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How Can I Improve A Very Poor Spray Can Paint Job?


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#16 TheFabMini

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 10:06 PM

its kind of tricky to capture the paint defects on camera as i always think the photos look better than the reality but here are a few!
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#17 TheFabMini

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 10:22 PM

 

I was going to follow this chaps process, ive watched a few of his videos and he has a very OCD perfectionist approach to things.. I am from norfolk and we have a bit of a 'that will do' but i think i have the patients to try and do a good job 



#18 sonikk4

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 05:36 AM

You will need to be careful there as there are quite a few runs. Attack these first to get them down to the same level as the surrounding paint.

 

Also be very careful where the r/h wing meets the front panel, that looks weird there although it may just be the angle.



#19 Ben_O

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 08:29 AM

Personally, I would try to polish most of that without flatting and see what you end up with



#20 TheFabMini

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 10:17 AM

Personally, I would try to polish most of that without flatting and see what you end up with


Sounds good to me! Ive got some meguiars compound and polish somewhere in the garage, just need to invest in a machine polisher as I think it would kill me doing by hand

#21 Ben_O

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 11:24 AM

Remember with the machine polisher to keep the sponge head damp at all times.

If you let it dry out too much, it will scorch the paint



#22 TheFabMini

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 11:41 AM

Remember with the machine polisher to keep the sponge head damp at all times.
If you let it dry out too much, it will scorch the paint


Thanks, will upload some photos of the progress next week! Fingers crossed we get some shine

#23 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 01:11 PM

Flat the colour as best you can, then clear lacquer it,,  gives time for you to use it, and concentrate at what you can do in a years time or so

 

Least you can use it and not look half bad



#24 TheFabMini

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 03:31 PM

just been outside and had a bit of a go on one of the runs with some 2000 wet. im starting to get multiple tones of yellow... is this normal?? sorry if this is a dumb question but I wanted to check before continuing..

 

out of curiosity if I give the paint a good going over with the polisher and im still not happy with the results would plan B of applying clear coat work to give me something else to attack? 

im not sure to what extent the previous owner did the respray of the bottom half of the car, did he just spray the colour on top of the original paint and that why im getting a different tone of yellow pop through as I was assuming if i sanded too far id hit primer if I went too far.

 

thanks again

 

 

 

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#25 richmondclassicsnorthwales

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 03:45 PM

if you polish the car, and you are not happy with the shine, you will have to take the polish off before clear lacquer



#26 TheFabMini

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 05:25 PM

if you polish the car, and you are not happy with the shine, you will have to take the polish off before clear lacquer


Wax and grease remover or would the paint need another going over with 2000 grit to rough it up again.

Im assuming clear coat is a bit like paint and needs the surface to be lightly sanded so it has something to adhere to?

#27 Ben_O

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 06:41 PM

The different tones look to be where you have gloss still around the runs and then flatted paint around that.

 

The paint tone always looks different when it's flatted like on the bonnet pic I posted yesterday.

 

I would only recommend clearcoating the paint if it is even and you haven't started to break through the paint in places otherwise it won't look any better.

 

If you are going to end up clearcoating it after having a go at polishing, then I would say not to flat it with 2000 in preparation.

 

Instead use a grey scotchbrite https://www.amazon.c...ey scotch brite and some prep/blend paste https://www.schollco...atting_compound

 

To use these, wet the scotchbrite in a bucket of water, apply paste to the scotchbrite and then scrub the paintwork like you are washing the car all over and then wipe clean with a wet chamois and then dry.

Nice quick through and easy way of prepping the paint without the risk of breaking through



#28 TheFabMini

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 08:02 PM

The different tones look to be where you have gloss still around the runs and then flatted paint around that.

 

The paint tone always looks different when it's flatted like on the bonnet pic I posted yesterday.

 

I would only recommend clearcoating the paint if it is even and you haven't started to break through the paint in places otherwise it won't look any better.

 

If you are going to end up clearcoating it after having a go at polishing, then I would say not to flat it with 2000 in preparation.

