn't have any influence.

In the OPs image, the camber looks ok, having a collapsed cone or knuckle which has rubbed through will change camber and castor settings.

The OPs wheel looks forward in the arch, camber looks ok visually (or is that just me?)

 

I agree, in the image, the camber looks about normal, but I'm unable to follow your argument on how the cone or knuckle could possibly affect camber and castor, except for the obvious in that instantaneous camber is always changing dynamically with suspension position. For a given suspension height, the only possible way to affect camber is to change the relative positioning of the ball joints, which is solely controlled by the upper control arm at the top and the lower control arm and tie bar at the bottom.

 

However, if the suspension has collapsed, obviously the at rest camber will change because that's how all automotive suspension is designed; is that what you mean?

Edited by hhhh, 18 January 2018 - 08:50 PM.

[ings]

 

 

 

if something with the camber is wrong, check the suspension cones and knuckles.

Camber could only be affected by geometry of the control arms and the tie bars. The cones and knuckles couldn't have any influence.

In the OPs image, the camber looks ok, having a collapsed cone or knuckle which has rubbed through will change camber and castor settings.

The OPs wheel looks forward in the arch, camber looks ok visually (or is that just me?)

 

I agree, in the image, the camber looks about normal, but I'm unable to follow your argument on how the cone or knuckle could possibly affect camber and castor, except for the obvious in that instantaneous camber is always changing dynamically with suspension position. For a given suspension height, the only possible way to affect camber is to change the relative positioning of the ball joints, which is solely controlled by the upper control arm at the top and the lower control arm and tie bar at the bottom.

 

However, if the suspension has collapsed, obviously the at rest camber will change because that's how all automotive suspension is designed; is that what you mean?

 

 

yes if something collapsed in suspenson it will have an effect on the whole suspension setup.

knuckles and cones wear out and fail with time.

There are people who drive with this kind of cones around:

 

 

[miniireland]

 

if something with the camber is wrong, check the suspension cones and knuckles.

Camber could only be affected by geometry of the control arms and the tie bars. The cones and knuckles couldn't have any influence.

 

i dont think so

[miniireland]

 

 

 

 

if something with the camber is wrong, check the suspension cones and knuckles.

Camber could only be affected by geometry of the control arms and the tie bars. The cones and knuckles couldn't have any influence.

In the OPs image, the camber looks ok, having a collapsed cone or knuckle which has rubbed through will change camber and castor settings.

The OPs wheel looks forward in the arch, camber looks ok visually (or is that just me?)

 

I agree, in the image, the camber looks about normal, but I'm unable to follow your argument on how the cone or knuckle could possibly affect camber and castor, except for the obvious in that instantaneous camber is always changing dynamically with suspension position. For a given suspension height, the only possible way to affect camber is to change the relative positioning of the ball joints, which is solely controlled by the upper control arm at the top and the lower control arm and tie bar at the bottom.

 

However, if the suspension has collapsed, obviously the at rest camber will change because that's how all automotive suspension is designed; is that what you mean?

 

 

yes if something collapsed in suspenson it will have an effect on the whole suspension setup.

knuckles and cones wear out and fail with time.

There are people who drive with this kind of cones around:

 

 

 

explained perfectly

[ings]

i had 5 Minis and all of them had nasty old cones.

So the first job is always to change the cones and knuckles.

 

This will reduce a lot of common problems.

[miniireland]

i had 5 Minis and all of them had nasty old cones.

So the first job is always to change the cones and knuckles.

 

This will reduce a lot of common problems.

i had an 87 mini many moons ago with 12 inch revolutions and it rubbed on the inner arches due to wrong profile tyres

[hhhh]

 

 

if something with the camber is wrong, check the suspension cones and knuckles.

Camber could only be affected by geometry of the control arms and the tie bars. The cones and knuckles couldn't have any influence.

 

i dont think so

 

Well don't hold back, let's hear how a mechanism that is geometrically the slave of its master could have any effect. Diagrams would be helpful. I maintain that you could take the cones and knuckles out and it won't affect the arc (i.e.: the changing instantaneous camber) that the wheel travels through from suspension fully compressed to fully extended.

 

The Mini design has nothing in common with the McPherson strut where damage to the suspension components would affect the geometry. It is more analogous to the more common upper and lower control arm configuration except for the unusual rubber mounted lower control arm that is entirely dependent on the tie bar for lower ball joint location. Just as taking the shock absorbers and springs out of a more conventional arrangement would have no affect on the steering geometry.

Edited by hhhh, 19 January 2018 - 01:31 PM.

[nicklouse]

 

 

 

if something with the camber is wrong, check the suspension cones and knuckles.

Camber could only be affected by geometry of the control arms and the tie bars. The cones and knuckles couldn't have any influence.

 

i dont think so

 

Well don't hold back, let's hear how a mechanism that is geometrically the slave of its master could have any effect. Diagrams would be helpful. I maintain that you could take the cones and knuckles out and it won't affect the arc (i.e.: the changing instantaneous camber) that the wheel travels through from suspension fully compressed to fully extended.

 

try it and see the difference.

 

raising or lowering the ride height has big effects on the camber. it is part of the nature of having a non parallel unequal length wishbone design.

[miniireland]

 

 

 

if something with the camber is wrong, check the suspension cones and knuckles.

Camber could only be affected by geometry of the control arms and the tie bars. The cones and knuckles couldn't have any influence.

 

i dont think so

 

Well don't hold back, let's hear how a mechanism that is geometrically the slave of its master could have any effect. Diagrams would be helpful. I maintain that you could take the cones and knuckles out and it won't affect the arc (i.e.: the changing instantaneous camber) that the wheel travels through from suspension fully compressed to fully extended.

 

try it and see the difference.

 

raising or lowering the ride height has big effects on the camber. it is part of the nature of having a non parallel unequal length wishbone design.

 

i didnt want to sound like a smart anus with my reply but you have put it so elequently i'll just nod and smile 

Edited by miniireland, 19 January 2018 - 01:45 PM.