15 replies to this topic

[Biggles1957]

So.....I've just got myself a Riley Elf to put back together.  I shall be using it as my daily runabout and for going to events etc.  I shall be keeping it on it's 10" wheels and generally pretty standard - just a few improvements to make it a bit more user friendly - like newer seats (I'm not as young as I used to be when I had my first one in 1976!).

 

What do people think about putting discs on the front?  It's a 1968 car so has twin leading shoes and whilst I thought that was fine back in the 1970's I'm wondering if discs might be good idea in modern traffic - where a lot of people have no idea whatsoever how to drive and just totally rely on the car to do things for them!  You know what I mean....

 

I won't be hurtling around (not with 38bhp on tap anyway!) but would be grateful to hear what everyone thinks.

Thanks - advice and experience welcomed!

[sledgehammer]

you will need disks suited to 10 inch wheels , but can't see a problem

 

also drive shaft / cv's as well as hub / flange etc

 

I wonder if the master cyl will be ok thou , due to more fluid displaced ?

 

keep the old set up in a box for safe keeping

 

your car - do what you want - especially if safer

Edited by sledgehammer, 21 January 2018 - 03:33 PM.

[Cooperman]

If you fit the 7.5" 'S' discs you will need different 10" wheels due to the face of the hub being around 1" further outboard. A 4.5" S wheel will be needed and then you will need S rear drums with the built-in spacers so that the same wheels will fit front & back. Ideally the 7.5" discs need a remote servo and a master cylinder with greater volume.
An alternative is 7" Cooper discs as they are easy to fit and don't require different wheels or spacered rear drums.

[Biggles1957]

Ah.. many thanks for this info Cooperman.  Sounds like it's a bit more complicated than I thought! Hmmmm.....

[nicklouse]

also drive shaft / cv's as well as hub / flange etc

use the same drive shaft. just change the outer CV to suit the S discs.

[absx2]

Your standard 3.5" rims sit in a little anyway so the 3/4" track increase per side will not be an issue amd the rear drums and wheels will be unaltered so no issues there.

 

I have used twin leading drums on my daily drive for about 12 years and i don`t often find them an issue unless pushing the car really hard during slingshot maneuvers, 38 bhp when it was new so it needs a run up when overtaking :)

I can easily lock the front wheels at 40 mph and they have more bite and feel than my currently non servoed estate on 7.5" discs below 40 mph. I changed the estate to discs due to loads i carry.  

You can see how you go with a set of 7.5" S brakes and add the servo if you find the pedal too hard. As nicklouse has said, just change the outer CV and away you go.

 

Edit. being a Riley Elf you should have the full wheel trim wheels that will just clear the brake calipers and if memory serves me right the later small trim wheels just catch but I might have that the wrong way around so check first as I have reverse rims fitted now.

 

Just had a look on the mk1 forum titled  Cooper wheels and hubcaps and it would seem that the later 3.5" wheels fit rather than the full wheel trim wheels...its worth a read.

Edited by absx2, 21 January 2018 - 05:48 PM.

[Spider]

The Twin Leading Shoe Drums are actually pretty good brakes, except perhaps on long stops at high speeds - even then, they are OK.

 

The only thing with Drums is the maintenance they need, fairly regular adjustment and it seems every 3 - 5 years or so, cylinder replacements.

 

Given what your car is, I wouldn't be too quick to swap to discs.

[SolarB]

I'd be enclined to stay with the drums. Shoe adjustment takes 5 minutes with a trolley jack and a couple of stands.

[hhhh]

7" discs are supposed to worse than TLS drums. Drums aren't that bad, except for the increased maintenance.

[Cooperman]

7" discs are supposed to worse than TLS drums. Drums aren't that bad, except for the increased maintenance.

 

That is a myth.

In the early days of the 998 Cooper (1964 & 1965) I rallied mine seriously with the 7" brakes and with Girling Amber brake fluid and Ferodo DS11 pads they were fine. Another big advantage was not having to adjust the front brakes a couple of times per rally. Yes, they got a bit hot, but it was no problem really. 

[hhhh]

But for road use, don't the rally pads need a bit of working to come up to temp and function normally?

[Vinay-RS]

I was also advised to fit the smaller 1/2" rear slave cylinders to the rear to reduce the risk of the rear wheels locking up.

Edited by Vinay-RS, 23 January 2018 - 07:35 PM.

[Cooperman]

But for road use, don't the rally pads need a bit of working to come up to temp and function normally?

 

The old DS11 pads needed a bit of temperature to work OK,but modern comp pads like the Mintex range (M1144, 1155, 1166 and 1177), the Ferodo 2500 and 3000 range and the carbon-metallic pads work well from virtually cold. I use carbon-Metallic pads from Mini Spares in my Cooper 'S' and they are simply fantastic. There is no fade even when the discs are literally glowing red hot. 

I am probably going to use the 7" Cooper discs in the 1964 Mk.1 850 which I am currently restoring. I expect it to have c.40 bhp as I'm not doing much to the engine, but the disc brakes will remove the need for frequent adjustment of the drums. It will still look original as I wil be able to use the 3.5" x 10" wheels from the 850 without them sticking out or looking odd.

[timmy850]

Ive got the twin cylinder drums on my car. They work very well when adjusted properly and Ive never had any issues, even on the long mountain pass near me

They lock up the front wheels no problem, after one hard emergency stop you probably need to stop and chill on the side of the road anyway!

[Midas Mk1]

Have no doubt, fit the best brakes you can afford imo. Same with tyres.

 

Remember, its others actions aswell, not just your driving. Modern drivers dont appreciate classic car brakes..