 

Instead use a grey scotchbrite https://www.amazon.c...ey scotch brite and some prep/blend paste https://www.schollco...atting_compound

 

To use these, wet the scotchbrite in a bucket of water, apply paste to the scotchbrite and then scrub the paintwork like you are washing the car all over and then wipe clean with a wet chamois and then dry.

Nice quick through and easy way of prepping the paint without the risk of breaking through

 

thanks again for your advice, I will order a few bits and bobs ready for next week and start trying to make some sort of acceptable finish out of the paint! so just to confirm my 'to do' list.

 

scuff pads with some of that prep/blend stuff and effectively wash the entire car leaving it a bit dull and scratched then give it a good dry.

use some cutting compound then polish.. see what sort of finish that achieves.

if still a bit chalky and horrible give it another clean, mask everything up and figure out how to apply clear coat

 

does this sound remotely logical? 



#29 Ben_O

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 08:53 PM

 

The different tones look to be where you have gloss still around the runs and then flatted paint around that.

 

The paint tone always looks different when it's flatted like on the bonnet pic I posted yesterday.

 

I would only recommend clearcoating the paint if it is even and you haven't started to break through the paint in places otherwise it won't look any better.

 

If you are going to end up clearcoating it after having a go at polishing, then I would say not to flat it with 2000 in preparation.

 

Instead use a grey scotchbrite https://www.amazon.c...ey scotch brite and some prep/blend paste https://www.schollco...atting_compound

 

To use these, wet the scotchbrite in a bucket of water, apply paste to the scotchbrite and then scrub the paintwork like you are washing the car all over and then wipe clean with a wet chamois and then dry.

Nice quick through and easy way of prepping the paint without the risk of breaking through

 

thanks again for your advice, I will order a few bits and bobs ready for next week and start trying to make some sort of acceptable finish out of the paint! so just to confirm my 'to do' list.

 

scuff pads with some of that prep/blend stuff and effectively wash the entire car leaving it a bit dull and scratched then give it a good dry.

use some cutting compound then polish.. see what sort of finish that achieves.

if still a bit chalky and horrible give it another clean, mask everything up and figure out how to apply clear coat

 

does this sound remotely logical? 

 

Not quite.

The prep/blend paste is to prep the paint in preparation for a clearcoat instead of sanding if you decide to do that.

 

You could use the prep blend paste prior to polishing but this is only really going to remove ground in dirt from the paint so not really worth it.

 

I would try polishing the paint without flatting and see how it comes up. Worse areas can be wet flatted with 2000 prior to polishing to remove the worst of the imperfections.

 

I do still maintain that clearcoating won't be worth the effort and has the potential to make it worse especially if you plan to do it with rattle cans which are expensive and difficult to achieve a nice finish especially over larger areas.

Not only that but there is the high chance of reactions which will ruin what you have even if it is currently quite poor



#30 TheFabMini

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Posted 28 February 2018 - 09:08 PM

Not quite.

 

 

 

The prep/blend paste is to prep the paint in preparation for a clearcoat instead of sanding if you decide to do that.

 

You could use the prep blend paste prior to polishing but this is only really going to remove ground in dirt from the paint so not really worth it.

 

I would try polishing the paint without flatting and see how it comes up. Worse areas can be wet flatted with 2000 prior to polishing to remove the worst of the imperfections.

 

I do still maintain that clearcoating won't be worth the effort and has the potential to make it worse especially if you plan to do it with rattle cans which are expensive and difficult to achieve a nice finish especially over larger areas.

Not only that but there is the high chance of reactions which will ruin what you have even if it is currently quite poor

 

 

well i do have a 50l compressor and a gravity fed spray gun (cheap one that came with a kit of air tools) 

with the bit of research ive been doing I would be a bit worried about the clear reacting as ive been flicking through other car forums and read stories of different brands of paint/clear causing a paint stripper effect which wouldnt be fun!

well ive ordered a dual action polisher, the bonnet is going to be my guinea pig so ill see how the paint comes up on that and work from there.

in the back of my head im thinking that once im in the mini driving round some country lanes I wont give a damn how shiney the outside is as long as the oily parts keep working






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